Unfortunatly I won't get any keeper shots from the 1628 Pic's
I got from converting the Video, but after going frame by frame, I did find this, and am baffled at HOW FAST the rear came up.
Whats up with that ???

I'll just give you the short story, 3 pic's
Thats Vinnie standing there where the red hat, use him to judge
the rear height

Pic One, FOOT STILL ON THE BRAKE, truck is dead level pic #1305.


Pic Two, THE INITIAL LAUNCH, truck is clearly starting to squat
pic#1318


Pic Three, HOLY **** THE REAR IS RISING faster than Gator in a all girls school locker room.
This is frame # 1324 I hardly moved at all yet, not even up to or near green light yet. Look how high the rear is already ??? WTF


Would I be correct in assuming this has to do with the
extra 75 HP and Torque of the instant and initial Nitrous Blast.
Is it that I'm throwing it all at it right at once and when the bars come up with that massive torque, they lift the Body with it ???
We all know tons with TT bars and even Lakewoods that DO NOT
have these problems, and some are way faster than me.
With KB's, cams, exhuast, more boost, head work, and other performance Mods, power is being laid down at differant stages of the run and at differant RPM and Torque levels. But with Juice, your launching with all your Normal HP and Torque, and on top adding an INSTANT 75 HP and god knows how much more torque to the equation.
And are the long/lift bars gonna correct this problem ?

 

OMG That's good.


Rob,

Call me before you go anywhere else for your bars.

Justin@JDM

 

I don't know what caused that, but going through the frames one by one, that's dedication

 

I think it is a tire pressure issue...

--Steele

 

Rob, It's called instant center. Your traction aiding device has an instant center that is pretty far rearward. Get one that has an effective fulcrum point around the front bumper.

The ideal setup would be a 4 link. But that's $$$$

BTW: I use quicktime to do a step by step analisys using the arrow keys. You can learn so much just by getting vids of people launching and comparing thier mods/vids against other one.

Rich B

 

Rob,
Steele may be correct. I measured the distance from the top of the slick to the fender well in the 2nd and 3rd pic. No change so if the camera didn't move, it must be rebound in the tire that's raising the rear. I think I can see a good wrinkle in the wall in pic 2 but less in pic 3.

 

The re-bound is because there is'nt a big enough lever action on them. They can easily go up/down because the fulcrum point is pretty close to the axle centerline and not enough weight on that point. With single "arms" or "lift bars" no matter thier length, it's a simple class 1 lever.

If it had a far fwd instant center the rear would squat no matter what the tires were doing.


At this level of torque in a vehicle small things that might not matter on underpowered vehicles become more appearant.


Rich B

 

Do you have drag shocks? I'm thinking that may help your situation.

 

The rear half of your leaf springs are flaring. Had the same problem and bought a set of the Lakewood clamps, problem solved.

 

Well I don't know about that........................

 

Rob_02Lightning,
Using the reference points of the back bumper, the exhaust tips, and the front bumper, you can clearly see that the front lifts, stays up, and the rear lifts. The front isn't dropping, the entire truck is lifting. In the third frame, the rear tire is clearly unloading. Not only is the body lifting, but the height of the axle in relation to the track is greater. Review the video again, and if the body lift is linear, and comes before the tire unloading, then it's the suspension. If the tire is unloading first, then it's bouncing the rear of the truck upward. Which came first, the chicken or the egg?

 

I love you guys + Leeann
Great answer's, sugestions, theory's, and fact's you've giving me.
This is when this place shines the most

Wow there's so much more involved than I realized.
Ok let me make sure I understand this

It appears as though the wheel well isn't growing,
but in fact the entire rear is lifting, even know the fronts still up.
So that means ???????????? WHAT ?
The tire's are springing me up "or" the torque of the bars are
pushing me up and hence, the more torque I ad, the worse
this occurs, which is why it became a problem once I got into 12.3's. 2's. 0's and now 11.81 ? (when I starting jucing it)

But others faster than me, don't have this problem, is it
the initial extra HP + Torque of the 75HP of Juice ?
Is it the TT Bar's ? Bad Leaf's or shocks (only 12K on the truck)
And with it happening soo fast, meaning just frames into the run, maybe inches to a few ft of movement, does that tell us ANYTING ?

Please give me Your Opinions

WILL THE OTHER BARS HELP OR STOP IT ?

DO I NEED TO CHANGE SHOCKS ? (12K on truck)

OBVIOUSLY I SHOULD RUN MORE AIR, HOW MUCH ? (28x10's)

ARE THE LEAF'S GIVING ME TROUBLE NOW TOO ?


thank you all, you guys and Leeann's are truly great

 

Robbster
Welcome to the world of slapper bars.

Now go call Sal about a set of Caltracks,

If you put a set of those long azz bars on there that the other folks sell......your problem will go the other way.

If you want the truck to drive out of the hole perfectly, I would use the Caltracks, but they are a drag race item....not for everybody. My .02
Dale

 

Few questions before I head back to work for another hour


Interested in the Lakewood clamps, thanks 1BADTK
No I don't have drag shocks

And I love the idea of a 4 link set up Rich
And now after I hit post, I see Dale has yet another choice with the Caltracks

Lets talk 4 link for a sec, eacy bolt on, no modifications needed
Would I want upper
Track-Link Upper Traction Bars


This system converts the stock leaf springs into a four-link type suspension.
- Adjustable polyurethane-bushed upper link eliminates wheel hop and axle wrap.
- Easily adjustable pre-load in vehicle.
- Unique bolt-in brackets make installation a breeze.
- Complete bolt-in, no modifications required. All hardware included.
- This system does not alter ride characteristics as do other traction systems, and is quiet in all situation.

Track-Link Upper Traction Bars
1999-current Ford Lightning & 2002-current Harley-Davidson F-150
Price: $424.95 shipped!!

Or do i want lower
Track-Link Lower Traction Bars

This system converts the stock leaf springs into a four-link type suspension.
- Adjustable polyurethane-bushed upper link eliminates wheel hop and axle wrap.
- Easily adjustable pre-load in vehicle.
- Unique bolt-in brackets make installation a breeze.
- Complete bolt-in, no modifications required. All hardware included.
- This system does not alter ride characteristics as do other traction systems, and is quiet in all situation.
- Components mount below spring, and may interfere with exhaust system modifications, particularly with exhaust tips. Suitable for vehicles lowered more then 2".

Track-Link Lower Traction Bars
1999-current Ford Lightning & 2002-current Harley-Davidson F-150
Price: $424.95 shipped!!

OR BOTH ? That would be out of the question money wise


Designed for tough racing action, the Cal-Tracs System delivers reliable track and street performance. Improves not only Wheel-Hop, but also controls Axle Wrap under Wide Open Throttle Launches. Improves 60ft time and drops 1/4 miles time by 1/10th.

*Comes with "new" anti-rattle/noise kit included.

Cal-Tracs Traction Bars w/ Anti-Rattle Kit
1999-current Ford Lightning & 2002-current Harley-Davidson F-150
Price: $399.95 shipped!!

 

Aww... We love you too Rob!