Post your battery relocation set-up's
#31
Originally Posted by Ct.TOPGUN
I have the new JDM setup on mine. It looks professional, fairly easy to service, and puts the weight where I want it. The shutoff and charging posts are behind the plate.
I will post pics of a lot of new, and neat things when my truck is back.
Jim
I will post pics of a lot of new, and neat things when my truck is back.
Jim
Cant find it on their site.
#33
Originally Posted by Master Of Pain
I'd love to do this for weight distribution and cleaning up the engine bay. Is there a general kit or do you have to assemble a collage of parts?
#34
#35
#36
#37
Mine is right where it always was
Rich (Hostile) just priced out the JDM set up, it was very expensive but it's a very nice set up.
Since it's going under the vehicle or in the bed (out of site) personally I couldnt give a Rats A$$ what it looks like. And since I dont bracket race or even race too often I never planned to do it (although I would like to get a Canton Alum Tank to put where the Batt is now). If I ever do move mine I'll go inside the Bed and keep it simple (prob rear right side to offset the weight of the N20 Bottle rear left side). For anyone looking for an inexpensive way out you can get the Complete Mr Gasket set up for 79.95, Complete Box Kit + Cable Kit, (picture shows the Post's and Cut Off Switch too ???)
OR
NHRA / IHRA approved MR Gasket set up for 224.85 (94.95 + 94.95 + 34.95)
I hate giving this link but you cant beat their prices and I've been using them for years
Rich (Hostile) just priced out the JDM set up, it was very expensive but it's a very nice set up.
Since it's going under the vehicle or in the bed (out of site) personally I couldnt give a Rats A$$ what it looks like. And since I dont bracket race or even race too often I never planned to do it (although I would like to get a Canton Alum Tank to put where the Batt is now). If I ever do move mine I'll go inside the Bed and keep it simple (prob rear right side to offset the weight of the N20 Bottle rear left side). For anyone looking for an inexpensive way out you can get the Complete Mr Gasket set up for 79.95, Complete Box Kit + Cable Kit, (picture shows the Post's and Cut Off Switch too ???)
OR
NHRA / IHRA approved MR Gasket set up for 224.85 (94.95 + 94.95 + 34.95)
I hate giving this link but you cant beat their prices and I've been using them for years
#38
Well I've decided to go ahead and do this. I'm going to start putting everything together so I'll have all the right stuff when it comes time for the install. Where is a good place to get welding cable? And how much should I get?
Which would be better for what I'm trying to do? 0-gauge or 1-gauge?
Also, does anyone have any updated information on the new NHRA rules for the battery kill switch? I don't want to buy the wrong thing and have to replace it later.
Which would be better for what I'm trying to do? 0-gauge or 1-gauge?
Also, does anyone have any updated information on the new NHRA rules for the battery kill switch? I don't want to buy the wrong thing and have to replace it later.
#42
#43
Originally Posted by chesster51
Does the JDM kit come complete with cables and switch? I emailed them for info and pricing a couple of days ago and have not heard back yet. I noticed Summit carries a cable kit in 1 gauge.
#44
Originally Posted by SWThomas
I emailed them yesterday and haven't heard anything either. Someone said that they no longer sell the battery kit. Also, the cable you can buy from Summit is just regular battery cable. If you can, try to get your hands on some welding cable. That's what I'm going to do. It's suppose to be a lot better than regular battery cable.
http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/index...ROD&ProdID=808
That should work nicely, with some crimped and soldered connectors.
#45
Originally Posted by B-Man
This is where I buy a lot of electronic goodies... I found this listing for very flexible 1/0 cable on their site:
http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/index...ROD&ProdID=808
That should work nicely, with some crimped and soldered connectors.
http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/index...ROD&ProdID=808
That should work nicely, with some crimped and soldered connectors.