A few days back someone posted a picture of a new seal for the rear window. I searched and couldn't find it.

Can someone repost that picture and the part number? I need to buy it quickly so my truck doesn't drown!!

 

I think this is the thread you were looking for.. I dont think it has the part # tho...

https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...hreadid=100586

Sean

 

yeah that was my truck, here's the pics again


old style seal




new updated 02 style seal




i don't have a part #. it wasn't leaking either, just looked really bad and was bound to start leaking eventually, so i took it to the dealer and told them to change the rear seal and halo trim ring to the 02 updated style. they knew exactly what i was talking about cuz its a pretty common problem. If they don't, just show them your seal, and then go to a 02 or 03 f150on the lot and show them the difference

 

if your warranty is still good then make ford eat the cost. I have had a 99 and my 2000's seals replaced under warranty. Just about every f-150 I see needs it done, ford just picked a crap seal to use from the factory.

oh and it only takes like 40 min for them to do it unless they are lazy, then maybe a day.

 

I don't mean to be the bearer of bad news but the item shown in
these photos is not a water seal. The plastic bezel that surrounds the window is simply decorative and is not part of the window. The seal associated with this bezel may direct a bit
of water away but it is not your problem. I know, I just finished replacing the rear window in my '99. Unfortunately this is the
scoop. The frame around '99s and possibly 2000s are multipiece and made of a plastic that tends to crack. I contacted a local windshield repair company locally and he said he must have replaced 50 F150 sliding windows on warrentie from 1998 to 2000. 3M
makes a product that can be used to try and seal the cracks but it is very hard to get to them because the bezel that I was speaking of cannot be removed without first removing the window. My advice is to bite the bullet and replace the rear
window. The cost is about $240 plus $10 for a sleave of 3M
butal rubber window tape. To access the window bolts remove the upper seat belt mounting nut and the trim pieces on the sides and bottom of the window. There is no need to remove the roof headliner. The window will push out but mask everything off because the black seal around the old window is somewhat messy. The old seal can be removed in pretty much one piece by carefully and slowly pulling it off. The remaining pieces of black seal can be removed by repeatedly sticking and removing masking tape. The tape will carry of the stubborn spots of sealer without spreading it around and making a mess.

 

if it is not a water seal then why is it that when the stock seal has failed you can look into the crack where the seal has receded and see into your cab? The seal it self is just a rubber ring that goes in between the gray plastic trim and the cab. If the seal has receded then air and water WILL enter the cab.

 

If you look carefully at the "dust seal" around the window bezel you will see that it is shaped like a 1/4" rope with a small flange on it. The flange has double backed tape on it and is/was affixed to the outer edge of the bezel. When the tape on the "dust seal" fails, as most every '98 thru '00 I have ever seen has, the seal pulls down into the space behind the bezel. That space behind the bezel is "not" the inside of the cab. If you ever take your rear window out you will see this. You can pull the "dust seal" completely off and and the window will not leak as long as the frame is not cracked. The window in this truck is not unique. It is installed the same way that 99% of all the other car windows in the world are and that is with butyl sealing tape. If your window frame is cracked that "dust seal" won't stop a hard dew from leaking into the cab.

 

if thats the case, and that plastic trim doesn't stop any water from getting in teh cab, then to remove it why do you have to take the window out 1st? its gotta be sandwiched inbetween which means there is a possible way for water to get in there

 

Since my truck was bck window was busted in last week, I have already had the window replaced. The instally did a ****tle job and that "dust seal" is sticking out on the sides and the top. It also leaks water when raining or when I wash the truck. The glass shop is going to redo the install to make it right. I'd just like to have the permanent fix done at the same time.

 

fcmiller,
I'm not sure I understand exactly what you are saying, but I know that my '03 DOES have a different seal around the plastic trim that surrounds the back glass. it is different than my 2001 L. It may have been there in '02, but this is the first time I've ever noticed one like it. Dust seal or water seal I don't know, but it is the seal that always looks uneven on the back of older F-150s, it is usually either sticking out or drawn back in. this new one is more square edged and nice and even around the whole back glass.

later,
chris

 

Harley#356 you caught me. You don't need to remove the rear
window to remove the window bezel but you do need to remove
the inside trim pieces on the sides behind the seat belt bolt and the lower trim piece just as though you were going to remove
the window. As for the new style "dust seal" I know what you
are talking about, I have seen them too. I have though about
changing to the new one also simply because they look better.
I don't know if I have ever seen one of the old style seals that had not let go and pulled in behind the window bezel. It looks cheap. As for why your window still leaks maybe the window
flange was bent when the window was broken. A more likely reason is that they did not tighten down on the window studs
enough. The butyl tape that is used to install window is 9mm diameter if they used the correct size according to the service manual. When you tighten the nuts around the window frame the tape is squeezed in between the window frame and the flange on the cabs rear window opening. It's fairly easy but the surfaces need to be clean, the tape needs to be continuous ( no splices) , the flange needs to be flat and the nuts need to be snug.