Knock Sensor
Originally posted by Suavy
I was told by our dyno techs here at Romeo Engine Plt. that they are active?
I'll let you know the what's and why's Tuesday.
I was told by our dyno techs here at Romeo Engine Plt. that they are active?
I'll let you know the what's and why's Tuesday.
Not yet they aren't but we did get the new lightning engine and are also building the GT-40.
I wet my self everyday looking at the GT-40 engines. We have our daily Mgr. meeting in the dyno area right next to them.
Suavy
I wet my self everyday looking at the GT-40 engines. We have our daily Mgr. meeting in the dyno area right next to them.
Suavy
Superfords is correct the knock sensor is a (piezoelectric sensor) an electric device that when you stress it, a voltage is produced. When detonation occurs it puts out a shock wave, or a vibration pulse. The piezoelectric absorbs this shock wave/vibration and then puts out a voltage in proportion to the shock wave/vibration absorbed.
Normally and dependant on the frequency of the shock wave/vibration absorbed and thus the voltage output of the piezoelectric sensor the PCM will retard and/or richen the fuel mixture to counter what the PCM thinks is detonation.
It is my understanding that due to the “vibration” of the S/C and the limits of the piezoelectric sensor it is not advanced enough to tell the difference in the “vibration” of the S/C as compared to the vibration of detonation and therefore it is useless for a motor with a S/C. In other words if it were active on the Lightning S/C motor then when ever you got into boost it would active the piezoelectric sensor, send out a voltage input to the PCM and then your timing would be retarded and/or the fuel mixture richen basically defeating any performance gain from the S/C.
Normally and dependant on the frequency of the shock wave/vibration absorbed and thus the voltage output of the piezoelectric sensor the PCM will retard and/or richen the fuel mixture to counter what the PCM thinks is detonation.
It is my understanding that due to the “vibration” of the S/C and the limits of the piezoelectric sensor it is not advanced enough to tell the difference in the “vibration” of the S/C as compared to the vibration of detonation and therefore it is useless for a motor with a S/C. In other words if it were active on the Lightning S/C motor then when ever you got into boost it would active the piezoelectric sensor, send out a voltage input to the PCM and then your timing would be retarded and/or the fuel mixture richen basically defeating any performance gain from the S/C.
Suavy,
The engineer you talk to in Dearborn will tell you that they have never been able to isolate the extraneous engine "noise" sufficiently to make the K/S work.
I had an MSD unit on Myphoon and it did work. The moment there was detonation it would pull timing and the dam thing would fall flat on it's face. The recovery time was in the order of two to three seconds so that race was lost.
Since minor detonation is very common on Turbocharged engines due to turbo "overspin" when the trans shifts, as a result, I finally disconnected it.
The engineer you talk to in Dearborn will tell you that they have never been able to isolate the extraneous engine "noise" sufficiently to make the K/S work.
I had an MSD unit on Myphoon and it did work. The moment there was detonation it would pull timing and the dam thing would fall flat on it's face. The recovery time was in the order of two to three seconds so that race was lost.
Since minor detonation is very common on Turbocharged engines due to turbo "overspin" when the trans shifts, as a result, I finally disconnected it.
Last edited by madferraristi; May 28, 2004 at 11:58 PM.
thanks, I just want to hear what they have to say.
I just had some thing weard happen to my truck the temp dropped here in Michigan to like 48 degrees tonight. I took a co worker out for a ride and got on it responded great but started to clatter at top end. Got right out of it and stopped turned around and tryied to do a hole shot but the minute It took off it started to chug or bog? Got right out of it went back to the plant and took a look under the hood. Maybe vacume line popped off? Every thing looked cool and no shake to the engine. Thought I may have fried a plug.
What do you think Superfords?
I just had some thing weard happen to my truck the temp dropped here in Michigan to like 48 degrees tonight. I took a co worker out for a ride and got on it responded great but started to clatter at top end. Got right out of it and stopped turned around and tryied to do a hole shot but the minute It took off it started to chug or bog? Got right out of it went back to the plant and took a look under the hood. Maybe vacume line popped off? Every thing looked cool and no shake to the engine. Thought I may have fried a plug.
What do you think Superfords?
Originally posted by Suavy
thanks, I just want to hear what they have to say.
I just had some thing weard happen to my truck the temp dropped here in Michigan to like 48 degrees tonight. I took a co worker out for a ride and got on it responded great but started to clatter at top end. Got right out of it and stopped turned around and tryied to do a hole shot but the minute It took off it started to chug or bog? Got right out of it went back to the plant and took a look under the hood. Maybe vacume line popped off? Every thing looked cool and no shake to the engine. Thought I may have fried a plug.
What do you think Superfords?
thanks, I just want to hear what they have to say.
I just had some thing weard happen to my truck the temp dropped here in Michigan to like 48 degrees tonight. I took a co worker out for a ride and got on it responded great but started to clatter at top end. Got right out of it and stopped turned around and tryied to do a hole shot but the minute It took off it started to chug or bog? Got right out of it went back to the plant and took a look under the hood. Maybe vacume line popped off? Every thing looked cool and no shake to the engine. Thought I may have fried a plug.
What do you think Superfords?
No I had 3/4 of a tank of 94 Sunoco gas & I just changed the fuel filter yesterday. I found out after checking my plugs today that I fried the #8 plug. Changed them out and put Denso 22's in her! Seems OK but am going to do a compression check to be safe.
Thanks
Suavy
Thanks
Suavy
Last edited by Suavy; May 29, 2004 at 04:55 PM.
Sauvy
Yes, check that compression, my motor is back out because of a quicky little burnt spark plug, probably caused by low fuel in the tank.
I know about this stuff but sometimes the right foot isn't connected to the brain if you know what I mean and it sure does happen quick.
Dale
Yes, check that compression, my motor is back out because of a quicky little burnt spark plug, probably caused by low fuel in the tank.
I know about this stuff but sometimes the right foot isn't connected to the brain if you know what I mean and it sure does happen quick.
Dale
As long as the engine runs smooth you probably didn't hurt it.
Even after a plug change mine had a shake to it and I knew I was screwed. When I got the heads off, 6 out of 8 plug bosses were burnt, the worst ones being at the back of the motor and progressively less damage towards the front of the motor. Only one had to be repaired and that was the dreaded #4, so it is going together with a bunch of new fuel system stuff to try and not do this again.
Dale
Even after a plug change mine had a shake to it and I knew I was screwed. When I got the heads off, 6 out of 8 plug bosses were burnt, the worst ones being at the back of the motor and progressively less damage towards the front of the motor. Only one had to be repaired and that was the dreaded #4, so it is going together with a bunch of new fuel system stuff to try and not do this again.
Dale
Ok; I'll run this by you guys since you have experience. Not sure of the #ing on the cylinders, but my last plug on the drivers side keeps giving me a problem. I was checking my plugs before a dyno tune, and found it to have partially melted/and had deposits on it. Also, the threads had oil on them. So, I changed the plugs, and the truck runs fine; did before. Well I checked it again about a week ago, and close to the same problem out of the same hole. Not as bad on the melting/deposits, but still there. And the oil is still on the threads. I havn't done a compresion check, but am beginning o wonder if that hole is hurt. Or, am I just getting plugs somehow?
First off the cylinders are numbered 1 thru 4 front to back on the passenger (Right) side and 5 thru 8 front to back on the Left side.
So the cylinder you are refering to is # 8.
An obersvation I have made on my stuff is that the engine runs leanest at the rear and richest at the front and it doesn't matter if it is modified or not. We were just looking at this yesturday and dug out and old set of stock cylinder heads and you could see it plain as day, the carbon patterns looked the same between my wizzy high dollars heads and a set of stockers. What I haven't figured out yet is if this is caused by the factory fuel rails or if it is air flow related. I will figure that out soon.
The problem you seem to have is that the #8 cylinder is oiling down. Where that oil is coming from I have no idea but the oil is causing detonation and killing your plug IMO.
You might try pulling #8 injector and moving it to a front cylinder just in case that is a weak injector, but I really don't think thats going to help.
If you haven't fixed the oil puddling problems in the intake manifold that could be where the oil is coming from......under boost it is entering the rear cylinders....thats just a guess also.
Dale
So the cylinder you are refering to is # 8.
An obersvation I have made on my stuff is that the engine runs leanest at the rear and richest at the front and it doesn't matter if it is modified or not. We were just looking at this yesturday and dug out and old set of stock cylinder heads and you could see it plain as day, the carbon patterns looked the same between my wizzy high dollars heads and a set of stockers. What I haven't figured out yet is if this is caused by the factory fuel rails or if it is air flow related. I will figure that out soon.
The problem you seem to have is that the #8 cylinder is oiling down. Where that oil is coming from I have no idea but the oil is causing detonation and killing your plug IMO.
You might try pulling #8 injector and moving it to a front cylinder just in case that is a weak injector, but I really don't think thats going to help.
If you haven't fixed the oil puddling problems in the intake manifold that could be where the oil is coming from......under boost it is entering the rear cylinders....thats just a guess also.
Dale
I have noticed what you said about the rear cylinders running leaner. Might also be a cooling issue; just hard to say.
I thought about the injector giving a problem; that is going to be out of the picture now because I just changed them all out for a set of 50's. I use a swanson kit for the oil in the intake, and it is staying clean. I am going to have to check on the plug after some more time goes by to see if the injector swap did any good.
But, I have a feeling that hole is going to always be a problem on this motor. Makes a good excuse to pull it out
Pushing over 450HP on a stock block can't last for ever
I thought about the injector giving a problem; that is going to be out of the picture now because I just changed them all out for a set of 50's. I use a swanson kit for the oil in the intake, and it is staying clean. I am going to have to check on the plug after some more time goes by to see if the injector swap did any good.
But, I have a feeling that hole is going to always be a problem on this motor. Makes a good excuse to pull it out
Pushing over 450HP on a stock block can't last for ever


