32V Twin Turbo 5.4L Project - Pics and Commentary
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From: Arkansas
By popular demand, here's a video of it reving a bit.
http://www.ayresweb.com/01L/TT32V/99...Engine_rev.AVI
http://www.ayresweb.com/01L/TT32V/99...Engine_rev.AVI
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From: Arkansas
OK, here's a rundown of what happened Friday when it was started the 1st time. I figured it would fire right up after Thursday evenings fuel pump fiasco being fixed. I cranked it over a few times (now having fuel pressure) and it wasn't firing. Found that I hadn't connected the crank position sensor. 
Tried it again and it bumped on the 1st crank, fired right up on the second crank. I heard an odd sound and shut it off, then immediately cranked it up again. The sound is kind of a metallic sound that is coming from the torque converter/flywheel area. It doesn't do it all the time, and always goes away when it's put in gear. It's not there in park all the time either. It seems to do it more when it's cold.
OK, after I let it idle for a few minutes and warm up to operating temp the 1st time, we noticed a small puddle of oil dripping from the back passenger side of the engine. After looking around quite a while We couldn't really see where it was coming from. I started it up and heat cycled it a couple more times and we didn't get any more oil. We decided it had to be coming from the head gasket. I started pulling the valve cover to check the head stud torque, while rmfreeze and another buddy put my bed, bumper, and rear wheels back on. I can tell you this much, checking the torque on the head studs after it has heat cycled is definitely a worthwhile thing to do. I only got a little more turn on some of the studs, none on some. But, when I got to the two studs on the very rear of the passenger head, #7 was a bit looser than the others, and #8 was REALLY loose. I'd say somewhere around 30ftlb if I were guessing, almost like I missed it on my second torque sequence. I went ahead and did the drivers side again just to make sure they were all OK. Only got a little on most of those, none on some.
I got my Expedition cruise cable and throttle cables on today. The throttle cable is about 1" too long on the pedal end, but all I need is one of those little things you slip on a cable and turn a set screw to fix that. I've "made" it work with some creative ZIP tie usage until I get one. The cruise cable looks to be fine, I'll know for sure once I drive it tomorrow.
The only thing now that bothers me is that kind of a ting, ting, ting sound coming from the torque converter/flywheel area. It's defintely something in that area since it goes away when I put it in gear. When I put it back in park after that sometimes it's gone, sometimes it's not. Anybody have any ideas?
I'll be putting the finishing touches on it tomorrow, and driving it to the turbo shop Monday.
Tried it again and it bumped on the 1st crank, fired right up on the second crank. I heard an odd sound and shut it off, then immediately cranked it up again. The sound is kind of a metallic sound that is coming from the torque converter/flywheel area. It doesn't do it all the time, and always goes away when it's put in gear. It's not there in park all the time either. It seems to do it more when it's cold.OK, after I let it idle for a few minutes and warm up to operating temp the 1st time, we noticed a small puddle of oil dripping from the back passenger side of the engine. After looking around quite a while We couldn't really see where it was coming from. I started it up and heat cycled it a couple more times and we didn't get any more oil. We decided it had to be coming from the head gasket. I started pulling the valve cover to check the head stud torque, while rmfreeze and another buddy put my bed, bumper, and rear wheels back on. I can tell you this much, checking the torque on the head studs after it has heat cycled is definitely a worthwhile thing to do. I only got a little more turn on some of the studs, none on some. But, when I got to the two studs on the very rear of the passenger head, #7 was a bit looser than the others, and #8 was REALLY loose. I'd say somewhere around 30ftlb if I were guessing, almost like I missed it on my second torque sequence. I went ahead and did the drivers side again just to make sure they were all OK. Only got a little on most of those, none on some.
I got my Expedition cruise cable and throttle cables on today. The throttle cable is about 1" too long on the pedal end, but all I need is one of those little things you slip on a cable and turn a set screw to fix that. I've "made" it work with some creative ZIP tie usage until I get one. The cruise cable looks to be fine, I'll know for sure once I drive it tomorrow.
The only thing now that bothers me is that kind of a ting, ting, ting sound coming from the torque converter/flywheel area. It's defintely something in that area since it goes away when I put it in gear. When I put it back in park after that sometimes it's gone, sometimes it's not. Anybody have any ideas?
I'll be putting the finishing touches on it tomorrow, and driving it to the turbo shop Monday.
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From: cedar grove wv
dust shield rubbing the flexplate?Did you seat the converter in the tranny enough before installing it or did you have the proper clearance 1/8 to 3/16 between converter and flexplate before bolting it up.If not it maybe the front tranny pump eating itself.
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From: Arkansas
No videos or pics, but I drove the truck for the first time in 2.5 months last night. It sure felt good. 
The issue with the metallic ting ting sound I believe was coming from the metal plate that goes between the engine and tranny (looks like you win the prize booger.) I did a little tweaking on it and everything seems OK now. The truck pulls strong naturally aspirated, and easily gets a 2nd gear scratch even on the part throttle runs I was doing. It's definitely louder than I first thought it was. Going down the road with the exhaust existing right under the cab makes for a pretty loud drone.
The only issue I ran into is that it was wanting to run about 210-215 degrees ECT even though the outside temp was somewhere around 75. Doing a few searches on modularfords and modulardepot leads me to believe I may need to bleed my coolant system again to eliminate any air pockets I might have.
I hooked up a real oil pressure gauge in my pillar pod Sunday as well, and it's definitely adequately lubricated. Cold start oil pressure is about 90psi. Warm in park it's running about 50, and warm in gear it's about 37.5. This is with a Modular Mustang Racing race prepped pump and pickup tube.
I loaded up my front bumper, fender liners, intercooler, polished turbo housings, etc. into the bed for the trip to the turbo shop today. It's getting a lot closer now. I was able to breathe a big sigh of relief this weekend since it all came together fairly smooth and it's running well. I was so happy to drive it again last night I almost don't want to drop it off to get the turbos put on.
The issue with the metallic ting ting sound I believe was coming from the metal plate that goes between the engine and tranny (looks like you win the prize booger.) I did a little tweaking on it and everything seems OK now. The truck pulls strong naturally aspirated, and easily gets a 2nd gear scratch even on the part throttle runs I was doing. It's definitely louder than I first thought it was. Going down the road with the exhaust existing right under the cab makes for a pretty loud drone.The only issue I ran into is that it was wanting to run about 210-215 degrees ECT even though the outside temp was somewhere around 75. Doing a few searches on modularfords and modulardepot leads me to believe I may need to bleed my coolant system again to eliminate any air pockets I might have.
I hooked up a real oil pressure gauge in my pillar pod Sunday as well, and it's definitely adequately lubricated. Cold start oil pressure is about 90psi. Warm in park it's running about 50, and warm in gear it's about 37.5. This is with a Modular Mustang Racing race prepped pump and pickup tube.
I loaded up my front bumper, fender liners, intercooler, polished turbo housings, etc. into the bed for the trip to the turbo shop today. It's getting a lot closer now. I was able to breathe a big sigh of relief this weekend since it all came together fairly smooth and it's running well. I was so happy to drive it again last night I almost don't want to drop it off to get the turbos put on.
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From: Dallas
Nicely done. Have you given any thought to a before turbo dyno?? Sure would save me some money. LOL. Just a thought since you said you are at 8 to 1. Seems to be pretty low compression to be getting a second gear scratch at part throttle. I did not realize the 5.4 4V was that much more peppy. It would be awsome for a before and after though. I will do one for sure and the folks here can get a rough idea of what 8 to 1 versus 8.5 to 1 is.
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From: houston, tx
hey shock,
i don't know if you saw neals motor thread, but he did a good job of relocating the abs module. i know you removed yours, but i don't know if you were looking for a way to make it work:
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...19#post1773019
i don't know if you saw neals motor thread, but he did a good job of relocating the abs module. i know you removed yours, but i don't know if you were looking for a way to make it work:
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...19#post1773019
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From: Arkansas
I drove the truck down and dropped it off at the shop to have the turbos plumbed up today.
Oh, and here's a logo rmfreeze found on the web today. He claims he's exposing the way I'm making money to fund my project, lol.
http://www.shocktherapy-boutique.com...store/scstore/
Oh, and here's a logo rmfreeze found on the web today. He claims he's exposing the way I'm making money to fund my project, lol.
http://www.shocktherapy-boutique.com...store/scstore/
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From: Arkansas
Originally Posted by miamijdm
Shock, Truck looks great on the floor again.. Let me know when you want to sell those wheels, Its been about 2 months, so its time for some new ones for you... lol 
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From: MD
Originally Posted by ShockTherapy
OK, here's a rundown of what happened Friday when it was started the 1st time. I figured it would fire right up after Thursday evenings fuel pump fiasco being fixed. I cranked it over a few times (now having fuel pressure) and it wasn't firing. Found that I hadn't connected the crank position sensor. Tried it again and it bumped on the 1st crank, fired right up on the second crank. I heard an odd sound and shut it off, then immediately cranked it up again. The sound is kind of a metallic sound that is coming from the torque converter/flywheel area. It doesn't do it all the time, and always goes away when it's put in gear. It's not there in park all the time either. It seems to do it more when it's cold.
OK, after I let it idle for a few minutes and warm up to operating temp the 1st time, we noticed a small puddle of oil dripping from the back passenger side of the engine. After looking around quite a while We couldn't really see where it was coming from. I started it up and heat cycled it a couple more times and we didn't get any more oil. We decided it had to be coming from the head gasket. I started pulling the valve cover to check the head stud torque, while rmfreeze and another buddy put my bed, bumper, and rear wheels back on. I can tell you this much, checking the torque on the head studs after it has heat cycled is definitely a worthwhile thing to do. I only got a little more turn on some of the studs, none on some. But, when I got to the two studs on the very rear of the passenger head, #7 was a bit looser than the others, and #8 was REALLY loose. I'd say somewhere around 30ftlb if I were guessing, almost like I missed it on my second torque sequence. I went ahead and did the drivers side again just to make sure they were all OK. Only got a little on most of those, none on some.
I got my Expedition cruise cable and throttle cables on today. The throttle cable is about 1" too long on the pedal end, but all I need is one of those little things you slip on a cable and turn a set screw to fix that. I've "made" it work with some creative ZIP tie usage until I get one. The cruise cable looks to be fine, I'll know for sure once I drive it tomorrow.
The only thing now that bothers me is that kind of a ting, ting, ting sound coming from the torque converter/flywheel area. It's defintely something in that area since it goes away when I put it in gear. When I put it back in park after that sometimes it's gone, sometimes it's not. Anybody have any ideas?
I'll be putting the finishing touches on it tomorrow, and driving it to the turbo shop Monday.
Tried it again and it bumped on the 1st crank, fired right up on the second crank. I heard an odd sound and shut it off, then immediately cranked it up again. The sound is kind of a metallic sound that is coming from the torque converter/flywheel area. It doesn't do it all the time, and always goes away when it's put in gear. It's not there in park all the time either. It seems to do it more when it's cold.OK, after I let it idle for a few minutes and warm up to operating temp the 1st time, we noticed a small puddle of oil dripping from the back passenger side of the engine. After looking around quite a while We couldn't really see where it was coming from. I started it up and heat cycled it a couple more times and we didn't get any more oil. We decided it had to be coming from the head gasket. I started pulling the valve cover to check the head stud torque, while rmfreeze and another buddy put my bed, bumper, and rear wheels back on. I can tell you this much, checking the torque on the head studs after it has heat cycled is definitely a worthwhile thing to do. I only got a little more turn on some of the studs, none on some. But, when I got to the two studs on the very rear of the passenger head, #7 was a bit looser than the others, and #8 was REALLY loose. I'd say somewhere around 30ftlb if I were guessing, almost like I missed it on my second torque sequence. I went ahead and did the drivers side again just to make sure they were all OK. Only got a little on most of those, none on some.
I got my Expedition cruise cable and throttle cables on today. The throttle cable is about 1" too long on the pedal end, but all I need is one of those little things you slip on a cable and turn a set screw to fix that. I've "made" it work with some creative ZIP tie usage until I get one. The cruise cable looks to be fine, I'll know for sure once I drive it tomorrow.
The only thing now that bothers me is that kind of a ting, ting, ting sound coming from the torque converter/flywheel area. It's defintely something in that area since it goes away when I put it in gear. When I put it back in park after that sometimes it's gone, sometimes it's not. Anybody have any ideas?
I'll be putting the finishing touches on it tomorrow, and driving it to the turbo shop Monday.
