I was installing a torque convertor I bought, and on the last nut when I was tighting it up the stud poped out. It broke the weld or as what I see the threads. Its a pain in the butt to remove the tranny, you guys think I can run it like this? The other 5 nuts are nice and tight. I can remove it and tig weld it back in but is a pain to re-do it again.

 

I probably wouldn't, but I don't know.

 

chances are it woudl work ok... however you have a high dollar truck, trans, and converter... even though it sucks pulling the transmission, i say do that, fix it right.. dont rig it.

 

I would not consider driving it with a stud brooken off.
Ive had plenty enough problems with convertors and transmissions over the years that I dont want to give them any more chances or reasons to go bad or break anything!

Dropping the tranny gets easier each time you do it, I know.

 

Also there is the question of balance.
With the weight of the stud and bolt missing would it through off the balance of the torue converter. If you look close at the converter you will see little divits drilled in it those divits are for balance.

Suavy

 

The balance would be an issue. Actually Suavy, the divots are locating marks to line up the floating plate when it's assembled, the balance weights are welded on by a robot on the outside diameter on tyhe seam between the cover and the impeller.

G

 

Im gonna drop it down and fix it. Just one question since you guys are talking about balance. How do you balance the oil inside the convertor??

 

How long did it take you to do the install?

 

Started on Sunday, using a regular floor jack. Its a pain in the butt, and I have to do it all over again.

 

I would assume that centrifigal force does it for you.

or you could use some wheel weights and just stuff them down your tranny's dipstick tube. I feel certain that they'll make their way into the converter eventually.

j/k

good luck.

later,
chris

 

Just a sugestion, take it to a tranny shop that makes converters and replace the coverplate (get a billet one, it IS worth the money). Re-welding it is not a good idea, it will cause the clutch surface on the other side to not be flat, it has to be flat to within a ten thousandth of an inch, and will cause early failure of the lockup clutch. At the factory, sll the machining on that surface is done after the weld for that reason. Also, if the stud is more than a few thou's out of place, you'll put an assymetric stress on the cover, which will only make it worse.

As to the balance, they're balanced when about half full, and since fluid is not compressable after it gets up to the right RPM on the balancer, it distributes itself equally inside the converter. When the truck is actually running, it's full, so it's not a problem, it's the same (really it is) as how do you balance the air in a tire.

G

 

Ummmm what are you talking about? The welding will be done on the outside of the convertor, small beads around the studs.

 

 

All this time I thought Gregg knew what he was talking about!!

 

Are you saying it mite warp, cause of the welding heat? The hub is not like the stock one, its thicker steel.