New rods only?
Originally posted by crockett59
For $1400 bucks why not spend the extra and get the short block? This way you know where you stand.
Heck I got a 393 Stroker kit from Coast High Performance for $1200 which was EVERYTHING. Rods, Pistons, rings, bearings, and a crank.
$1400 is a little high IMHO.
For $1400 bucks why not spend the extra and get the short block? This way you know where you stand.
Heck I got a 393 Stroker kit from Coast High Performance for $1200 which was EVERYTHING. Rods, Pistons, rings, bearings, and a crank.
$1400 is a little high IMHO.
Thats correct but you have to remember these parts arent a dime a dozen like pushrod motors. As far as the Machine work goes, you are prolly looking at less then $300 to Balance the rotating assembly. I use to pay between $350-$500 in machine work on my 4.6l Mustang Motors, that price included boring the block, polish crank to builders spec. Since you guys arent replacing pistons, you wont need to have cylinders bored out, light hone will do. The assembly part is all extra, I have the knowledge to do it myself but not everybody can do that so it might end up being more.
BTW- Houston Performance and Fox Lake offer rotating assemblies less than the above mentioned prices.
I would also like a break down of the parts, and labor also.
What would it cost to send you my stock long block and you in turn send me one with better rods and pistons.
How many hours are you charging for the engine pull and reinstall? How many hours for the balance and blueprint?
Thanks,
Mike
What would it cost to send you my stock long block and you in turn send me one with better rods and pistons.
How many hours are you charging for the engine pull and reinstall? How many hours for the balance and blueprint?
Thanks,
Mike
The $1600 labor charge is for pulling your current motor, removing the heads, retorque the heads, and reinstalling the new motor in the truck.
The rest of the money involves the blueprinting and balancing as well as assembly of the motor. Any "reputable" engine builder will charge around $1500 for this.
Hoep this helps,
Justin@JDM
The rest of the money involves the blueprinting and balancing as well as assembly of the motor. Any "reputable" engine builder will charge around $1500 for this.
Hoep this helps,
Justin@JDM
Never had mine balance. It runs very good!!!!! Just ask the guys up here in Washington State. I got my parts from REM, at a very great price. All of my rods and piston weight were very close! Have the machine work done, and do it yourself. If you live in Washington State get ahold of me I will do it for you at a great price!!! Darn, wasn't going to say that sorry
Herb
Herb
SOOO,,,, could a stock shortblock be opened up, pistons/rods removed,, brought to a machine shop and have the pistons pressed onto manley or other rods? Would this work(reassembeled) or would I have to bring the crank in and have everything ballanced?
On a side note, has anyone tried Totalseal rings to stop blowby?
On a side note, has anyone tried Totalseal rings to stop blowby?
Originally posted by crockett59
Holy cow. Now we are @ just under $5000.
Please help me under stand this better. For $5000 what are you doing again? The kit is $1400 and the labor is $1600. Where did this $3000# come from?
I must have missed something.
Holy cow. Now we are @ just under $5000.
Please help me under stand this better. For $5000 what are you doing again? The kit is $1400 and the labor is $1600. Where did this $3000# come from?
I must have missed something.
Originally posted by RhinoSlug
What he said. But I think its 2000.00 not 3000.00.
What he said. But I think its 2000.00 not 3000.00.
Unless you do machine work, there really is no "easy" way to do it. It is a huge PITA to pull the motor, and conventional wisdom almost always asserts that..."while its out, I may as well do it RIGHT."
Ever since I've installed the KB, I've been trying to figure out an "easy"(cheap) solution to the rod issue, but there just doesn't seem to be one.
If someone figures it out, PLEASE let me know!
Seems like the most logical thing to do is wait until you need a motor, like with a broken rod, before you dig into it. Like the old saying "If it aint broke then don't fix it" or somthing like that.
So I think we just mod the he!! out of the stock block, while saving for the built block. That way we know we got our money's worth from the motor that Ford built us for free minus the cost of the truck.
So I think we just mod the he!! out of the stock block, while saving for the built block. That way we know we got our money's worth from the motor that Ford built us for free minus the cost of the truck.
I understand the difficulity of the task but what confuses me is that Justin said the lower package is 1443.00. Then throws a 3895.00 figure out there with 1600.00 labor charge. How do we go from one to the other. Sorry if Im overlooking something but I just dont understand all that is involved and its something I want to do.
$1443 is for New rotating assembly(Only Parts)
$3895 Is for Rebuilt Shortblock(Parts Plus Labor to built Shortblock)
$1600 Is the Labor to Remove Old Motor,remove Heads, Install head into new shortblock and install shortbock into truck
New Numbers
$5495 Drop your truck off and pick it up with fresh Rebuilt Motor
$2452 for Labor and Machine work to install New rotating assemnly (Ouch thats high)
$3895 Is for Rebuilt Shortblock(Parts Plus Labor to built Shortblock)
$1600 Is the Labor to Remove Old Motor,remove Heads, Install head into new shortblock and install shortbock into truck
New Numbers
$5495 Drop your truck off and pick it up with fresh Rebuilt Motor
$2452 for Labor and Machine work to install New rotating assemnly (Ouch thats high)
I think it would benefit if you do the job yourself. I plan on doing that next summer or sooner. My L is not a daily driver, by next summer it would probaly hit 30,000 miles, the pistons will still be in good shape. I have a 8# lower and would love to add a 75-100 shot.
yeah, i would love to do it myself, i certainly would rather learn by doing, than pay $1600 for someone else to do it...but my L is a daily driver.....and what happens if i get the motor out and everything apart and then screw something up...then i'm screwed.....how hard is it...??


