Has anyone figured out what the JDM boost control kit does?

see http://www.teamjdm.com/id123.htm

It aparently is a plug this line...Tee this line... type thing and you leave the electroncs connected so that the computer never knows.

 

I think you've figured it out alright. Now just disconnect the electrical connection to accomplish the same thing. The computer don't care if it's plugged in or not.

 

Tim I hate to burst your bubble, but if you just disconnect the electrical connection you can get a service engine light. I disconected the electrical connection one day at the track, I was doing a burnout and over reved it a bit. That set off the SES light. Lucky for me JDM was there and he read and reset the light for me.

I had taken the boost bipass kit off when I brought it in for service, needless to say it went right back on and never had a problem again.

 

Don,

Mine has been disconnected for three months and have never had a service engine soon light come on. I have more I could say but I'll leave it right there. Not good to badmouth t00ners or something.

 

I beleve there are soft codes that do not bring on the check engine light but do set a code. I do not know if draining the system will reset these codes or if all code readers find these soft codes.

Does anyone know of a good description of the function of this valve.

Motor dead the arm is down.
At idle the arm is up.

Andy

 

Mine has been unplugged for about 18 months with no problems. Including one trip to the dealer.

 

OK boys, Here's the trick

Remove the pink line from the top of the boost control diaphram valve, (not the selenoid valve) and plug it with a 1/4" bolt cut to about 3/4 inch long but that still has about 1/4" of smooth shank so you don't get an air leak, or use a 1/4" hose mender and a 1/4" cap.

Next, get 3/16" Tee to put it into the boost hose that goes into the firewall and up to the boost gauge(there is a white 3/16" hose mender in this location stock). Get 9" of 3/16 fuel rubber fuel line to go from this Tee to the top of the boost control valve.

The result is the computer will no longer have the ability to dump boost at the shift (torque reduction) or as part of the over-rev protection. THe computer will never know and will not throw a soft or hard code. The boost bypass will still be active at idle thru near zero vacume, and closed shut in all boost conditions.

Hope this helps

Andy

 

You have to be kidding me... thats it?!? A $25 kit to do what 5 minutes and spare parts laying about the garage can accomplish for nothing?

Sad thing is that it works pretty darn well too...

 

Attached is a pic of the mod

 

2cool

What changes did you feel after the mod?

Andy

 

I wonder what the PCM thinks about triggering the dump and nothing happening??

I think I would rather have my PCM think it cannot trigger the DUMP relay than triggering it and not getting feedback?

 

If you've never experienced the boost dump, then no change will occur. If you have, then it will be awesome. There is nothing like going down the track, supercharger whining away and boost gauge a 1lb.

 

I did it tonight, and the shifting is much more firm, plus the boost guage stays pegged at about 9#s. Keep in mind that this thing is new with about 500 miles on the odometer... heh.

Anyways, the layout is a lot different from that picture, dunno if it was of an older Lightning. Tube color is the same still though.

 

I think your feeling break in dude....

 

What the heck are you trying to say? Is it the pain killers man?

With the boost dump bypassed, the sensor will never see boost under any condition. Nothing will "trigger" because the condition that normally causes the dump cannot be replicated.

Kudos to the boys and girls @ JDM for figuring this one out.

BTW, get your PayPal account running.