You don't have to break off the studs. Buy a piece of wood thick enough to clear the studs, and large enough to make a base for the Tforms. Take a piece of cardboard and press it down over the studs to make a pattern (both sides). Drill out the holes for the studs, and countersink each hole for a washer and stock nut. Bolt the spacer down, and set the Tforms on top...mark the holes where they bolt down, and trace the outline of the Tforms. Remove the spacer, drill out a hole slightly smaller than the size bolt you want to hold the Tforms in. Hammer in some threaded sleeves from the bottom of the spacer. Trim and paint to desired color. Bolt down spacer. Bolt down Tforms. They will fit very snugly under the back trim unless you get carried away with the spacer thickness.

Oh, I almost forgot...The bottom of the truck isn't flat by any means. You'll have to either use a dremel to channel the spacer for the ridges, put washers under the spacer, or a combination of the two.

 

I'm not sure how deep the thunderform is but these subs need a little bit more depth than the 6000's. I couldnt find the mounting depth on the W3's (which is prolly what i'll go with), but the w6's were almost 7 inches compared to the 5 inch depth of the MTX. Anyone put a sub comparable to this size in the thunderform?

 

Mounting depth for JL Audio 10W3 = 5.8125"

I would suggest the W3s. W6 or higher will require a box that will be a tight fit behind the seats. My friend has two 10W6s with a generic box and I have 2 10W3 with a custom box and I think mine sounds way better. Much tighter. Its probably because his W6s are underpowered (500W when it should be 600W) and the box doesnt have the recommended internal volume but still..

 

O.K. now that i've scored a Thunderforms box [unloaded] What do you all recomend for a decent sub/amp combo.
I realize it's limited to the shallow depth the t-forms have.Just lookin' for the most "bang for the buck"!
I've seen JL audio 10'ers out here on sale for $95 ea.Don't know what model or if they will fit this enclosure?
Thanks for any input!-Dave.

 

... sorry, brain fart ...

 

Just got two 10W3v2's off ebay for $289! I'm excited...now all I need is that 250/1 amp and to decide weither i'm gonna try and put them in the Thunderform or get a custom box made; which I went and talked to a guy at custom sounds and said he could make a sweet box for them and an amp but it's not gonna be cheap. Just might try and make my own....who knows...can't be that hard...

 

Better speakers could be self installed for less than $250 but I am the WRONG guy to be giving out stereo advice...

I went to Earmark Car Audio and said I wanted to be able to run full throttle with the windows down and hear the classic rock of my choice... The Boston acoustic components and the Alpine v12 amp do that VERY well BUT I spent more than 2x your budget..
4 speakers, JL10" sub, amp and install with dynamat in doors and behind speakers.

It is univerally accepted the speakers are the weakest link in the chain... Start there and move along as your budget allows... Just pick stuff that will fit in the final complete plan...

Good Luck...
Doug

 

I have Infinity Kappa mids mounted in the factory door holes with tweeters mounted in the front upper door panel. Infinity Kappa C0-axials in the rear corners.....I have a 4x90 watt 2 ohm stable amp. It's a Boss amp I bought on ubid for $60.00 dollars..I line leveled the inputs ,run all the Kappas off the front side and bridged the other for the 4 ohm load of the MTX's in the Thunderform. Depending on the formula used I'm pushing 180 rms in to the MTX's and they sound very good. I did lose the ability to fade with the Kappas but hardly notice it. I ran them unfaded before the MTX's went in. The Thunderform I picked up from a Guy who had 4000 miles on his 2001 and sold it. I paid $150.00 for the Thunderform with the MTX 6000's in it. Before I ran a 10" powered Bazzoka tube. Major difference in sound quality. The Kappa's I got from Crutchfield on sale. I paid about $250.00 for all of them. I have been into Audiophile components for years. I did compromise in the truck due to budget constraints. But for the money I bet my system sounds as fine as the majority. Unless you're talkin' compotition grade sound. You can have great quality sound and spread the bucks around for performance and looks as well. All with the factory head unit and changer . Mounted the changer in the expedition console. I just sat the Thunderform in place and never had any problem with the utility box studs. If you aren't concerned with what the outside world hears....a well thought out system without pouring money into it can be had. A lot of folks will cop an Elitist attitude about components. If it sounds good to you and werks....Ain't that the point....

 

I recently had two 10" JL Audio W3's installed with an MTX Box in my Lightning powered by an eclipse 4 channel going to the bass and MB Quart mids and highs. The bass is decent. I need Dynamat though. I'm not sure if it's the trim pieces rattling, or the box itself. It's not too much to take, but I'd like do deaden the sound a bit. As for bass quality, the low deep bass is nice, the punchy bass is very good.

I have always used 12's in my vehicles, so getting used to 10's is going to take some time for me. I'm used to a deeper booming bass.

Having the subs directly behind my seat is something new too. I had a 99 Ranger with two 12" fosgate DVC's that boomed, but it was an extended cab.

Overall, I'm happy with the performance. I still have to tweak the EQ on the eclipse and see what sounds best.

I would recommend the MTX box simply due to space limitations. It's nice not to lose any seat spacing in a single cab truck.

If I had an SUV or extended cab / quad cab truck, I would have gone with W6's.

My .02.

- Jake

 

i don't know the internal mounting depth of the box, but the volume is 1.8 cubic feet. just make sure that that is within spec for the woofers you want to use. (~0.9 cu. ft. per woofer) above spec is ok, it will make the speaker work more effiecintly and go deeper, but you don't want to put a speaker in a box that is too small. don't forget to stuff it with some polyfill.

i am just building my own box. it is not the easisest box to build, but if you think it through, it is not that hard. plus i already had most of the equipment i am using from my last car, so i have to make it work in the truck. i have to finish up my box for my orion hcca 10" sub. last night i started my custom kick panels for my orion hcca 5s component setup. and have some 8" kickers for my doors. it is going to be cool, and the box should come out easily for track days (because it will end up weighting close to 100 lbs. when i am done!)

 

2 years later............

 

I started with a loaded T-form, and changed to the v2s. Much deeper sound! Way better. As for the amp, I haven't got it yet, but I've been told the JL 500/1 is the way to go.

 

Since the thunderform is a resin, does it make an inferior enclosure when compared to something out of 3/4" MDF?

 

i haven't seen one in person, but it has the possibility to flex, which in turn takes away sound quality and volume of output.

 

Not as strong a .75" MDF but still strong enough.