all my cars get Mobil 1, doesn't matter what they got under the hood! its the best in my book.

 

well here is some good info i think:

i have a friend that is a lubrication specialist and he tests all these oils for a living. the oils go by classes, class 5 is best than 4, 3 and so on.

the best oil out there is Amsoil, it's great stuff. a class 5 oil.

mobil 1, pennzoil, valvoline synthetic oil are all class 4 oils, and are very good.

even though im using it right now Castrol syntec is the worst synthetic you can buy, it's a class 3 (for synthetic oil, that's bad) it's not a true synthetic, they put an additive in to be able to call it "synthetic"

as for the weight, the best lubrication this guy has found is 10w30 is best, but since it's getting colder for us northerners go with 5w30 (next best thing), and never use what they say with the 5w20 that stuff is like water.

so i hope that info helps, and a good choice for oil filters, was posted not to long ago, Napa, Motorcraft, Pure One. if i remember correctly fram and pennzoil you need to stay away from.

hope this helps.

 

I run Amsoil in the Lightning, and one day, whenI hit the Lottery,
Iam putting Amsoil in the LTD

 

I think changing the oil often, like every 3,000 miles is the most important factor. My L is not as hard on oil as other cars I have had. Most late modle cars I have had tend to burn the oil somewhat that you can smell when you change it. I used Syntech in an old SHO I had for that reason, it really burnt regular oil. The L is not like that so I have been using regular 5-30 Valvoline.

 

I use Mobil-1 now, but I'm swithing to Amsoil next change. I did lot's of reading on it and Amsoil is the best or better than Mobil/Exxon. I read some things about them and I won't buy their products knowingly.

 

I can't say I've EVER bought anything except Mobil1 5W-30. However, here is the deal:

A synthetic oil is designed so that it does not break down like a conventional oil. Sure, there's less friction, etc, but none of us will probably ever see a difference, because we just CARE too much.

However, you can TECHNICALLY run a synthetic oil forever, with NO oil changes - just a change of filter. (obviously, unless your vehicle is having other issues...) As long as the oil filter is doing its job, the synthetic will virtually last forever.

I just slapped a K&N 15,000 mile oil filter on my wife's car, and changed the oil. I don't plan on changing the oil again until next year. (obviously checking it often, though...)

On my wife's old '91 Camry, I changed the oil the day she got it, at 60,000 miles. Changed to Mobil1 and a K&N filter. NEVER changed the oil, just topped it off a couple of times over the 2 years that we had it. Ran perfect the day we traded it in, at 94,000. (Wouldn't do that AGAIN, but, I was lazy!!!)

Read the specs on the oil - there's a big difference, but it's mainly long-term. If you're going to trade your Lightning in in 2 years, who cares - but if you plan on keeping it a while, I'd use synthetic, just as extra insurance.

 

This has been debated hundreds of times...

I use Mobil 1. The experts at Walmart will install mobil 1 for like 32 bucks with a motorcraft oil filter... So I could spend 20 for a run of the mill oil change or another whopping 10 dollars and not have to worry if I go 3000 or 4000 miles between changes.
As hard as I run mine.. $10 is worth it.

Doug

 

I had a big oil usage problem, about 1 qt per 1500 miles. I switched to 15-30 mobil 1 and had 90% less oil consumption.
a year later I added the breather mod and have had no prblems for at least 1000 miles. cooler weather will mandate a lower viscosity for sure.

 

Unless you live in an exremly COLD area or you want extended drain intervals I personally see no use in Syn oil...

IF and only IF you change your oil EVERY 2500 to 3000 miles faithfully without failure then Dino oil will suffix... Use a high grade of dino oil and use the same brand every time ...

I run a 7.3 PSD Diesel and use Mobil Delvac 1200 super 15-40 and change every 3000 miles - this Diesel takes 15 quarts of oil every change so even with Dino oil it's an expense imagine if I ran Syn it would cost upwards of $80 every oil change so that would be $80 every two months or somewhere around $480 a year just in oil expense ... no thanks...

 

Motorcraft 5w-20 is a semi-synthetic and been using that for just a few times now. Seems fine.

I had bad experience with a solid lifter car that I used the original Mobil 1 in back int he mid 80's or so. When I went on business trips for a 1-3 weeks, then came back, when you started it, sounded like a bucket of bolts for the first few minutes. After 6 months or this and multiple periods of oil drain back, the cam had wear and I was having to readjust the lash. Switch to dyno oil, never touch the valves for another 70K miles.

Full Synth is good for every day driver, I stay away from it since the L sits all winter. I did pull the valve cover after a period of sitting and the overhead cam was bone dry. Maybe the new stuff is better but I'd rather not test it.

Have a good turkey day....

 

All of my cars have been drinking Royal Purple for years.

 

The L gets Mobil 1 5-30.

The helicopter gets Mobil Jet II.

 

Here is the main reason I will always use a synthetic oil(Royal Purple #11(5w20) Racing Oil--in my L):

Generally, a thin film of synthetic oil will remain on engine components for days after it was last run. Petroleum oils tend to drain back down to the oil pan very quickly, leaving no oil film to protect your engine at start-up. Many auto techs and backyard mechnics can attest to this after doing engine tear- downs. Those using synthetic oil generally will have a thin film of oil left on components even if the engine has been sitting for awhile.

It's certainly not impenetrable, and I wouldn't go draining your oil after installing 6 quarts of synthetic just to see if your engine still runs, but it does serve a purpose. Your engine should virtually NEVER see metal to metal contact, whether in hot or cold climates. That's something that a petroleum oil can't do.

In addition, because of the higher film strength and better lubricity characteristics of synthetic oils, they routinely perform better on standardized ASTM wear scar tests. This would indicate a higher level of engine protection and would certainly lead to fewer engine wear particles in an engine. Hence, fewer contaminants in the oil to necessitate changing it.

Excerpted from The Motor Oil Bible

Dan

 

Since my first oil change at 1,000 miles.

Mobil 1 5w30 Synthetic