As I said in this thread , I can't seem to hook up with ET Streets, and judging by the lower trap speeds I have been getting with them, I figured they were also robbing power.

Just got back from the dyno today. I did a comparison on my race program F1's Vs. ET Streets. I don't have a scanner so I won't be able to post the dyno sheet until monday after I get to work (if anybody is interested), but here are the numbers...

F1's Actual: 447.2 RWHP, 576.5 RWTQ

ET Streets (26" X 11.5) Actual: 429.5 RWHP, 544.2 RWTQ

F1's STD corrected: 436.3 RWHP, 562.5 RWTQ

ET Streets STD corrected: 420.8 RWHP, 533.2 RWTQ

The runs were made 30 min. apart with a cooldown and icing the intake.

 

TRACTON : You are not running the right pressure and or you are NOT HEATING them up enough.ET streets work awesome..........

POWER : I can amost agree with you but let me explain.I noticed a about the same MPH if not a little lower with et streets also,compared to F1s.What i want you to understand is this.95% of your ET(time) is related to launch on a specific truck.If you want the best ET you want traction.MPH is not so important here.I do understand your point but listen.If youve ever noticed,Even when you get HORRBLE traction,Your ET might be off as much as 1 whole second but if you notice,Your mph is probally not even off by 1mph.That is because at the RATE you are climbing MPH at the other end of the track is Soooooooooo much slower than right out of the hole...I would not pay any attention to mph,and stick to ET.With EQUAL good traction on f1s,you probally would pick up 1 mph due to it being 'easier to turn" but your the breaking point in traction is not worth it.After initial launch,your truck power is always identical.ALL of your ET is at launch TRUST ME.
If you want to test my theory,Launch your truck at the track one time like right off idle,take off like a grandma and let it shift into second on its own and then FLOOR it.Your ET will he horrible but I bet your MPH will be almost identical to your best ET MPH.............


What i am trying to say is with GOOD traction,your ET streets WILL UNDOUBTLEY get you your best ET .Dont think otherwise

Hope this helps.Its kinda confusing.

 

ET Streets are designed for concrete / track use, not metal rollers of a dyno. That loss in power could easily have come from some slippage.

 

Try 16-17 #'s and count to 5 after you see smoke coming out of your fender wells.

I launch at 14-1500 rpm and get 1.63-1.7 depending on track conditions.

 

I used to think the same thing about the ET Streets until, I was show'ed how to use them correctly.

I was told to put 14 to 16 lbs. of air in them light them up until you have a white puffy cloud of smoke coming from the fender wells. then go right up to the line and stage do not burn'em again going to the lights. Then power brake up to 1500 rpms and leave on just before the green with stock front tires. I made my best ET ever when I did that. Just my 2 cents hope it help!

Suavy

 

If you want to hook and use your gear, get the Hoosier Quick Time Pro's. I love them... I can stomp it from the line and it hooks.
No worrries..

 

I tried pressures down to 15 psi where the truck moved around too much on the top end. I tried 20 psi, no good. 18 psi they seemed happy. At first I didn't heat them enough but then I heated the $h!t out of them.

I hear ya and I understand what you are saying. I'm just going by what I see. I've been racing for 15 years and have used a variety of tires over the years. These rate with Mc Creary tires in my opinion.
Possible but I doubt it. The truck was tied down pretty good and the tires were sticky at the end. You could say that F1's weren't designed for it either.

I got the tires used, maybe they are just old or something. I'm not impressed though and I am going with the QT Pro's.

Edit: After looking at the dyno graphs, I think the 26" tall tires add too much gear. I was making max power at 4700 rpm.

 

You can say what you want, but you are wrong.....you don't get 1.63' 60's from crap tires.

I have raced with trucks that have the same 8# pulley as me and are in the 1.8's with the hoosiers while i was in the 1.7's with the et streets on there home track , which i had never been to.


It must be the driver.

 

I could never get mine to work either. Especially at the recommended pressures.

I found that on the marginal tracks we have out here, 13 lbs seems to work best. This is below the recommended 16 lbs. They wouldn't stick to anything at that pressure. I know of some trucks running as little as 10 lbs.

I also found that a 5 second burnout, and a dry hop work best for me. The dry hop is to make sure all of the water from the wheelwell is off the tire.

The reason your hp reads lower, is because the extra gear ratio the the 26" tall tire gives you. You could also be seeing some slippage on the steel dyno roller with a slick tire.

As far as the truck moving around, it really doesn't go anywhere. The rear of the truck wag's like a dog's tail, but you don't even need to correct. Just keep it pointed forward. It's just swaying.

 

Well it could be driver error, but when I used F1's and ET Streets on the same day at the same track I was able to get a 1.88 60' on F1's (1.8 60's all day long) and only one time a 1.79 on ET Streets. The other passes on ET's were like 1.85, 1.95 and 1.90. That was the first time on them so I figured it was driver error. Last sunday however it may have been the track prep. The track was slick. In my past experience by bolting on tires, it would basically void a bad track and I would hook up (at least better than stock tires).

 

today I tried the ET streets at the track for the first time.

bad air...however.

no spin at all with 18lbs of air. 1.81 60ft, again bad air day.

I did notice, my truck shifted at 6 rpms less than with the Nittos.

When I was leaving and really thought about it, I realized that
usually when a chip is calibrated, to shift at a certain rpm, the
program uses the mph reading from speed sensor.

Well, with the shorter tires, the speedo is thrown higher,
resulting in the computer telling the truck to shift sooner.

Goodluck.

 

600 rpms less.....sorry.

I feel with the rpm shift repeatability of last weeks weather.
I would have ran 12.55, instead of 12.7s.

I also had skinnies on the front.

total weight loss from the previous week was 102lbs.

 

One of the problems is with the setup. Looking at the truck with the hitch and spare tire out and with the ET Streets on, it is all jacked up in the back. I know this isn't helping. I have to get time to put the 2" drop in.

Also, with regards to the tires slipping on the steel rollers...The best pull was the second and the tires were sticky right after the pull. I really don't think they were slipping.

Anyway...here are the graphs. Run 7 is with F1's and run 10 is with 26" tall ET Streets. Both on Race Side.

 

Its all in the track prep.

Our tracks blow out here like Jay stated. He and i frequent the local tracks together. I was pulling just as bad 60 FT times as he was and i was on Hoosier Drag 28X10X16's.

Im certain that if you went to a 15 inch wheel with a 12 inch width slick, you would get some nice 60's. The 16" wheels just dont provide enough bite for everyone. Myself, im not ready to be shaving any metal on the rear calipers to go 15". But for others, its a meaningful option.

Supposedly theres supposed to be a better selection of 16 inch drag tires this year, so we will see.

 

I wouldn't mind so much to lose HP and TQ if I was making it up by cutting 1.6 60' times.

The ET Streets are 11 1/2 inches wide. I don't think the extra 1/2 inch is going to do much. I think the issue with these tires is the sidewall height because it is a 16" tire and 26" tall. Like you said, going to a 15" gives more choice, but I agree...I would rather not cut the rear calipers to fit them.

Looking at the chart I made max power between 4500 RPM and 5000 RPM. I was going through the traps at 5800 with the 26" tall tires and at around 5500 with the F1's. It was only making around 375 HP at 5800 RPM with the MT's.

Separate thought...I think the 26 inchers are adding too much gear and making me go through the traps at a way higher RPM than what I would like for where I am making the most power.