Anyone know what the requirements are as for how far back from trans or yoke? What type of material thickness? etc?

 

I'm not *exactly sure*. But from what I know (and was good enough to get me on the track) was 6" back from the u-joint and "frame mounted".

Don't know about the material, but I made mine using 3/16" x 1.5 1008-1010 stock for the loop. And a 1" square steel tube.

If I were to do it again I would have used 1" a wide strip.

Again, I'm not sure if what I made was within *legal* specs? But I'm confident it would hold.

WOT

 

Rich knows his stuff

I made my own loop and never got kicked off a track. I raced a couple times at sanctioned events where they actually did check the vehicle...........not just ask if you had a loop and helmet.

--Joe

 

Thanks Guys!

I need one for the Cobra and didn't want to drill into the floor. There are 2 studs that stick down that would work great, but they are about 12" back from the yoke.

Do you think 1/8" is too thin for a loop?

In theory, you would lose the d/s at takeoff or low speeds. Nothing should spontaneously break while accelerating down the track, right???

 

Info from corral.net site

"The driveshaft loop is required to meet the NHRA safety rules if the car is running 13.99 and faster on slicks or 13.00 and faster on street tires. The rules require that the loop is mounted within 6 inches of the front U-joint on the driveshaft for support of the driveshaft in the event of a U-joint failure. The loop must enclose the driveshaft in a full 360 degrees and must be either 1/4-inch thick and 2-inches wide or 7/8-inch x 0.065-inch welded steel tubing."

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Have a good day eh ! .................................................. .......... Dave

 

So, I guess it doesn't have to attach to the frame?

 

That would be really hard on a Mustang.....

 

If you do a search, people have claimed in the past that the DS loop must be mounted to the frame. Mine isn't, but I make 11 second passes at the track with no helmet or roll cage either...

 

The loop only has to be attached to the frame on an open interior car, like an altered, roadster, or dragster type chassis. Personally, I prefer it to be attached to the chassis, but it's not required.

 

Why would you do that? I can see no roll bar, but no helmet?

 

After looking at all the different styles. I'd still stick with a frame mounted one vs one that goes over the seatbelt bolts.

From a design & functional standpoint guys don't have to drop the driveshaft (a no brainer I know. But it seems to intimidate some people), the load gets displaced through a somewhat flexable bridge (larger surface area) and is held in check by the trucks frame. The style's I've seen that mount to the cabs floor are very strong units. This then translates almost 100% of the load the 0.8mm thick sheetmetal floorpan. (may be doubled in that area?)

That in it's self is'nt all that bad because it can be easily fixed and is out of site. But this *might* allow the loop to move under a rotating load. And if you've ever taken measurements? It's tight! The gas tank is RIGHT THERE!.

And what if it ever let go with a person using those seatbelt mounts?

At least with what I designed and made the loops location and shape won't be compromised.

BTW: I'm a design engineer at heart (and professional experience). We in SE Mich completely overkill safety related or even "perceived" safety related items.

WOT

 

It is hard to listen to the engine with a helmet. I run 11 second passes on the street with no helmet...

 

For the Lightnings, I agree. But the Mustang has no frame, so I am very limited. I may just make a round one and bolt it through the body under the center console. Still thinking though....

 

I like running 11's with no pants