I had DealerJim's Autotap hooked up to my truck last night. The air inlet temp started at 109 degrees while idling for about 15 minutes while we setup the laptop.

As I drove down the street in the rain at about 40 mph the temp started dropping. After about a mile it was in the high 80's when I stopped to make a turn. In another 1/2 mile it was down to the same temp my overhead thermometer was reading which was 73 degrees.

It would start climbing everytime I stopped for a light and drop quickly to outside temp when I started moving again.

BTW, with a 160 stat my coolant temp was 172 degrees and the cylinder head temp was 174 - 176. I would imagine during a run the cylinder head temp should be close to 180 which is optimum for max power. I didn't get to test that theory because of the rain.

Good job Sal.

 

Glad you like it. I designed the FASTair to be the best Lightning induction system money can buy.

 

Depending on the version of Autotap software you have it may show 2 intake air temp readings. One like you mentioned gets near ambient very quickly and easily even with Sals 2 year old open filter the other stays about 20 degrees hgher.

I havent figured out where the respetive sensors are but they are clearly different.

PS - Autotap JUST released new software and a hardware upgrade is avail as well.. The new software is a big improvement...

here is screenshot of new interface
Doug

 

Doug, if it helps, Ford labels IAT1 and the ambient sensor, and IAT2 as the one after the intercooler. If you can log both, then the IAT1 should drop as you make a blast, while IAT2 should rise as the blower produces extra heat under boost.

 

Thanks for the tip Sal

If you look at the screenshot the table has some sample paramaters I used from the one avail in new software. The intake air temp is just listed as Intake air temp. And what is weird is that some times the parameters load and you get 2 listings for IAT and some times you don't but as I recall they were both labeled the same by autotap..

I am gonna do some more research this weekend. I took the single blade throttle body and your old style filter off and put the stock air-box and stock TB back on last weekend to test the theories that have been floating around that the stock box makes more power due to colder air... Well I plan to log the evidence but the IAT are higher than ambient even with the air-box ( I may be reading IAT2- Ill check ) but more importantly the stock box ( with K&N panel ) clearly doesn't flow as much air. My exhaust system is noticeable quieter and the truck doesn't wind up as freely. The stock box does make it easier to hear the engine though... You can also hear tire spin more easily .

If you have any suspicion of engine noises the stock box should help make it easier to hear the issues.

Anyway I am gonna figure out how many IAT readings are avail in Autotap Ver 1 software and Ver 2 then log IAT, MAF voltage and MAF lbs/min for two runs to prove the differences between stock box and open filter. MAF voltage should show the amount of air each setup is capable of flowing, irrespective of the temp differences between runs.

PS the return spring on the Stock TB has a much stiffer feel to the foot than the sping on the BABolt TB, which may explain some of the perception that the throttle response is improved.

Doug

 

Yeah, the stock or modified/stock airbox is fine if you run stock or up to +3 psi extra, but it's definately not for trucks running over +4 psi. On the dyno, trucks set up like that will drop off in power early, from the lack of adequate airflow. Happens every time.

 

Lightning Tuner,

I have a new stock 02 L and am considering some mods. I do not want to change the pullies until after my warrenty is up. I was considering the fast air sytem, chip and single opening throttle body. Would I need to replace the stock air box if I don't change pullies? Thanks!

WarEagle

 

WarEagle: Your L would be OK with those mods and a stock air box. It would run ok but not to it's peak potential until you upgrade to a Fast Air. Obviously, when(not 'if' ) you get a pulley(I recommend 4 lbs or higher), you will need the extra, fresh air that Sal's kit provides.

Deo vindice,

Dan

 

Doug, does the Autotap actually show Tranny temps for our L's as well?

 

Yes if you look at the table on the screenshot the Trans oil temp is there .....

Ill get some better screenshots this weekend
Doug

 

Autotap does have both IATs 2nd one is labeled "second Air charge Temp Sensor"

Interestingly after making a couple logged 1-100 runs the 2nd IAT ( after the intercooler ) cools VERY quickly down.. The first remains 20-25 degrees OVER ambient with the stock air box....

The mass air saw max of 46 lb/min and 4.7 volts

I will change back to the old style PSP filtyer tomorrow and make some more passes for comparison.

These runs are with 4# pulley and stock air box and K&N panel filter.

Doug

 

This post was best post i have ever "Red" lol ...... much info ! Where can you pick up that Autotap software ....? Mite be helpfull !

 

Thank you for taking the time to post this data. I've got to get the Autotap!

 

I apologize to the supporting vendors, if any of them carry it, but I know you can get the Autotap from: http://www.southfloridapulleyhq.com/frame.htm



Looks like I may get one myself!

 

Don't know if any of the vendors carry them.. I got mine from the source www.autotap.com

I cropped the hell out of this to shrink it but you get the idea. THis is showing the minimum parameters for logging. THe PCM is only so fast and NOT every parameter is saved/updated every cycle...



The software has some issues.. Mostly around the logging feature BUT it works and you get the data you want ... In this run and error caused it to drop the data for the 2nd IAT even though I saw it in the log right after the run... Wierd...

Thats 108 degrees at 99 mph on a 88 degree night.... With stock airbox.

Dont ask about the intake manifold tuning valve.. I have no idea what its for ... It just loooked cool so I picked it...

Doug