New From Magnum & JDM
Originally posted by TampaBlack99
Just get it polished
Just get it polished
And polish the pulleys...
After all, the Magnum Powers piece would just hide the chrome alternator!
Last edited by Struck in AZ; Oct 1, 2004 at 02:38 PM.
I need to polish my metco pullies, they look crappy. I might take them off and chuck them into the wall instead.
Nice polish job there
In that picture of the two metco pullies could you tell me the bearing numbers on each dust cap (red/black)? I'm curious to see what they are and who makes them. They should start with 6203...
Thanks
Nice polish job there
In that picture of the two metco pullies could you tell me the bearing numbers on each dust cap (red/black)? I'm curious to see what they are and who makes them. They should start with 6203...
Thanks
Last edited by TampaBlack99; Oct 1, 2004 at 02:51 PM.
Tampa,
Amazing what one can do with a Dremel, some polishing compound and lots of time on one's hands...that's the before and after shot (you should see that IAC now too - pinched that idea from you I believe).
I sent the black bearing pulleys back to Metco and had them swap them out for the new red bearings, so I can't give you the numbers for them anymore. I will check the red bearings (I've got two still in the boxes they came in for my tensioner pulleys...had to yank the bearings out of those to send them to the chromer). As soon as I get home I will post the brand and numbers off the boxes that the new red bearings are in.
Dan
News flash...the red bearings that I have came in a blue and white box from 'NTN Corporation' and they are made in, of all places, Taiwan! The part number on the side of the box is '6203LLUC3/L627'. Hope that helps.
Amazing what one can do with a Dremel, some polishing compound and lots of time on one's hands...that's the before and after shot (you should see that IAC now too - pinched that idea from you I believe).

I sent the black bearing pulleys back to Metco and had them swap them out for the new red bearings, so I can't give you the numbers for them anymore. I will check the red bearings (I've got two still in the boxes they came in for my tensioner pulleys...had to yank the bearings out of those to send them to the chromer). As soon as I get home I will post the brand and numbers off the boxes that the new red bearings are in.
Dan
News flash...the red bearings that I have came in a blue and white box from 'NTN Corporation' and they are made in, of all places, Taiwan! The part number on the side of the box is '6203LLUC3/L627'. Hope that helps.
Last edited by Struck in AZ; Oct 1, 2004 at 05:19 PM.
Originally posted by Crued
i would think you'd want to hold the pulley closer where the most force is being applied to it. the whole purpose is to have more belt contact, not to get another 1000 miles out of your bearings
i would think you'd want to hold the pulley closer where the most force is being applied to it. the whole purpose is to have more belt contact, not to get another 1000 miles out of your bearings
Suavy
Why does it matter if there is increased tension? If there is more wrap and subsequently more surface area of the belt touching the relocated pulley, wouldnt that help with slippage alone?
Any physics experts out there?
Any physics experts out there?
Re: New From Magnum & JDM
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Anthony@JDM
[B]for. But the proper way to tension a belt is on the SLACK side.
Why?
That's the side with the tensioner. I would think that the slack side is the other side.
We are seeing just over a pound of increase and longer belt-life since there is no more slippage.
Have you really done enough testing to determine belt life?
[B]for. But the proper way to tension a belt is on the SLACK side.
Why?
That's the side with the tensioner. I would think that the slack side is the other side.
We are seeing just over a pound of increase and longer belt-life since there is no more slippage.
Have you really done enough testing to determine belt life?



