More pictures


I have more pictures of the AEM in my gallery.
My photo gallery

 

doesn't this require a new tune because of the alteration of the MAF sensor?

 

I chose Jegs over RPM Outlet because of the terrible reviews that many on here have left for RPM Outlet customer service. I'll admit, RPM's prices are very good and their web site is very nice. They seem to have a large selection as well. I was also ordering the Dynatech long tube headers, high flow cats, and mids kit at the same time. I went ahead and ordered the Dyantech and AEM from Jegs since I have dealt with them before. It cost me more but I had everything on my door step in 2 days.

Eric

 

My understanding is that it does not require program changes.

With that said, I do plan on getting my Air/Fuel ratio checked when I go to the dyno in the near future.

 

what? how can it not require a reburn?

you are putting 90mm or 80mm electronic sensors in a 100mm opening. the Sensor measure the amount of air flow past it. by doing this you are doing one of 2 things.

1. allowing 10mm of air to sneak by without measuring it

2. measuring all the air going past the sensors, however it is being measured wrong allowing too much air to passs by.

With the cold winter temperatures here and all the threads about people blowing up their engines due to the cold temps... the very least I'd do is go to a dyno and have the a/f checked.

Knowing me I'd call my tuner and see his thoughts.

the MAF is one of the most critical parts of the a/f management. that and the O2's.

Screwing with it is not a good thing.

my 2 cents

 

Yeah I miss my AF1 and P Tube. The filter is huge and the color really sticks out. Can't get much bigger then that beast.

 

Looks very nice.

 

seat of the pants difference?

 

by my quick calulations, it is really 56% more cross-sectional area going from a 90mm diameter tube to 100mm. i would be afraid to stomp it before i checked the a/f. especially in the cold.

but with a tune to recalibrate the MAF xfer function, i would think it would help at higher power levels to keep from maxing out the MAF voltage.

 

ema100c,

How is the fit up against the TB? can that coupler be changed to another one?

Also, i see that the tube is kinda loose where it enters the heat barrier thingy. Does it rub against it?

Thanks,

 

Please post more info regarding if a reburn is necessary as I was going to install this intake also.

And by my calculations A = 3.14 * radius squared

90 mm ---- 3.14 * (45)2 = 6358.5 mm2

100 mm ---- 3.14 * (50)2 = 7850 mm2

6358.5 is 81% of 7850 which means there is a 19 % difference in cross sectional area.

Just my II CENTS

SLABMAN

 

whoops, i typed 90mm, but did the calculation for 80mm.

and it would be a 23% increase from 90mm to 100mm.
(90mm is 19% smaller than 100mm, you did it backwards. if you want to get technical)

 

The tube doesn't go all the way up flush against the TB. You install the rubber boot on the TB first and tighten it up. Then you put the tube into the rubber boot and position it with the filter on it for correct placement. The tube probably goes into the boot about an inch or so. You can adjust the tube any way you want and then tighten the hose clamp down on it. I had to play with it for a few minutes to get the tube and filter into the correct position. I guess you could use another boot but it would still need to be the same OD on either end and approx the same length. This boot just barely slips over the end of the tube and flatens out enough to fit onto the TB.

If you look at the other pictures in my gallery you will see the tube has a tab that sticks below it and is supported by a rubber mount attached to the heat shield. When you install the tube and filter you line them up so that when everything is tighted down the tube and filter can flex with the motor but not hot the hole in the heat shield or anything else.

I haven't been WOT yet since it is 30 some degrees outside today. I've never pushed it hard during winter time because of the potential lean condition. Plus, as I understand it, the PCM retards the timing a lot in cold conditions so I imagine you don't get the best reprsentation of the true performance.

When I ordered the AEM I did not know what the ID of the tube was where the MAF sensor mounts. I think its a shade under 100mm because I beleive the O.D is probably 4" (101.6 mm).
I realize the stock ID of the MAF sensor tube is 90mm. This is also another reason why I haven't gone WOT yet. I tried to call AEM today but I beleive they are closed for the holidays.
I'm going to try to talk to them in the next couple days to see what they say about it.

Eric

 

Cool, yeah i see the tab in the other pic.
Looks like a nice unit, i was going to go with teh C&L but i like this one better.

Thanks for the pics and the info.

 

I have the K&N FIPK intake and didn't get a reburn done. I called K&N and asked them about this and they said they've never heard of anybody having a reburn done just for an intake. I'm not saying they're right and you guys are wrong, but I'm just curious about the reasons why to do a reburn. Woudn't the computer compensate for the change?

Also, why did you mount the MAF sensor on the top of the intake tube? Did the directions call for this, just curious? I installed mine on the side (facing the front of the truck). Originally it was mounted on the bottom side of the intake tube (per K&N's directions) but I moved it to the side as people told me to do (something to do with moisture build-up possibly getting to the sensor).

Steve