It's quite simple Mat, some (or most) L's seem to like TR-6's,
BUT there are SOME that HATE THEM, and will run schitty with them

I already proved that to myself, no need to prove it to anyone else. I know of more than a few that had the same results too.
Look back at the day I put TR-6's in, and you'll see I immediatly
complained the second I started the truck up with them.

I won't second guess Jim's expertise, but I sure won't be running 1 range colder of a plug when I'm running 10's. AMOF I was suppose to switch to the non projectile type Denso's that are 3 zones colder, (now I run 2 zones colder), but I had spare 22's so I put them in since the other 22's lasted 3 racing seasons.

IMO EVERYONE with 4lb or more should be 2 ranges colder, plus
Denso's DO dissipate heat waaaaaay better than 20.00 Spark Plugs.

 

Just checked it, fuse is good.

 

Come on guys.

 

Did u check the relay(not sure where its located though.

 

If I were you, I would get my L towed to my mechanic's shop and let an expert figure it out. Trying to have people on here keyboard diagnose your problem is asking for trouble.

Does the shop you go to work on alot of L's and 03+ cobras? It doesn't sound like it at all.

IMO I think you're 1 step away from throwing a rod............

 

Tr6's are not the best plug for your setup. You run 206 degrees of timming and a 400 shot of juice!!! Hehe. I hear ya though. All trucks are different. Never had a problem with TR6's and i'll stick with them.

If your ic pump isn't working, that will cause severe detonation. Because the intercooler has no coolant running through it and the blower is causing it to get hot as a pistol. So you are actually blowing even hotter air into the engine, which could cause funky stuff too. Search for i/c relay and you will see pictures. Take a piece of wire and jump the terminals to see if it works or not. If it does, the relay is gone. If it doesn't, it's the pump. They are very expensive...........check ebay and the classifieds. There are some good deals.

 

How true my Brother, Ok maybe I went off a little,
SORRY EVERYONE

BINGO
I agree 100%

 

why don't you just unplug your intercooler pump connector and see if you have power when the key is on?

Did the boroscope have a built in light? the one i have at work does but its still tough to see everything perfectly, from the looks of that plug you may wish to pull the head off.

BTW I agree with rob on the tr6's - every crossreference in the book shows they are the same as a stock plug. Personally i run tr7ix = it22 and thats with only a 2#.

 

I'll check the wiring today, hopfully something is just lose or something. Thanks.

 

If you see that it is infact your IC pump not working, email me at capone@pdq.net I have a spare pump I will cut you a deal on

 

Now THAT'S what makes this a great place !!!

 

Thanks man, I think I found the problem. I hot wired the pump and it did work but there was no coolent moveing in the tank. The pump(or the motor in the pump) works, but no movement of the coolent. What could that mean?

 

The impeller is probably stripped from the shaft.Dont know if it comes apart to be fixed but i would just install a new one.Are u sure u hot wired it correct cause if u did it backwards it might be pulling the wrong way and instead of seeing the intercooler tank filling u might not see it but it can be filling from the bottom.

 

I wouldn't assume anything on the pump until you disconnect lines and make sure everything is clear and working.

You could hook up a garden hose and turn it on easy to confirm flow.

There is also a screen thing in the bottom of the intercooler resevor that could be plugged. It is gravity feed from there to the suction side of the pump.

Pinched hose?

Keep it simple and take your time. You might save some money.