Instead of buying a new short block, or even a rotating assembly, would it be possible to just replace the rods? Seems like this would give you the best bang/buck improvement.

 

i've had the same thoughts, instead of paying 2 or 3k for a built motor, what about $600 for just rods....I know, I know, it's going to cost the same to install, but the extra 2k i would save can go to a lot of other mods (efan, heat exchanger, etc.)....i mean a built motor can handle like 1200hp....i only plan on building a motor to 600hp or so....

sorry if i seem like a thread pirate, but your concern is mine too....and one i'm sure both of us would like answers ....

 

I was thinking the same thing. I havent heard of any piston failures yet-stock are forged? I cant justify taking out quiet/strong factory,low mileage pistons. Would new rods effect ballance in any way-thats my main concern...Whats everyone think?

 

This is the rout I plan to take. I plan on getting my dream car in a few years so there is no sense in me putting more money then I have to in the Lightning. I want to run mid/high 11's in the Lightning with a 6# pulley and N20. Even now running mid 12's I a always have that worry in the back of my mind that she is going to let go. So by doing rods even running in the 11's I wont have that nagging feeling in the back of my head. I just dont want to have to worry and since my goal is only high/mid 11's using N20 and a 6#'er just the rods will be enough.

 

Im looking at getting this package from Sal

http://www.powersurgeperformance.net...pexd.asp?id=65

 

well i think we are all looking at that package....but what's the benefit of getting the whole package if all we NEED are the rods....do you get my drift....we all want to run 11's, but isn't a built motor overkill (i mean there a few guys running 11's on stock blocks)....$600 (for rods) is a small amount of money if you can ensure you won't pop a rod....

 

I'm interested in this subject as well. I plan on shooting some NOS next spring.

Since I do all my own work, spending under a grand to make it strong enough for high 11s really appeals to me.

WOT

 

Ive done everything so far on my truck but I dont think I would get involved with internals.

 

me neither...i just don't have the education or the tools to get it done properly. I'd love to, but logistically it's not possible for me

 

Our lower end package is only $1,443.00. Same internals you see in all our 10 second trucks.

http://www.teamjdm.com/id319.htm

Justin@JDM

 

How much would you charge to install this package? Lets say I dropped of my L and wanted to have that stuff installed? As well how much would you charge if I dropped it off and only wanted new Rods in her?

Thanks, You can email me at ntimd8@rogers.com if you do not want to post prices.

Thanks

 

yeah..me too, me too....let me know if you can traderdave2003@hotmail.com

 

NTIMD8,

I'll start off by saying that you must have these motors balanced when installing the new internals. Its not like the old days where you would take down the oil pan and replace everything from their and be on your way. The whole motor has to come apart so you might as well do the pistons. Anyway, it would cost $3895.00 plus about $1600 dollars labor to install the lower end package. If you would like to use your stock pistons than it would run you $3371.00 plus the $1600 labor job. If you go with the $1443 package listed above and do it yourself locally than its your responsibility to find a reputable company to blueprint and balance your motor.

Hope this helps,

Justin@JDM

 

For $1400 bucks why not spend the extra and get the short block? This way you know where you stand.

Heck I got a 393 Stroker kit from Coast High Performance for $1200 which was EVERYTHING. Rods, Pistons, rings, bearings, and a crank.

$1400 is a little high IMHO.

 

Holy cow. Now we are @ just under $5000.

Please help me under stand this better. For $5000 what are you doing again? The kit is $1400 and the labor is $1600. Where did this $3000# come from?

I must have missed something.