Nothing is hard to install when someone else does it free.

 

If you knew the bottle had too much pressure why did you spray it? A bottle which is filled with only 10lbs can have a pressure of 2000lbs. It is the responsibility of the user to make sure the pressure is okay.

I fill my own bottles and I overfill them all of the time.

 

Hopefully I'm not jumping in here to late.

The reason the Nitrous doesn't do much on the trucks is that it takes time to cool the water and then have it go up into the intercooler. If someone knows the flowrate and capacity of the system they could figure out how long it would take for the cooler water from the nitrous to make it to the intercooler. The best setup would be to spray it for a long time before you ran so everything is cold. Most likely, the new JDM cooler wouldn't react any differently.

But, that is secondary to the airflow affect. On a turbocharged (so mostly rice and why its marketed to rice) car, the boost is regulated by the wastegate. The colder the air can be after the intercooler, the lower the pressure will be. The wastegate will then stay shut longer until the boost makes it back to the set point (which is a pressure set point). So, colder intercooler + same boost = higher mass flow = more power.

On a lightning, the mass flow has already been established by the blower, so making the air charge cooler just lowers the boost pressure (while mass flow stays the same) and allows you to get away with more timing. More timing = a couple of percents. More massflow = lots of percents.

 

It seems like a viable alternative to the powercoolers...

Flip the switch, jet some air across the intercooler and get it nice and iced up before your run... saves you buying ice and dripping all over the place.

Figure 80cu ft of air is $4 from a SCUBA shop and it's a REALLY cheap cooler.

 

I agree he thought that if 10lbs was good then 13 would be better it was through first gear. Alot of my customers wanted us to put as much N2O as we could like 19lbs in a 15lbs and 13lbs in a 10lbs. If you are doing this watch out the burst disc is not long for this world we had a 15lbs bottle with 19lbs of N2O in it sitting in a 65deg store out of the sun and the Burst disc ruptured talk about crap your pants that was the last time we over filled any bottles.And your right the owners should watch the pressure on thoughs bottles if they are runing a dry kit I;m sure it is not too good on a wet kit either.
I see that many of you are this is just what Magnuson told me they also do not suggest that PCV go through there either but all the Eaton SC set up have it going throught the SC.I hope the teflon last a while this is what seals the rotors to the housing.Will it boost with the teflon gone YES but you will loose efficentcy
Jeff T.

 

Easterisland- Wrong answer Leonard that was the NOS dry kit!

Georgia-SVT- You know I have thought the same thing that spraying through the supercharger might affect the rotor packs but I have seen several L owners spray 50+ bottles of nitrous through the factroy Eaton and not have any problems at all. Plus as cheap as a stock Eaton is these days if something did happen you could purchase another blower for less than $500.00.

 

Installed it just recently....so no data yet. Does look kick a$$ though!!

The only drawback is the small bottle....I will probably go to a 15.

****in' awesome having three purges

tried to post pics...but, no dice.

With this kit and the JDM exchanger and twin electric fans + a circulating intercooler pump (truck off, on relay), I anticipate significantly quicker cooldown between runs...all I'm after.


my 2 cents, thanks.

 

You guys are all great, this is some awesome info right here.
Team SLS you should have no problem cooling down that motor, good luck, can't wait to hear your New Numbers.
Georgia you've been a big help and I thank you
"along with each and every one of you"
I didn't know about spraying through the S/C, so if you were gonna spray anyway, would you go dry or wet ???
Great feed back, keep it coming

 

Rob without a doubt you want to go with a wet kit. It's much safer and plus it makes more HP. A 75hp dry shot is going to give you about 60 rwhp versus a wet shot which will be around
75-80 rwhp. Plus the dry kit is hard on the plugs. You will have to change them a lot more frequently with the dry kit versus the wet kit. Plus with a wet kit you can get a way with a lot more timing than runnign the dry kit. Rob I have ran both of my L and the wet kit is a much better kit in my honest opinion.

I wish one of the tuners would post some info on how much timing you can get away with while running a wet shot at let's say a 75-100hp shot. I posted this on the boards a couple of times but didn't get an answer. The reason being NX techs swear that you should tune to the max and then add the nitrous to it. I would love to be able to run my 75hp shot on the street side of my chip with 16.5 degrees of timing.

 

Thanks HANKFAN, "NO DRY SYSTEM" I'm sold
As for no tuner views, I noticed that too
You can't blame um, if one of them says YA IT'S OK TO DO THIS OR THAT, and it blows, "IT'S HAMMER TIME FROM EVERYONE"
I never bash a Vendor though, they're not Gods, just people, and yes they make mistakes at work just like you and me do.
Plus they seem to be doing just fine bashing themselves these days anyway.

Hank Fan I've done much reading on Nitrous lately and it seems lots of articles do say less timing equals more Nitrous power, but I got to admit I had to think about that trade off and wonder if it makes sense. I have an extra chip I used to break in my Lightning, 12 Degrees of Timing, hi 10's low 11 A/F. I went to the track with it 3 weekends in a row and ran the exact same SLOW TIME each and every time with it (13.3) With a Filter-Chip-n-Pulley.
(6) times in a row, consistant as hell, 1.9 60ft each time.
Once I moved the timing to 15 degrees for my street program and 17 for the track, I ran a 12.8 first attempt "and last race of the season". That was with a 4lb Lower Pulley only.
THE PROBLEM WAS NOT ENOUGH TIMING.

Point being MY LIGHTNING runs MUCH BETTER with timing. Some of us are running way more than 15/17 degrees. So if we retard it for the Nitrous lets say back to stock, we stand to loose a 1/2 second right there. MINE DID, BEEN THERE DONE THAT.

For Cecil in April, I got 4" Ram Air, a 4lb lower, a 2 to 3 lb upper, an Accu-Fab S/B T/B, a Plasma Booster, 28" x 10" 16" Hoosiers, 16" BLACK American Racing Rims, Truck Trak Bars, and DS Loop.
I expect to take at least 1/2 a second off my 12.8 which was done with the basic filter-chip-4lb pulley. Now I have addressed Better Flow with the Accu-Fab, Better Spark with the Plasma Booster, Better traction with the Hoosiers, and better launching with the Truck Trak Bars .

JUICE WOULD BE NICE TOO

 

Rob- I don't know that anyone has posted any info on tuning a Gen 2 for nitrous. All the posts I have read just say that you need a chip for it. I wish someone would post some data or dyno numbers from adjusting the timing while running the nitrous. Surely someone has this info that they can post.

 

Hank Fan

Why don't you start a new post, maybe they'll listen to you

I think my mind is made up for the Zex Wet System and I'll start with the smallest jets they have. I already run 2 ranges colder than stock plugs with my Denso IT-22's, and I always have my NO Timing Chip if need be. Truthfully I see no reason why a can't run it on my 15 degree street side of the Diablo Delta Chip. Maybe I'll run the 4lb lower only with the juice 1st pass. With 4lbs only my 15 degree street tune is rich because the Delta Chip is tuned for 7lbs of extra Pulley. I run it that way all winter for safty reasons. "LOVE that 3 minute quick change upper pulley"

I'll go post two other places and see what answers we get on the timing and possible Dyno #'s, BBL

BTW
Which one should I get 55-75 HP "or" 75-125 HP ???
YOU KNOW WHAT I'M THINKING RIGHT

 

Rob and Hank you are my kind of guys.Rob I would start out with the 55-75 kit remember they are the same kit just come with different jets.Some of the Miata guys that run Turbo or SC with N2O sometimes have to run the 55hp fuel jet(pill) with the 65hp N2O jet(pill) so watch and see if you are running real real rich then step the fuel pill back one.I'd start off with the 55hp pills fuel and N2O and see how it wants to act.Detonation is what you listen for if you don't hear any you should be fine.Pull a plug from time to time especially at the begining to make sure they are not over heated(lean) or really sooted up(pig rich).You guys are making me want to start modding my L before the warranty is up.
Life is Good,
Jeff T.

 

Jeff, there may just be three of us right here wanting that ZEX kit, 2 more and we can save some money
You've been a big help again, THANKS

 

Rob, I may very well be interested in the Zex kit... How would we save money?

-Mike