i ordered my air intake today and they said the crank pully comes with bearings,tools,rods and cost is $299. they also said it would work good with the intake but, would not give much more boost when used with the intake so all together it will be 2-3lbs, which is not more than just the air intake.

 

for that price it had better increase the hp 25-30 hp at the wheels!!! I dont care about boost just power, lets see them post some hp gains. And I want to see some dyno proven sheets w/ & w/out mods to it.

 

asdfasfd

 

do you mean 2-3 lbs of boost total between the intake and the pulley? Or the pulley alone will be good for 2-3 lbs. Has anyone considered if there will be enough fuel to compensate for the extra 2-3lbs of boost? What fuel pressure does the lightning run at static? How much does the fuel pump flow? Maybe a aftermarket efi pump will be neccessary. And how about timing? Does the computer compensate for boost pressures above 8-9lbs? Will it pull timing back? We are talking about some serious cylinder pressure here!probably in the 18:1 mark! Any comments

 

yes i said 2-3lbs total. he said that its like regular upgrades: filter10hp, headers20hp,chip15hp .just like if you did all the above, obviously you would not get45hp total . he said they will work together but both wont make much more difference than just one. which kinda makes sense.im sticking with the intake only. that way for warranty its easier to disconnect than a pully. he said the pully is an envolved job. i bet it is for $299. i called to order both figuring $200-$225,when he told me 299 just for pully i said just send me the intake. it seems this is absolutley the best hp/boost for the money.i think with chip and intake you would probally not notice the pully at all.and it sounds alot safer to do chip/intake so the s/c doesnt overrevve.plus with the chip it brings the s/c up in rpms sround 5600 rpm. this would give more revolutions of thre s/c enough. if you do the crank and chip (up 400rpms) and intake i think it would be a strain on the motor and s/c.

 

n20boy
You could try the Kenne Bell Boost-a-pump. It does a good job and you can dial it in when you need it. As for timing changes you will have to address those issues with a chip. These are Ford vehicles not GM, so no Bmap sensors to pull timing. Anyone want to switch to DFI?

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BABolt
SVT#290

 

Too technical for my eyes at 10pm. I'm getting tired.

If it works like my Vortech system did, the fuel regulator will sense added boost and increase fuel pressure. From what I understand, our L's have 42lb injectors and if you do the math on these, they should work up to about 500hp give or take--its too late to do the exact math. Of course, this is all related to fuel pressure also, and I see your point about outrunning the stock fuel pump(s).

I'm sure Ford build in enough cushion for this small amount of boost. Then again, I could be wrong. I'm sure Down's Ford would know the answer and would not build a pulley if there wasn't enough fuel to compensate.

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JIGAWATT SVT#2698
N.L.O.C. Member
4:10's
Bassani kit
TransGo shift kit
AIM 2 inch drop shackle

 

After reading this I think I might just do that. We install accell dfi systems on all our turbo cars we build. Much more tunable, easy to map and all otheritems such as timing ,etc,etc can be played with...
oky doky

 

damn now i cant remember what size the 2 yes count them (2) fuel pumps are but they will handle all the power you will put into it!

 

The fuel pumps are dual 155s..

Brad

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* 99.5 Black Lightning
* Factory CD Changer
* Class 3 Towing Hitch
* Factory Tonneau Cover
* 8" Bazooka Tubs
* Kenwood 80 watt *2 amp
* 50% Window Tint
* Viper 550 Alarm w/ remort start
* 98 Yamaha Banshee w/ Toomey T5 Chrome pipes often found in the bed..

Injection is nice, but I'd rather be blown. 99 Lightning, the best of both worlds!

 

$299 is an outrageous price for that mod. You're talking about a $50 pulley, along with some installation hardware. Hardly worth that kind of money.

As for there being some overlap effect between the pulley and the intake kit, resulting in no increased boost by adding the pulley, I would seriously doubt it. Put the intake kit on, if you gain 2 psi. more, that means the blower is producing 10 psi at ~11,000 rpms. You didn't really increase the boost that the supercharger is making, just freed up some of it that was being lost to intake restrictions.

It's kind of like installing an underdrive crank pulley on a normal car. It doesn't really add horsepower, it just frees some of the load from the motor, making more of the horsepower available.

Anyway, back to our trucks. If you install a pulley after the filter kit, you'll increase the RPM of the SC and, of course, more air is going to be drawn in, with a corresponding increase in the amount of boost produced. Unlike the extra boost from the filter kit though, the boost produced by the pulley will come with an increase in air temperature of 30-50 degrees depending on the amount of extra boost created.

 

To the technical experts on this board...Please explain how an air cleaner raises boost 2-3 psi?

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HotRodSix
'98 STX Flairside 4.2L
Best 1/4: 16.26 sec. @ 84.4 mph
Dyno: 180 rwhp / 228 ft-lb

 

I am no expert but i would say the stock intake is restictive and the supercharger can only pull in so much air.so the aftermaket lets more air in so the supercharger pulls more air into the motorg giving more boost.

 

HotRodSix,
I think they are seeing more manifold pressure, because of the air box inlet restriction. I’m guessing that there is a large vacuum in filter/air box assemble (under boost), that the inlet of stock air box can not feed fast enough, meaning the efficiency of the air box falls of significantly, at around 6-8 psi (gauge boost). I assume the Maximum manifold pressure is higher because, instead of sucking air from the air box (which can only supply so much air), they are now sucking air from a nearly infinite space, i.e. near ambient.
They see more boost because now the supercharger is breathing near ambient pressure at higher boost levels. So the intake (pre-intercooler/lower manifold) is working more efficiently.

This seemed so much simpler in my head, hope this is understandable.

 

While a filter alone could produce some difference, the systems that were being talked about here are the full intake/filter setups. The rubber/plastic intake tube along with the factory filter and airbox setup is what would be replaced.

Replacing this with an aftermarket system doesn't create boost, it just lowers the restriction in the intake tract so that the SC can take in more air, thus showing an increase in pressure at the manifold. If you were to set up one of these motors on a stand, and you didn't have a filter or anything connected to the motor, and you eliminated the factory intercooler, the Eaton SC would probably produce 12-13 psi. of boost at ~11,000 RPMs. If you then added the factory intercooler, there would be a reduction in the amount of boost produced, even though the SC would still be spinning at the same RPM. Going farther, when you add the factory intake setup, with the factory filter and airbox, there would be an additional boost loss, due to further restricting the flow of air to the SC. For a practical example of this, turn on your home vacuum and then block half of the intake hose. The air velocity increases, but the total CFM of air intake is reduced, even though the Vacuum is still working just as hard. That's the same effect that the factory filter/intake setup has.

When someone installs a system like the PSP kit, you aren't actually adding any boost, just undoing some of the restriction that had lowered the boost levels in the first place. You could go even farther and remove the intercooler, but that would be a mistake. While an intercooler may produce a drop of ~2-3 psi of boost, the cooling effect that it has on the intake charge more than makes up for the loss of boost. For every 10 degrees drop in temperature in the intake charge, there is ~1% increase in horsepower. I don't know how efficient our factory systems are, but for my Typhoon, there were systems available that could easily reduce the intake air temperature by 70 degrees. The absolute best system that I have ever seen could actually reduce the intake air temp. by 65 degrees over AMBIENT, which is already far lower than the intake air temp. after compression. The intercooler actually developed frost on it during a summer day. Now that's horsepower.

I didn't have time to go back and review all of my sentences to make sure that they all make sense, or that all my spelling is correct, but I hope that this helps. I had a bigger, better post prepared, but I miskeyed my password so I lost the whole thing.


[This message has been edited by Typhoon (edited 01-01-2000).]