Slick,
Those two tabs that were on the inside front of the box are actually for some screw type leveling feet that come with the box. The two tabs that mount to the bottom rear of the box are loose in the bag when you get it. (I didn't have them on in those pictures)They are 'L' brackets and will extend out on either side of the box. The instructions talk about cutting 'U' shaped notches in the carpet under these L brackets so you could screw the box down to the floor and then flip the carpet back over the screws. Not for me, Thank you. I am going to figure something out with Velcro.

I'm not sure if coathangers will work for radio removal tools. My keys have little barbs on the end of each leg that secure to the flnage on either side of the radio. This allow you to grab on to the radio to pull it out. I got my keys when I bought a radio a while back from a local car stereo shop. I was installing it myself and the sales guy was cool enought to give me an extra set he had laying around. They have worked on every Ford I have owned thus far.

Eric

 

Thanks Eric
Let me know what you come up with as far as velcro goes I will probably do the same I dont want to cut the carpet either. I do have another ? sorry to be a pain in the azz Did you have to take the whole chasis out or can you reach the plugs to put in the new harness? I am figuring this is like a 1 -1.5 hr job

thanks again
Slick
I hope this helps this POS stock radio and speakers out

 

Thanks for the great writeup, Eric!

The measurements above are the important ones for me. The sub is nice, but the clincher for me was that the recess looks like a great place to mount gauges! Looks like a minimum of (3) 2 1/16" Autometers will mount in there -- maybe even five if I cut out the base some. Excellent! Oh yeah, and it makes noise too.

Thanks again,
TLS

 

Excellent, mine arrives on Wednesday!

 

Hey guys, got mine back in April I believe thru ebay, paid like $150 bucks for it.

You guys will love it for sure, I love mine and just to help the others with size and passenger questions, I have a 99 Lariat with bucket seats and a factory center console and there is about 1 and 1/2 inches between the console and the Clarion cabinet.

I have to admit, I plan to someday upgrade the stereo but for now I am very pleased and the bass is supplied by a sub and with the right music sounds like a pair of subs.

Showya

 

Slick,
This should only take you 15 to 20 minutes to get to a point where you could test run the sub. Just pop off the outer trim ring that is around your radio and AC controls. Then use your radio removal keys to pull the radio out. I know you mentioned earlier that you didn't have these keys. So it might take you a little longer if you have to rig something. I would suggest going to your local car stereo shop and asking if you could borrow or buy a set of keys from them. I think they are very useful tools to have around. I have probably loaned mine to 4 or 5 friends in the past when they were pulling a Ford factory radio.
And lastly all you need to do is disconnect the appropriate cable from the back of your radio and plug the adapter inline with it.
The adapter harness plugs into a harness that is suplied with the box.
Now you should be at a point where you can test the system out.
I ran out of time last night but I still need to go back and put my radio trim ring on and then correctly hide the wires and mount the box.

Hope this helps,
Eric

 

Sweet!!!!
I just made it to Senior Member with that last post.

 

Hey, thanks for the replies to all my questions.............very helpful. That's what this board is all about. The install looks great, and I'm sure once all of us get it installed, everyone will have some type of different use for that top panel...........

thx again,
JC

 

I was Told just to cut a coat hanger make a U shape and insert about incher or so Not to far hanger is thicker than right tool and radio should pop right out. I will see if it works when I get the unit probbaly end off the week. Then I will play also but if you come up with the good velcro set up let me know also if you play with the gain at all we will get this right I am sure
Eric Thanks Again
Slick

 

slick
cutting a wire hanger works just fine,
i did it a few times with them.

 

Heads up...make sure that you order the T-harness in addition to the box so you can hook it up. I ordered the box and it didn't automatically come with it, so I have to wait two more days and had to pay another $10 since I didn't order it at the same time.

 

Well, tonight after work I mounted the sub box.
I looked at it for awhile trying to figure how I could use velcro.
In the end I think I came up with something that's even easier.

On the inside edge of the bottom about 3/4" up from the bottom and 1/2" back from where it butts up to the dash I screwed in a 3/8" plastic conduit strap on either side. ( I used one of the provided needle point screws on either side) I then used a black tie wrap to pass through the conduit strap and then around the metal upright support on that side that is just behind the lower black plastic trim piece. I put a tie wrap on each side and pulled them up until the sub box was tight against the dash. It appears to work well and you can't see the tie wraps since they are secured to the inside edge of the box which hides them from the outside. I cut off the extra and pushed the connections up underneath the black plastic trim. I've got those two tie wraps so tight that it is compressing the foam all the way around. I didn't want a gap where something could fall behind it.

Sorry, I don't have the digital camera here tonight so I can't post any pics. Let me know if you have questions and I will try to explain it better. But if you pop the lower black plastic trim piece off you will see the two vertical support bars that you can tie wrap to. (The lower black trim piece is the one that touches the tranny hump and has slots in it)

I also had to extend the chassis ground wire so it would reach the sub box. I put a ring terminal on the end of the extended ground and connected it to one of the studs that is sticking up just behind that lower black plastic trim piece. It has a 9mm nut on it.

This worked for me and I think it looks good. You may or may not like this method but I thought I would let you guys know how I chose to mount it.

Eric

 

I received my sub unit today, but I don't know the color codes from the Lightning's radio harness. Anyone have the color code mapping? The Crutchfield guy said the kit had everything, but failed to mention the need for the T harness. I don't want to wait 2 more days to hook it up! My radio is already pulled out.

 

Come on LighTTning, you can make it!

The wires on that 'T' harness adapter are spliced together in one of the plugs. My factory wires barely even pull out to the front of the opening. I think it would be very dificult to splice it in that small space.

It is possible that someone else might sell that harness who is local to you. The harness came packaged in a Clarion bag. I called Clarion to ask about the premium stereo questions regarding the 'T' adapter harness. When I called they said that they do not make the harness. It is just packaged for them. The guy said that Ford makes the adapter harnesses. Now I don't know if this is correct or if I just got some idiot on the phone. But it might be worth a try if you can't wait those two days.

I would suggest waiting if you can stand it. It goes in in minutes with the adapter harness.

Eric

 

gah it better be in my package.. i asked if it had everything i need when i first ordered it :|