Problem with fuel cooler is you are dealing with a high flow rate on EFI. Cool cans worked when you had a carb with very slow fuel travel rates. I do like the look of the setup though.

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BABolt
SVT#290

 

BA

You are right, these might work well inline with the Intercooler though.....

Doug

 

I like these cool cans. They may come under the "Stroker McGirk" Rule though. "If one is good, two is better, and three may be just enough!"
noelvm

 

I have the fans and the brackets that I want to get rid of at half the price of what I have in them of coarse my local guys have first dibs but if they aren't interested then they are up for grabs.
E-mail me HIGHRISK22@webtv.net
I think that metal tubing in the cooler is important to mention. I used plastic and does not transfer heat nearly as well.

HIGH RISK

 

The biggest size on the lines in these cool cans is 1/2". These hoses look like they are probably 5/8" ID. If so this would be a restriction, something I don't think you would want in the system.
noelvm

Of course you could make one with tubing than would match the ID of the hose. Does Anyone know, off hand, what the ID of these intercooler hoses is? If not I will take one off tomorrow morning and find out.

Can you run dry ice in the cool can at the drag strip, legally?


[This message has been edited by noelvm (edited 09-11-2000).]

 

HighRisk! Are you saying you tried the fans and saw no noticeable improvement? Did you also have a switch on your pump?

 

Hey Guys!
If you do the heat exchanger there are thing you have to remember--- time, flow rate, material and surface area are very important. As Bob noted if you use plastic or braid lines you will sacrifice heat transfer also the length and diameter of you tube is critical for time and surface area. Tubing material is important because you have to worry about the effects of time and vibration. You did take steps to isolate vibrations within the tubes in your heat exchanger. If not look for fatigue then failure over time.

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BABolt
SVT#290

 

What has the best heat transfer rate?
Stainless
Copper
Aluminum

 

Copper. Plus depending on the type it will not work harden like the other two.

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BABolt
SVT#290

 

PFM claims to have intercooler that replaces stock unit under the intake. The kicker is it uses the freon from the AC unit to cool. Its been done in boats for years and would easily cool air temp 30 degrees below ambient. I was at Paxton when the rep from PFM said it exists. I am looking into to see if it's more then HOUDINI himself. Stay tuned?

 

Noelvm,
Yes I've tried the fans. They are helpful cooling things down in the staging lanes. The problem is they pull alot of current (20 amps) and if run too long will drain the battery. I have found it better to run the ice box and just the I.C. pump. The pump can be run for hours without draining the battery. I have had the pump hooked up for manual operation for almost a year now. The fans are an easier bolt on and don't require running lines or messing with the ice then water.

HIGH RISK

 

For you guys who are cooling with a kit in the back bed, I guess you had to cut a coulple of holes in it for the hoses, right?

 

Noel
You do not have to cut any holes. There are two access holes at the back of the bed and you can use a bulkhead fitting with 90 degree AN fittings to bring the lines in and out. In fact you don't even need to use braided stainless. You can use Aeroquip's Marine line of hoses with the AN fittings. Makes for a very clean install.

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BABolt
SVT#290

 

Hey BA,
You probably have an idea of what the flow rate is. Can you estimate what 12" of 5/8" copper tubing in a cool can with ice would lower the temp of the contained liquid.
Noel

HIGHRISK, Duh!!!!!!Didn't consider battery drain. Hello, Hello.....
Thanks,
noelvm



[This message has been edited by noelvm (edited 09-12-2000).]

 

BA,
Did you put a bypass under the hood to jump out the extra cooling system?
Noelvm