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putting a sub in your L

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Old May 31, 2001 | 09:27 AM
  #16  
water73's Avatar
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Welll it looks like I have enough info now. To take on the build of the box myself. will send some pics after its done. thanks for all help.
 
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Old May 31, 2001 | 11:59 AM
  #17  
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rtkilla - In another thread you said something about compensating the box size for the actuall displacement of the sub. How do you find out the speaker disposistion.

It's a 10sub, need .75cu ft sealed inclosure, and the spec sheat says that the speaker disp is .06 cu ft, which seem to small of a number.
 
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Old May 31, 2001 | 01:33 PM
  #18  
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Just add .75 + .06 = .81 cubic foot enclosure with maximum power tough. How much power does the sub handle RMS, and how much power does the amp put out RMS. If the subs only getting half the RMS power then you should make the box larger to compensate for the lack of power. If you have enough or more power then make the box .81 cubic feet.


NOSTROMO: Nope she still goes down the track with me everytime I race. Maybe one of these days I'll do a Johnny Lightning gut job to see what I can get out of her with the bare minimum, but for now my truck does mid twelves all day without the NOS, and will probably go a high 11 with a 50 shot and the right wether. so for a 5050LB truck to do that is pretty damn inpressive. Plus I know how fast it is when I'm driving on the street and some punk in a viper or vetter wants to mess with the beast, HAHAHAHA.



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Old May 31, 2001 | 01:34 PM
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That displacement seems about right; if you imagine the cubic area displaced by the volume of the cone, the basket and the magnet structure, it's really not so much...

Let's see how my HS Geometry comes thru here;

A 10" driver, for argument's sake, has a cone with radius of about 4.5".... It's roughly 2.5" deep.... math, math, math..

<60 cu inches; divide by 1728, and you get ~.04 cu ft.

Sounds like your figures are close enough for Car Audio.

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