Air Intake
I am the same way, I posted a few weeks ago about and got some replys about cold air kits (thanks to those who did reply) but I still cannot seem to decide on which kit to go with. I am not big into cutting the inner splash shield unless I have a perfect replacement available. to me its all boiling down to this:
a) how much performance does the kit add?
b) what are the chances of water getting sucked into my engine during a houston size flood?
c) cost. What do I really get for 400 bucks that I cannot but at home depot for 30.00 or an aircraft supply store????
Sure I am paying for materials and the engineering and R&D but come on what it really involved in bringing a cold air source directly into the intake? I want to see CFm and flow #'s but cannot find any. I would settle for real world numbers too.... Any one with a L dyno their truck with just a kit to give some before and after numbers? Any track times before and after?
a) how much performance does the kit add?
b) what are the chances of water getting sucked into my engine during a houston size flood?
c) cost. What do I really get for 400 bucks that I cannot but at home depot for 30.00 or an aircraft supply store????
Sure I am paying for materials and the engineering and R&D but come on what it really involved in bringing a cold air source directly into the intake? I want to see CFm and flow #'s but cannot find any. I would settle for real world numbers too.... Any one with a L dyno their truck with just a kit to give some before and after numbers? Any track times before and after?
Originally posted by svt4rd
a) how much performance does the kit add?
a) how much performance does the kit add?
b) what are the chances of water getting sucked into my engine during a houston size flood?
c) cost. What do I really get for 400 bucks that I cannot but at home depot for 30.00 or an aircraft supply store????
I want to see CFm and flow #'s but cannot find any. I would settle for real world numbers too.... Any one with a L dyno their truck with just a kit to give some before and after numbers? Any track times before and after?
I did go to the track tonight and ran w/ the stock airbox and panel K&N and noticed the power from 5k to 5.5, was just awful. It was as if the motor was slowing down big time. NOW I know why you start pulling cleanly away in power from me at the upper rpms...
Anyhoo, I took and did the IvanLightning Airbox Mod, noticed my power was better from 5 to 5.5, and then dropped 1 tenth almost exactly and backed it up. I then let it cool and dropped another tenth. 7.82 @ 80.1 (1.83 60' ft.) approx. was my best run. Had two 7.92's. I guess that's about a 8.0ish at a true 1/8. Weather was so so. Not too hot, but it was humid. I noticed my coolant temps would get down to 160ish while waiting to run, then when I got up to the line to run I was at 185 or 186 (rock steady there), but my IAT went from 90 to 115 after I did a burnout and then about 120 when I staged (this was w/ the stock airbox mod). So then I launched and went down the track. The IAT dropped about 5 or 10 maybe? I can't remember, BUT, on the way back home I noticed I was 8 to 10 above ambient. It was 80 on my truck's display and about 88 to 90 on the IAT. That was at 80 mph too! I then slowed down to 60 and it went up to 100!!! Then to 70 down to about 96! Then 80 back down to 90. W/ my stock airbox I was getting just about ambient to 4 above it at all speeds. Quite amazing 'eh!
Anyhoo, I took and did the IvanLightning Airbox Mod, noticed my power was better from 5 to 5.5, and then dropped 1 tenth almost exactly and backed it up. I then let it cool and dropped another tenth. 7.82 @ 80.1 (1.83 60' ft.) approx. was my best run. Had two 7.92's. I guess that's about a 8.0ish at a true 1/8. Weather was so so. Not too hot, but it was humid. I noticed my coolant temps would get down to 160ish while waiting to run, then when I got up to the line to run I was at 185 or 186 (rock steady there), but my IAT went from 90 to 115 after I did a burnout and then about 120 when I staged (this was w/ the stock airbox mod). So then I launched and went down the track. The IAT dropped about 5 or 10 maybe? I can't remember, BUT, on the way back home I noticed I was 8 to 10 above ambient. It was 80 on my truck's display and about 88 to 90 on the IAT. That was at 80 mph too! I then slowed down to 60 and it went up to 100!!! Then to 70 down to about 96! Then 80 back down to 90. W/ my stock airbox I was getting just about ambient to 4 above it at all speeds. Quite amazing 'eh!
http://www.lightningforums.com/forum...ivan+lightning
It's a good trick to try out at the track after a decent cooling period if you have a lower or upper pulley, but I wouldn't recommend it for driving all the time or hot lapping, or you will not notice much difference than just having the stock airbox on (it flows more, but as the heat builds up you'll lose timing through the IAT).
Today, cruising in stop and go traffic I noticed my IAT was reading 131!!! Ambient outside was 80! If you are wondering how I know what my IAT is reading, it's because I have the Diablo Hellion OBD-2 handheld scan tool (www.eobd.com).
Read on if you wanna hear about how a cool air kit can lower intake temps. This was from Sal:
As for "do we race at idle", well, the truck starts off not moving right? Would you rather launch your truck with less timing because the IAT is reading hot underhood air? Our testing has shown an average of about 160 degree IAT temps using a regular unshielded cone filter at idle. That was in 55 degree ambient air. With the FASTair in the same ambient temp, the IAT was reading 90 degrees instead of 160. Once the vehicle started moving, IAT temp dropped to 60 degrees withing 3 seconds. (that's the 30 degree drop I mentioned, I was mistaken in the above post) So with the FASTair the incoming air was 50 degrees cooler at idle, and was 5 degrees over ambient moving.
Last edited by BfB; Aug 11, 2002 at 03:19 PM.
Originally posted by BfB
On a stock truck maybe 5 rwhp, if that. On a pullied truck, such as a 4 or 6#, you're gonna see about 5-10 at peak, BUT a TON more above 5k to 5.5k versus the same rpm w/ just the stock panel filter (no matter how much you modify your stock airbox--that panel filter just doesn't have the ability to flow as much as that 12" Powerstack does).
but you're still having to contend w/ the factory airbox restriction (it's only going to flow so much as your intake ingestion continues to rise), plus the factory panel K&N replacement just doesn't flow enough volume for high hp #'s, esp. w/ a larger pulley (you'll notice this big time on 4#'s additional and up!).
On a stock truck maybe 5 rwhp, if that. On a pullied truck, such as a 4 or 6#, you're gonna see about 5-10 at peak, BUT a TON more above 5k to 5.5k versus the same rpm w/ just the stock panel filter (no matter how much you modify your stock airbox--that panel filter just doesn't have the ability to flow as much as that 12" Powerstack does).
but you're still having to contend w/ the factory airbox restriction (it's only going to flow so much as your intake ingestion continues to rise), plus the factory panel K&N replacement just doesn't flow enough volume for high hp #'s, esp. w/ a larger pulley (you'll notice this big time on 4#'s additional and up!).


