Here's a somewhat detailed front brakejob that I did today with Ruslow's slotted and drilled rotors and ceramic pads.



As you can see I believe in braking late, and you know if you are running down F-Bodys and Vetts you will have to hit the brakes often to avoid collision with those slower vehicles. These stock rotors have warped and cracked all the way through in some areas.



I chose Napa's Ceramix carbon-cermaic pads for a replacement. These pads have a lifetime warranty, thus can be replaced for the lifetime of your Lightning. I broke off the "squeal tabs" because I did not want them damaging the slotted rotors. Don't forget, ceramic pads are quiet and NO BRAKE DUST.

Front Brake Pads - CMX-7576
Rear Brake Pads - CMX-7584

These are about $90 a set(!). But they have a lifetime warranty, thus free replacements.

 

Before you begin this task be sure you have the proper parts and tools on hand. Don't be a cheap-***, replace the bearings when you re-do the rotors. You must replace the inner seal anyway when you replace the rotors so go on ahead and get it all. Autozone WILL NOT HAVE THE PARTS! Go see your nearest bloodsucking Ford parts department.



Parts list:

2 X E6TZ-1190-A RETAINER (Inner seal)
2 X F65Z-1216-AA OUTER BEARING
2 X F65Z-1201-11 INNER BEARING
2 x P0019 DUST CAP
2 X Cotter pins

Total for this list should be $50.
You should also have a Torx T-45 socket ready to dissasemble the calipers. The caliper bolts are 18mm. Invest in a one man brake-bleeding kit as well.




Be sure to clean off the old grease from the front shafts. I chose a Teflon high temprature grease, I have used it on many motorcycle applications in the past. Pack those bearings well, and pay attention to the inner rotor bearing cavity - it needs to be filled to the rim with grease for proper re-circulation.

 

C-Clamps are your friend! Always have a couple! Attach the bleeder, open the valve (10mm) and compress the outer piston and leave the clamp on as you compress the inner. You will bleed out the contaminated, worn out heat-scorched fluid. When you are ready to re-assmble the caliper, put some more white (lithium) grease back into the rubber slider boots.




Finished product. Be sure to clean the rotor surface off with brake cleaner and a cloth rag prior to use to remove contaminants. Take it easy for the first couple of miles - and yes, the smell will not be nice. Be sure that you have the rotors on the right sides for the slotted and drilled units! Ruslow will mark them, otherwise the swirls go outward on counter-clockwise spin (driver) and the other is passenger side. Put them on wrong and you will warp them and burn them up.


It took me about 2 1/2 hours for the entire job. As a footnote, be sure to only tighten the rotor retaining nut hand tight, spin the rotor in both directions, check tightness again and back off to match the cotter-pin hole with the nut retainer cap. (Thanks for the advice on this one guys!)

The braking is phenominal. Time to do the rear set!

 

looks awesome! what was the total price setback? Someone should do a stopping distance test: stock vs. upgraded

 

How much are the rotor's?

Thanks, Justin

 

Great step by step.

 

A better test would be how many multiple 80 - 20 stops before fade.

 

are you the handler or the handsome young gent with the beard?LOL--my wife wants to know............

Btw, I showed our Rhodesian Ridgeback, Suede to his championship but never to a Best in Show. Congrats again to you and Blazer--he looks an awful lot like Suede(passed away 22 yrs. ago but still missed.

Dan

 

On the spindle nut (rotor retaining nut) here is the book procedure. I got this info from the 2001 F150 Workshop Manual.

While rotating (clockwise) the brake disc and hub, tighten the spindle nut 30 lb/ft. Loosen the spindle nut two turns. Tighten the spindle nut while rotating (counter clockwise) the brake disc and hub 17-24 lb/ft. Loosen the spindle nut 175 degrees. Tighten the spindle nut while rotating (clockwise) the brake disc and hub 17 lb/in.

 

Master Of Pain,
You may have your rotors on wrong, mine are just the opposite as yours and the way that Ruslow explained it to me is you want the spent gasses to be pulled out when spinning and not pushed in. Anyway one of has them on wrong, I just thought I would let you know.

Bill

 

Hey (hdmlnium), I think M.O.P.'s shot is from the driver's side and yours is from the passenger side. Just my .02

 

CHIKIN1,
That is right but the slots are going different if you look at them a little closer. The way his are it will pull in on the rotation and the way mine are they will push out on the rotation.

Bill

 

hdmlnium,
Yours will actually pull the air from the rotor edge to the hub, or inside of the rotor. The heat will then have no-where to go. You want to pull the hot air from the center toward the outer edge of the rotor. Just .02 more cents.

 

Ruslow,or anyone who owns his rotors...How much on those bad boyz 'cuz I need some new ones soon.

 

Under normal circumstances there is no need to replace berings ro inner grease seals when doing a front brake job even if you are replacing the rotors provided the berings and seals are in good condition.
noelvm