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Old Oct 26, 2005 | 10:31 AM
  #31  
Derek94's Avatar
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From: MD
Dont pay the 5500 for the ford replacement long block. You'll be much h appier in the long run if you grab up either a JLP shortblock, or longblock w/ the ported heads, etc. And it really wont cost you anymore than the dealer replacement. Much better in my opinion. I think JLP has a sale on the shortblocks running right now. 3400? i think.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2005 | 11:02 AM
  #32  
wydopnthrtl's Avatar
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From: SE Mich
Originally Posted by Derek94
Dont pay the 5500 for the ford replacement long block. You'll be much h appier in the long run if you grab up either a JLP shortblock, or longblock w/ the ported heads, etc. And it really wont cost you anymore than the dealer replacement. Much better in my opinion. I think JLP has a sale on the shortblocks running right now. 3400? i think.
I fully agree! At this point it's very little extra cost to go with a built short block.

On a side note: It's VERY important to find out why this happened! Even if they don't cover the cost, pick the Ford reps brain as to why this happened and how to prevent it from happening again. Sometimes they know an awfull lot and can be very helpfull. Just remember their job is to not only "deny" claims. But to help make things right and prevent it from happening again.

Rich
 
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Old Oct 26, 2005 | 03:13 PM
  #33  
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What a great set up; Tuners sell the tunes that blow the engines and then get the sale for the replacement motor. In the meantim, so many try to stiff Ford for the replacement engines. Its amazing how many similar threads like this are out there.'
 
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Old Oct 26, 2005 | 04:20 PM
  #34  
rocketir's Avatar
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From: San Jose, California, U.S.A.
Originally Posted by TrackBeast
What a great set up; Tuners sell the tunes that blow the engines and then get the sale for the replacement motor. In the meantim, so many try to stiff Ford for the replacement engines. Its amazing how many similar threads like this are out there.'
Hard to blame the tuner when you don't know all the facts. However these types of threads do show up more often once the cool weather arrives. I think that it may be time for the winter tune for some people.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2005 | 04:25 PM
  #35  
Bootbox's Avatar
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From: TX
I read this thread and pulled 2 degrees from my tune, added a little WOT fuel too. It's getting real cold around here in the morning and late night... 34-40 degrees etc...

Truck still feels fast even with the timing removed.

 
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Old Oct 26, 2005 | 04:39 PM
  #36  
brain bypass's Avatar
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From: houston, tx
am i wrong, but are "winter tunes" not necessary?

i thought the main problems with cold air, is the possibility of the MAF pegging, and the timing advacing further than desired due to it not being set right in the tune. i know the timing is controlled by iat2 temps and load, and can get retarded in the warmer months due to high iat2 temps. If somehow the max advance is not set right in the tune, then it can advance beyond the desired max advance.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2005 | 04:52 PM
  #37  
Bootbox's Avatar
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I always thought it was more of a case of "lots of cold dense air = sudden lean condition" and that with a bunch of timing (I had 19 deg before I pulled some) you were just asking for trouble. I don't claim to know a lot about tuning though.

Sure does seem like a LOT of people grenade their stock blocks the moment it gets cold out though.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2005 | 06:04 PM
  #38  
brain bypass's Avatar
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From: houston, tx
but the computer knows the mass of air coming in until the maf is pegged. i think in the colder temps mafs that don't normally peg with warmer air do peg because of the increase in the density of the air. the motor can only pull in a certain volume of air. when the air is colder, that same volume has a larger mass. the maf calculates this and should compensate for it, until it goes off the scale. that is my understanding of the system at least.
 
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