From center for fender is exactly 17", but i haven't driven it around so I don't know if the stock spring will resettle any. The sleeve is 2 5/8".

 

Thanks for all the information. I am going to put my money on you solving the problem and going to drop mine off to get powder coated tomorrow morning. Thanks for the updates.

 

Excellent. The difference between your end links and the stock ones is exactly 3/4".

To test that the stock links would work add 8 washers of equal thickness to the ones on your end links on each side of your sleeve. So 4 on each side of the sleeve.
If I'm right, your clearance issue should be solved.

TB

 

u sound like you know what you are talking about!!! want to come help me install? cold beer in the frig.

do you think you would have this issue with the stock sway bar and end links?

 

Hmmm beer Now that's a real incentive...

The Hothkis bar is quite a bit bigger than stock 38mm vs 31mm. If this works, the stock stuff should fit like a glove.

TB

 

Forget about your sway bar effectiveness -- get the clearance issues solved first.

End links are really overplayed in importance on these boards. Think about how a stabilizer works. The part in the middle is subjected to twisting forces from the arms on the end. Adjustable bars move the hole on the end of the bar in and out, which changes the effective length of the arms, which in turn changes how much torque those arms are allowed to assert on the part in the middle.



Using the outermost hole results in more twisting force being applied, which results in more sway allowed. Using the innermost hole is the opposite, resulting in the stiffest bar with the least sway.

But within a few inches of horizontal, just changing the end link length really won't do squat. And if anything, getting the bar off of level will increase the bar's rate, not decrease it.

I would get the suspension operating without binding anywhere in its range of movement and worry about getting the damn stablizer level later, if ever. And while you are in there, don't forget to grease the stabilizer D bushings. Those mothers can seize up tight.

 

Ok, after playing with it and everyones encouragement I'll try 3/4" to 1" longer endlinks. That solves one problem but i still have to deal with the castle nut not clearing the rim and I can't afford to buy bigger wheels. Belltech didn't call me back so they'll be hearing from me first thing in the morning.

halflife, before you powder coat them I test fit the brake calipers some how. I had to grind down the casting on the lower ear just a little get the bolt hole to lineup.

 

Thanks for the heads up, i brought them with me to drop off but I guess i will wait to test fit this weekend.

 

Do you have aftermarket calipers?

 

They are stock calipers. Spoke with Belltech again and they are going to send out some slim nuts for the lower ball joint to solve that clearance problem so we'll see if that works.

 

Yikes !!! This is unbelievable ... Is it becuase the Lightning is
already lowered two inches from the normal F150?

Good Luck with the fitment ... And make sure the "thin" nut is a castle nut also !

 

I believe Lightnings are only lowered an inch (over a stock F-150) from the factory.
However, that, plus the larger brakes, sound like a problem for the spindles.

 

The brakes wouldn't effect the location of that nut on the spindle...but I guess the Lightning spindles are not the same as regular F150s.

--Dan

 

I was also referring to his statement that he had to grind on the calipers for clearance.

The spindles may be different, but also remember that the lower control arm is Lightning specific (mine even has an SVT sticker on it, if I remember correctly) - maybe that has something to do with the way it all fits. I'd like to see a stock F-150 side-by-side.

 

the main difference is steering stops to keep the wide wheel/tire package from hitting the tie rod