It prevents the dumping(loss) of s/c boost pressure when doing a burnout(for launching at the track) or at WOT between shifts. You don't want to have lost your boost just before staging as it takes several(?) seconds to regain it---kinda like standin' there with your trousers around your ankles .

No repercussions since I disconnected the solenoid connecter 25,000 miles ago.

Dan

 

Since everyone is throughing in their 2 cents I'll do the same.

I uplugged mine... a 2001... got the noise that was mentioned above and a code was indeed set becuase the check engine light came on.

It a personal thing for me becuase I've been fightin a check engine light for years on my SHO and still can't get it resolved.

So... I went to the auto parts store and bought the parts and did my own boost bypass... no code no light.

 

I'm not saying that the boost bypass is a bad idea, it's not. But, unplugging mine acomplished the same result and didn't cost a dime. I have never had a check engine light come on.

It eliminates the dumping of boost, that the supercharger has already made, on the upshifts. Stock, an L will fall flat on the upshifts (hence the upshift fart sound, dumping boost) and make poor power with the boost bypass working. It's commonly known that Ford built this in to protect the transmission from the massive torque being produced. The end result might be damage to the tranny but the immediate result is worth the risk to me.

My truck pic has been photoshop lowered. The real pic is in my gallery. It's not nearly that low but still looks good to me.

Tim

 

I thought the "fart" sounds was a result of some of the fuel injectors beging turned off for about .5 seconds, not because of boost being dumped??

 

 

You are absolutely right. They occur at the same time though (with a stock computer, no chip) and while I knew that, I hadn't had enough coffee to have a clear mind. I must remember to not post before 3 or 4 cups.

Tim

 

So basically if you are running a stock program with the boost bypass enabled, whenever you hear the fart you know that boost is also being dumped?

I have not unplugged my bypass as of yet, but now I am tempted to try it because my truck farts almost as much as I do!

Sammy

 

Sammy,

Yes. If I'm wrong, somebody please correct me.

Tim

 

Straight from the ChikenWorks

 

I have has a boost bypass kit for 6 months or more and didn't get any instructions when it came, so I just unplugged the wiring and it seemed to work just fine.

Due to Don's Bolt's picture, I tried to install it. Did I do it right Don?



Tim

 

Yea, mine did the same.As soon as you toe into it at around 1500 rpm's it begins to roar.It bothered me so much, that I reconnected the bypass. To tell you the truth, I really never had the boost shut-down on me . Even at the track, so back it went...much quieter now.

 

I can hardly stand the noise that the 2# lower pulley is making at Idle already (W/O the factory cage) I'm considering going back with the stock lower W/the factory cage...Simply to gid rid of the grinding sound of boost that can't bypass at idle. due to the increased blower rpm. "Love the power....Hate the racket"

 

To those who are experiancing noise from disconnecting the solenoid...

You guys must be doing something wrong. All the boost solenoid does is give the PCM the ablility to kill boost if it sees a failsafe. Unplugging the solenoid simply stops the PCM from being able to do that. It should not affect any other aspect of the truck, other than stopping the PCM from dumping boost.

When the Gen 2s first came out, many people were making the mistake of disconnecting the pink hose from the bypass itself. This DOES stop the boost dump, because you are killing the vaccum to the bypass. However, it also makes the bypass closed all the time, which will increase blower noise at idle, and also raise the intake charge by heating the air all the time since it can't bypass the blower.

Maybe this is what those who are hearing noise have done? I'd check it out.

 

Sal is right about disconnecting a vac. signal to the bypass. This is a no-no. I've been running blowers for over a decade and when the aftermarket blowers for Mustangs first came out, there were no bypass valves. You'd get a roar all the time on decel, and intake air temps soared. It's not the best thing for the blower, either.

FWIW, I disconnected the solenoid well over a year ago and haven't looked back. I have not read the PCM, so there may be a stored code, but I do not get any MIL.

It's funny...I forgot to plug it back in when I took the truck into the dealer to get my intercooler recall done. It was plugged back in when I got it home and poked around.

 

Thanks All!

Gotta be honest....I was pulling the vac supply and plugging it. I need to sharpen my reading skills too