Lightning

C-Notch is DONE !!!

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Old Feb 11, 2002 | 06:06 PM
  #16  
hdmlnium's Avatar
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From: Scarborough,Me. USA
Thumbs up

Rob,
Looks great as always, great job and thanks for sharing each step of you lowering with us.

Joe, If you got two plasma cutters you could always send me one. lol

Bill
 
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Old Feb 11, 2002 | 06:11 PM
  #17  
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From: Orland Park, IL just south of chicago
Originally posted by Ashenor
DJY1 or RT, if you did it over lowering your trucks would you do it any different way?

I want to do mine as soon as the snow is gone, but just want to do it right. Hopefully will have my 20's by then and i like djy1's look.

Thanks
I'm not sure what your asking, but I love the lowered look. I didn't know there was a C- notch for these and I'm definetly going to do it, cause my truck does bottom out quit a bit on rough roads.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2002 | 06:13 PM
  #18  
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From: Orland Park, IL just south of chicago
Originally posted by hdmlnium
Rob,
Looks great as always, great job and thanks for sharing each step of you lowering with us.

Joe, If you got two plasma cutters you could always send me one. lol

Bill
You should see the new one I got for work. It can cut up to 1.5 inch thick steel all day long! Its sick the way that thing cuts.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2002 | 07:08 PM
  #19  
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Ashenor & RTKILLA, SVTRobG, I think if I would to it all over again I would go with a 4/6 kit because lower is better! I would definitely C-section the rear with the drop cause, I could not stand the bottoming out my truck was going thru on normal driving. If you want my shock part numbers let me know I have the part numbers for the shocks I experimented with three top brands of shocks till I got a smooth ride. Having a lowered Lightning is the ultimate Ford should have done it from the factory.

djy

 
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Old Feb 11, 2002 | 07:11 PM
  #20  
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Thanks, i would appreciate it if you could post the stock #'s for the shocks you liked best.

Which 4/6 kit did you use or would recommend? If i remember right i though you used peices from a few kits to get you L down to where it is.

I am going to do the 4/6 with the notch. Just not sure if i will be able to get in my drive way.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2002 | 07:25 PM
  #21  
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From: Harrison,nj
DJY1,
Sweet looking truck man Ive probably asked u this before but what is the actual drop in " ?? What did u do in the front??

HD
Did u install those sliders yet???
Later
Smok'n L
 
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Old Feb 11, 2002 | 08:12 PM
  #22  
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From: Houston, Tx.
Guys,
Sharp looking piece!!

I would strongly recommend welding those pieces in. Have your welder lay a bead that is no thicker than the thinnest piece that is being joined and go slow. A good welder can perform wonders. In my opinion, I don't think this connection is a good candidate for a "friction connection", which is what you get when you bolt up and don't weld, don't want the connection to slip. In this case, it doesn't matter how strong the bolts in my opinion. If not welded in, I think you will eventually see the frame begin to sag around the C-notch. It may not happen today, or tomorrow, or even next year, but the risk for sagging is there. Note that most of the custom truck modders that bag their truck always strengthen their C-notches by welding.

Just my 0.02 fellas, but if it were my truck, I would be visiting my welder.

Chris S.
 

Last edited by GoDogGo; Feb 11, 2002 at 08:14 PM.
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Old Feb 11, 2002 | 08:30 PM
  #23  
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From: Stinkin Joisey
As GoDogGo said weld that sucker in. SVTRobG says that the frame is 1/8" thick and mild steel, as a welder, I don't see any problem. And I know that it would be be a much stronger joint, welded. Just lay a bead with any wire feed machine, it's a piece of cake or better yet, low heat and a few 7018 rods and you lowered Lightning fella will be dancing in the streets BTW a 7018 welding rod has a tensile strength of 70,000 psi and a yield strength of 52,000 psi
 
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Old Feb 11, 2002 | 08:34 PM
  #24  
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From: Scarborough,Me. USA
Wink

Smok'n L,
No not yet, my truck is down in Jersey for about a month or so at JDM getting a couple of go fast parts and then when I get it home I will re do the drop with the sliders in back, the c-notch's and that will give me about an inch and a half more in the back and then going to do the lower control arms and different springs for the front. That should give it a better look with me dropping back to 20's.

Bill
 
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Old Feb 11, 2002 | 11:54 PM
  #25  
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From: Honolulu
Smok'n L, My drop is a 4/4.

Ashenor, Western Chassis has a 4/6 Drop Kit that comes with coils and A-arms for the front and the rear is a 5" inch flip kit with 1 inch shackes and C-section kit.

<www.SportTruckDirect.com>

I have Doetsch Tech Shocks Nitro Slammer Drop Truck Shocks for the rear part # 4180G

I have for the front Edelbrock shocks PART # 33987

When I first got into lowering my Lightning there were no lowering kits for Lightning so I experimented called around, flew up to La. 3 times from Hawaii and this what I ended up on my truck. Almost all kits are make for stock 2wd F-150's.

Hope this is some help, djy

Swanson Chip
JL #3 pulley
JL Drive Shaft Loop
Air Raid With 10 inch S&B Big Mouth Filter
Bell Tech 3/4 Drop, C-Section Rear Frame
Western Chassis 2 inch A-arms
Doetsch Tech Nitro-Slammer rear Shocks, Front shocks Edelbrock
Tinted Windows 5% Smoke Tint
Windshield 50% tint
Clear Corners
2001 Head and tail lights
PIAA Super White Headlites
Carbon Fiber Dash Kit
Keyless Door Pad
Trenz Top and Bottom Polished Billet Grills
Trenz Billet Foot Pedals
Trenz Billet Antenna
250A Punch Amp
Sony XplodX Amp XM-604EQX
4 Polk dX7 3-way speakers
MTX-ThunderForm with 2-10 inch subwoofers 6000 series
Calf. Custom 1 piece monogramed plush carpet mat
Ford System 4 Alarm
2001 20 inch Chrome rims
295-40-20 Goodyear HPZR
MagnaFlow Muffler

Born 5/1/2000
#2577




 
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Old Feb 12, 2002 | 12:07 AM
  #26  
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From: Royal Oak, MI
Thanks a lot for the info. Now i just have to decide the 4/6 kit or airbags ...

My friend just opened a custom shop and is doing airbags and will pretty much do it for parts cost. Just not sure yet if i want to do that to the L.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2002 | 12:09 PM
  #27  
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From: Harrison,nj
Thanks for the replys guys.
But HD what shocks and lower control arms did u decide to go w/? And there is a controversy on the c-notch, TO WELD OR NOT TO WELD, that is the question??
Thanks
Smok'n L
 
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Old Feb 12, 2002 | 12:45 PM
  #28  
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From: Orland Park, IL just south of chicago
Thanks for the numbers on the shocks D. I was thinking about getting the 01 blisteins cause I rode in a 01 and it was nice! the bell tech shocks are kind rough and I'mnot liking them anymore!

does your truck still handle really good with these shocks?
does it feel like the 01's at stock height, or BETTER .

I wish I could go to a 4/6 drop kit, but around my area its hell with pot holes from winter and crap like that! I was thinking about going 1 inch lower all the way around, so that shouldn't be to difficult to do with some tools! HEHEHEHEHEHEHE

Later.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2002 | 02:30 PM
  #29  
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From: Harrison,nj
RobG,
Did u have to install a rear flip kit, or did u just install the C-notch? Also did u change the rear leafs or r they still stock?
One more quick ? for ya i was thinking of painting the black interior pieces on my truck to a glossy black, maybe im mistaken but I think u have this done already right?
Thanks
Smok'n L
 
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Old Feb 12, 2002 | 03:20 PM
  #30  
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From: Illinois
Smok'nL,

Here's my suspension parts list.

1. Western Chassis Lower Control Arms ( part # 2319-01 )
2. So-Cal Speed Shop coil springs (Eibach) # 70-700
3. Hotchkis sway bar ( part # 2242 ) sold as front & rear set
4. Doetsch Tech shocks ( part # 4069G )

5. Hotchkis rear leafs ( part # 2412 )
6. Hotchkis rear sway bar ( #2242 )
7. Western Chassis hanger/shackle kit ( part # 201903 )
8. Western Chassis C-Notch kit ( part # 2129 )
9. Western Chassis 6 degree pinion kit ( part # 2056 )
10. Doetsch Tech rear shock ( part # DT 4112G )

And yes, some of my interior trim is painted gloss black.
 
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