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Old Oct 1, 2004 | 12:15 PM
  #31  
TampaBlack99's Avatar
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Is this with the 90mm pullies or the 100mm?
 
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Old Oct 1, 2004 | 01:30 PM
  #32  
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90mm was used.

JimIII
 
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Old Oct 1, 2004 | 02:29 PM
  #33  
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Originally posted by TampaBlack99
Just get it polished

Or you could always powdercoat the idler bracket...



And polish the pulleys...



After all, the Magnum Powers piece would just hide the chrome alternator!
 

Last edited by Struck in AZ; Oct 1, 2004 at 02:38 PM.
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Old Oct 1, 2004 | 02:49 PM
  #34  
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I need to polish my metco pullies, they look crappy. I might take them off and chuck them into the wall instead.

Nice polish job there

In that picture of the two metco pullies could you tell me the bearing numbers on each dust cap (red/black)? I'm curious to see what they are and who makes them. They should start with 6203...

Thanks
 

Last edited by TampaBlack99; Oct 1, 2004 at 02:51 PM.
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Old Oct 1, 2004 | 05:07 PM
  #35  
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Tampa,

Amazing what one can do with a Dremel, some polishing compound and lots of time on one's hands...that's the before and after shot (you should see that IAC now too - pinched that idea from you I believe).

I sent the black bearing pulleys back to Metco and had them swap them out for the new red bearings, so I can't give you the numbers for them anymore. I will check the red bearings (I've got two still in the boxes they came in for my tensioner pulleys...had to yank the bearings out of those to send them to the chromer). As soon as I get home I will post the brand and numbers off the boxes that the new red bearings are in.

Dan

News flash...the red bearings that I have came in a blue and white box from 'NTN Corporation' and they are made in, of all places, Taiwan! The part number on the side of the box is '6203LLUC3/L627'. Hope that helps.
 

Last edited by Struck in AZ; Oct 1, 2004 at 05:19 PM.
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Old Oct 1, 2004 | 05:21 PM
  #36  
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Wouldnt the tension on the slack side now be pulling it up off the tension side??
And if you do get tension have you ever tried Doans Pills??

LMAO!
 
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Old Oct 1, 2004 | 06:55 PM
  #37  
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Originally posted by Crued
i would think you'd want to hold the pulley closer where the most force is being applied to it. the whole purpose is to have more belt contact, not to get another 1000 miles out of your bearings
That was my thoughts when I designed my set up. I have ran mine for a month or so with no issues.

Suavy
 
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Old Oct 1, 2004 | 07:01 PM
  #38  
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Originally posted by Suavy
That was my thoughts when I designed my set up. I have ran mine for a month or so with no issues.

Suavy
So which side is your set up on?

TB
 
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Old Oct 1, 2004 | 07:10 PM
  #39  
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With all due respect to Magnum Powers & JDM here is my set up...

 
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Old Oct 1, 2004 | 07:14 PM
  #40  
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Very interesting design. You actually keep both stock idlers in place for more belt support.

Nice work.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2004 | 07:23 PM
  #41  
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Why does it matter if there is increased tension? If there is more wrap and subsequently more surface area of the belt touching the relocated pulley, wouldnt that help with slippage alone?

Any physics experts out there?
 
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Old Oct 1, 2004 | 07:26 PM
  #42  
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Re: New From Magnum & JDM

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Anthony@JDM
[B]for. But the proper way to tension a belt is on the SLACK side.



Why?
That's the side with the tensioner. I would think that the slack side is the other side.



We are seeing just over a pound of increase and longer belt-life since there is no more slippage.

Have you really done enough testing to determine belt life?


 
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Old Oct 1, 2004 | 07:32 PM
  #43  
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Thanks Struck in AZ, that info will come in handy down the road.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2004 | 12:40 AM
  #44  
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Just trying to help a brother out...
 
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Old Oct 4, 2004 | 01:28 PM
  #45  
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does it have a price yet?
 
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