Input on CAM's needed
Originally Posted by BigBobsL
I would start with the usual ~2400 rpm stall. It will like actually stall a bit higher with the amount of torque you must be generating with that much boost and stock cam and heads and 3.55 gears. If you go built motor with cams, etc you can decide then if you want the stall a bit higher with your free stall change.
With you doing a converter, I would also suggest going to a bigger mod valve. FT uses a relatively small 0.427" steel valve. I have used 0.500" valves http://www.powerglide.com/parts/parts/96948-05K.htm or http://www.suncoastconverters.com/fo..._products.html and toying with replacing it with a 0.670" valve http://www.suncoastconverters.com/fo..._products.html . The looser the converter, the less the mod valve will shock the tires and you at least until converter locks. You will want to keep line pressure/ "shift timing" closer to stock with these valves to keep shifts from being too firm, but that is also easier on the pump.
Presume Terry is doing your tuning and other work, someone has done a good job of making power and keeping your motor together.
With you doing a converter, I would also suggest going to a bigger mod valve. FT uses a relatively small 0.427" steel valve. I have used 0.500" valves http://www.powerglide.com/parts/parts/96948-05K.htm or http://www.suncoastconverters.com/fo..._products.html and toying with replacing it with a 0.670" valve http://www.suncoastconverters.com/fo..._products.html . The looser the converter, the less the mod valve will shock the tires and you at least until converter locks. You will want to keep line pressure/ "shift timing" closer to stock with these valves to keep shifts from being too firm, but that is also easier on the pump.
Presume Terry is doing your tuning and other work, someone has done a good job of making power and keeping your motor together.

Mark


