When your truck is at idle, how high/low does your a/f go.

When your driving and let of the gas, like as if you are ready to roll up to a light, how lean does your a/f show??

Also if your driving around 40 or so, and nail it, now lean does it go before it swings over to the richer numbers.

 

Don I will "try" to remember what mine reads.

At idle it goes from 14 - 17 trying to stay around 14.5 or so.

Whe slowing down under no throttle it reads around 17 maybe higher

When I go to WOT it drops very fast to 11 or so.

Hope that info helps, btw please reply back with what yours says.

 

when i first start it it goes a little rich, around 13, then over to 14/15. Then after a minute or so, it will drop every hear and again to 17ish, sometimes 18.

When I leave from a light, it will sweep over to around 16/17 real quick then back to normal.

While cruising, if i hit the gas a little it will sweep over to around 16/17 and back to normal.

If i nail it from a roll, it does the same thing, but once in wot throttle, it goes right over to 11-just under 12.

 

Sounds about normal; the lean then to rich/normal is part of how the tune is set up. There are several values in the tuning that control "tip in" fuel and spark also going from open lope to closed. Some adjustments in the tune can be made to help/fix that.

 

Mine does whats stated above, thats normal. Here's the problem I'm having. When I have my laptop hooked up to it to datalog, my RPM at idle is way of on the WBC software. My truck idles at @ 600rpm, and the software readout say @ 3500. Once I hit the throttle it jumps down and reads the correct RPM, it just happens at idle. Also I can't get the TPS to work. I have it hooked to the GRAY wire with the WHITE strip coming out of the EEC wiring harness in the engine bay. I know thats the correst wire, but I can't get it to work. Also, can someone explain to me how to hook up a switch for the internal datalogging.

 

Where do you have the RPM pickup at? Mine is at a coil pack, and is working great.

The TPS; I have mine hooked up right at the TPS sensor. It's hooked to the middle wire(not sure of the color)

On the switch; there is a wire going to the box. The instructions give information about; I remember just hooking up a simple toggle switch with a light. I believe it required a power source to turn it on which I got form under the dash.

 

Question: When you guys talk about the Wideband commander, is that the best tool to measure A/F Other than the dyno?

Does the Snap-On diagnostic tool measure A/F accurately?

thanks,
TB

 

I've never had a Snap On Diagnostic tool, but dont' think it measures A/F.

A wideband is the only real way to measure A/F. And an autometer A/F guage is not going to work; they are simply a light show. A true wideband will cost at the very least $300; a dynojet widebandcommander retails for a little over $500. Dynojet, LM1, FJO, and many more make them. I have had a FJO, and now a Dynojet. A friend has a LM1, and I think the Dynojet is hands down the best out there right now.

 

I have the RPM pickup on the #8 coil pack. From what I read before I purchased thw WBC that was the cleanest place to install it.

The middle wire on the TPS is gray with white stripe, thats the same one I hooked mine too. The reason I went to the harness was for the hidden effect.

I have a toggle switch ready to install, but I usually don't do any "electrical" stuff on my truck. On the back of the switch are 3 connections: Power, Load, & Ground. Power & ground are obvious, but what about load. Is that where I connect it to the WBC?

 

Yep, you got it.

When the switch is 'ON" the 12V is allowed to connect to pin 2 where the Brown wire from the commander is connected. The groung pin is only there to let the light work (I think).

I just went through all this yesterday on mine. I used the Flush mount lighted switch that was suggested on here. I looked at it for over an hour before I got the nards to drill a 15/16 blindlly in the side of my steering column pod. I picked up the RPM and the TPS in the same spot you did.

I gotta say - THIS THING IS COOL!

Good Luck,
Herb

 

Thanks for the fast reply Herb. I think I got the same switch as you, and I guess everybody else. I did the same thing, stared at it for a while trying to justify drilling a huge hole to mount it.

Any ideas why mine isn't reading the TPS. I triple checked the d@mn thing, but can't get it to work.

 

Double check your grounds. I grounded both leads to the metal frame above and to the right of the fuseblock (also where I grounded my other gauges). After my install, I found the Tech Tips on the Wideband Cmmander website. They mention a suggested grounding spot for each of the two ground wires. As I was already done, and mine worked, I have not yet move these grounds.

The site is www.widebandcommander.com

Also double check that yout tap connection are in good and tight and deeply engaged. I found that the spade terminal kept wanting to push to one side of the housing and not go into the tap slot, but along side it.


Good luck,
Herb

 

I would love to be able to monitor my A/F and engine functions. I'm new to these tools.

Does anybody have experience with the LM-1 A/F- datalogger monitor? It was awarded "Best New Product Sema Show 2003".

TB

 

Do you by chance have a pic of what switch you are talking about?

 

No sweat Madness,

It's not 'my' switch, but it's the same I used...


https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...r&pagenumber=2

ShockTheropy's post - 3rd one down.

You've got to be delibrate with the location to be behind the gauge (I trimmed the mounting studs), above the stock column cover and still on a relatively flat area.

Herb