What is the final word on Eibachs and bumpstops?
I don't know if this will help, but maybe it'll be good for comparison or at least a baseline. My drop is 1.5" (see suspension drop reference). After a hard day of driving at Laguna Seca today, my bump stop barely contacted the control arms. I'll post pictures tomorrow.
Look for a thread titled "Drove to Laguna Seca in a L, drove home in a Rental". I'll post a few pictures, and some interesting suspension info.
Spike
Look for a thread titled "Drove to Laguna Seca in a L, drove home in a Rental". I'll post a few pictures, and some interesting suspension info.
Spike
I had my Hotchkis springs put on Thursday. I cut the front bump stops about an inch and used the Hotchkis stops in the back. I go 1.25" lowering in the front and 2.0" in the rear. I installed the proper length end-lengths and the truck is like a slot car comprared to stock on smooth pavement. I need different valving though because the spring rates are higher and I don't like feeling like I'm on a PO-GO stick when going over some washboard surfaces. The rear is really more noticeable than the front.
Time to call Ruslow for some shocks. $$$$$$
Time to call Ruslow for some shocks. $$$$$$
Needforspeed, i have a similar prob with my rear springs, I just put the glass springs on and cut my bumpstops about 2" which helped a lot, but the ride is still a little harsh.
What shocks would help the most for this?
Spike, how much space should i have between my front bumpstop and control arm? The ride in the front in harsh and i only have about 1/2" of space there. I could cut my bump stop more, i just need to know how much.
What shocks would help the most for this?
Spike, how much space should i have between my front bumpstop and control arm? The ride in the front in harsh and i only have about 1/2" of space there. I could cut my bump stop more, i just need to know how much.
dt,
talked to Stan last night.
Gap on the front should be .5" to .75"
Received some goodies from So-Cal this morning also..
Energy Suspension bumpstops (part number 9.9102.G) **might be selling if not needed***
~~~other secret goodies
Bob
talked to Stan last night.

Gap on the front should be .5" to .75"
Received some goodies from So-Cal this morning also..

Energy Suspension bumpstops (part number 9.9102.G) **might be selling if not needed***
~~~other secret goodies
Bob
Last edited by Speedin Bob; Apr 22, 2002 at 11:38 AM.
dt,
stock shocks in the rear for now but will be cutting the OEM bumpstops....or replacing with Energy Suspension fitment
Front shocks will be an adjustable set Ruslow carries (couldn't swing the QA1's at thsi juncture)
lemme know if you want my extra set of bumpstops.
Bob
stock shocks in the rear for now but will be cutting the OEM bumpstops....or replacing with Energy Suspension fitment
Front shocks will be an adjustable set Ruslow carries (couldn't swing the QA1's at thsi juncture)

lemme know if you want my extra set of bumpstops.
Bob
Last edited by Speedin Bob; Apr 22, 2002 at 03:42 PM.
Speedin Bob -
I have posted a request for information to stan over on his nloc forum. What are the adjustable shocks he carries; I thought they were the QA1s.
I think if I add his panhard bar and some decent shocks I'll be cookin through the cloverleafs.
I have posted a request for information to stan over on his nloc forum. What are the adjustable shocks he carries; I thought they were the QA1s.
I think if I add his panhard bar and some decent shocks I'll be cookin through the cloverleafs.
Need,
Stan does carry the QA1's as well as other fitment but I'll let him convey the info so as not to misrepresent him. Trust you understand.
As for the panhard bar... Very nice mod if your into pummeling apexes and like your adrenaline rush to last longer than 12 seconds...or something.
Bob
Stan does carry the QA1's as well as other fitment but I'll let him convey the info so as not to misrepresent him. Trust you understand.

As for the panhard bar... Very nice mod if your into pummeling apexes and like your adrenaline rush to last longer than 12 seconds...or something.

Bob
Thanks Speedin' Bob I totally understand.
I like the 12 second rushes and I also believe the steering wheel was meant for more than just getting you to the place where you get those 12 second rushes.
I like the 12 second rushes and I also believe the steering wheel was meant for more than just getting you to the place where you get those 12 second rushes.
DeJaVu, all over again!!!
Hitting the bumpstops with EIBACH springs is not uncommon. Especially if you run sticky tires. I don't run Eibach ANYTHING.
Out of curiosity, I 'blued' my bumpstops on all 4 corners about four months ago to see if I hit, and after seven HARD laps at the PIR road course. . .no evidence of contact at all. My bumpstops are the factory length, too. Never trimmed 'em, although I may when the hot weather comes and the slicks stick harder. That's why I don't run or recommend Eibachs. The two best performing combos I found- believe it or not- are to run a cut stocker- 1 coil- w/Beltech Nitro Actives on the street, or go all out with Hotchkiss/QA1 set-up for the track/extreme street.)
Not trying to interfere or flame anyone. . .except EIBACH. . .just sharing the fruits of my research, for what it's worth.
Coils touching each other?! This shouldn't happen. It's called coil bind and it's to be avoided at all costs. If someone says this is common (even in a rising rate/variable rate spring), they're smoking something.
BTW- has anyone studied the QA1's ability to handle the Hotchkiss springs on these trucks in racing duty? How's the durability in racing environments with sticky tires? Inquiring minds want to know. Spike_Engineering- have you done any studies?
Hitting the bumpstops with EIBACH springs is not uncommon. Especially if you run sticky tires. I don't run Eibach ANYTHING.
Out of curiosity, I 'blued' my bumpstops on all 4 corners about four months ago to see if I hit, and after seven HARD laps at the PIR road course. . .no evidence of contact at all. My bumpstops are the factory length, too. Never trimmed 'em, although I may when the hot weather comes and the slicks stick harder. That's why I don't run or recommend Eibachs. The two best performing combos I found- believe it or not- are to run a cut stocker- 1 coil- w/Beltech Nitro Actives on the street, or go all out with Hotchkiss/QA1 set-up for the track/extreme street.)
Not trying to interfere or flame anyone. . .except EIBACH. . .just sharing the fruits of my research, for what it's worth.
Coils touching each other?! This shouldn't happen. It's called coil bind and it's to be avoided at all costs. If someone says this is common (even in a rising rate/variable rate spring), they're smoking something.
BTW- has anyone studied the QA1's ability to handle the Hotchkiss springs on these trucks in racing duty? How's the durability in racing environments with sticky tires? Inquiring minds want to know. Spike_Engineering- have you done any studies?
Last edited by WrongdayJ; Apr 22, 2002 at 02:38 PM.


