Give me some advise. I am in the process of building my engine and I am upgrading the heads and cams. I am going to get some Stage II heads and I just ordered some Stage II Crower cam's. The lift on the Stage II Crowers is 581 in and out. Is that too much lift even with upgraded springs? I am concerned about this because some of the guys on NLOC are saying that is too much lift and will wear out the valve springs eventually. Any of you guys using these cam's?

 

call crowers(comp or crane) help line and they will go through a bunch of ?'s answer them honestly and they will get you set up with the proper cams. more often than not people put more cam than needed/wanted just because so and so is running it. i spec'd out my cams thru crane and they are nowhere near a stage 1,2 or 3 cam.

 

I just did a little research....(Called Crower & Called my tuner). The Crower Stage II's will in fact wear out the valve springs...... if the springs are stock. Crower actually recommends upgraded springs with these cams. Both sources told me that the only problem I will have with these cams is keeping traction. My plan all along was to get Stage II heads with upgraded springs. So I was worried a little from hearing all these things, but i'm not anymore. Just thought I would share.

 

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=brows...tType=camshaft

This one works very well. Presently using Crower/Manley springs and my power peak with ported Eaton and 15# boost was at 5300 rpm with little power fall off even at 6,000 rpm.

 

Those have pretty much the same specs as the comp cams XE278AH's. I bet they sound good too.

 

More lift, slightly less duration and overlap. Great sounding idle but still maintain 12" vacuum at idle. Serious power for level of mods.

 

Hi Bob,
Mark#2 here from Talon, are your referring to your cams or the XE cams? What would you recommend for me with a KB at 18 psi and a stock long block?
TIA

 

Man, your going to run that much boost on a stock long block??? I hope you were joking...

 

Been running that much for over two years, 100s of passes down the 1/4.

 

Mark#2 - First, congratulations on keeping that combo together, obviosly you have a safe tune and not experiencing detonation.

I was referring to my cams as compared to the XE278. I started with custom ground Crower of my design, Crower later made it a shelf grind and called it their Crower Stage III N/A. I later discovered they ground the LSA wrong (121 degrees) on one of the cams and switched to the referenced Crane grind with essentially the same specs since Crower would not replace the bad cam.

This grind would do very well with your combo, but also would more quickly bring about the eventual demise of your stock long block since they will bump up your power still further and allow you to make power at higher rpm. You have got to be making about all the power your stock rods want to put up with. As much work as it is to change springs (required) with motor in the truck, this is likely a change you should do when you go to a built motor.

 

Thanks, running 11.3 A/F and yes on the rods at over 500 HP, but these are 2000 rods so way stronger.

I have a built short block on a stand knowing that over 2 years of this is bound to end sometime. Talon stock block champion and am just pushing the limits. I still have a stock tranny and 3.55 gears so I might put a converter in instead(recommendation on converter)?.
Mark

 

I just got a PI Converter. They are the best around. A little pricey but you get what you pay for.

 

PI here as well. I started out with a modified stock converter and it got great 60' numbers, but was slow on reaction time. The PI provides great reaction times, a 0.1 improvement over the other converter. While I am sure there are other excellent converters around, PI does great, has a good warranty, and you get one free stall speed change. Already used my free change.

Checked out your numbers and you are indeed doing good. A converter should net you close to a 0.1 sec reduction in 60' and ET. If you do not have a shift kit, suggest at least a 0.500" mod valve. PI will come with a small spring to improve converter lockup.

 

Thanks again, I have FTVB, so not quite stock. I will go with PI what stall would you recommend? I'll quit bugging you soon.

 

I would start with the usual ~2400 rpm stall. It will like actually stall a bit higher with the amount of torque you must be generating with that much boost and stock cam and heads and 3.55 gears. If you go built motor with cams, etc you can decide then if you want the stall a bit higher with your free stall change.

With you doing a converter, I would also suggest going to a bigger mod valve. FT uses a relatively small 0.427" steel valve. I have used 0.500" valves http://www.powerglide.com/parts/parts/96948-05K.htm or http://www.suncoastconverters.com/fo..._products.html and toying with replacing it with a 0.670" valve http://www.suncoastconverters.com/fo..._products.html . The looser the converter, the less the mod valve will shock the tires and you at least until converter locks. You will want to keep line pressure/ "shift timing" closer to stock with these valves to keep shifts from being too firm, but that is also easier on the pump.

Presume Terry is doing your tuning and other work, someone has done a good job of making power and keeping your motor together.