Power Slider wiring question
Hey RP and anyone else who's put in the rear slider themselves: I am trying to get the factory switch to work with the wiring from the CRLaurence window assembly and can't seem to do it. Depending on how I hook the four wires up to the new switch, I can only get the thing to open or close, not both. On your window, did you already have the complete wiring, i.e. the factory wiring, or are there just the four wires coming from the window (power, ground, and 2 open/close)? Maybe I have the wrong switch? I am still using the wiring diagrams you sent me some time back, but for some reason I can't figure this out. Can you help?
Thanks.
Thanks.
dufunnel,
I only have two wires running from the back glass. (open/close)... and then the other two wires (power/ground) going to different locations immediately around the switch (power- to the delayed window circuit) (ground off of the same ground for the pedals switch, I forget the circuit).
So you have four wires coming from the rear? I wonder if we have different motors in our windows?
RP
I only have two wires running from the back glass. (open/close)... and then the other two wires (power/ground) going to different locations immediately around the switch (power- to the delayed window circuit) (ground off of the same ground for the pedals switch, I forget the circuit).
So you have four wires coming from the rear? I wonder if we have different motors in our windows?
RP
Last edited by Rockpick; Sep 29, 2003 at 12:02 PM.
Yeah, how does your motor get powered if you only have two wires coming from it? I have power/gnd/open/close. The power and ground get connected around the parking lamp area in the dash, but they run back to the motor for the window. The open and close should work the same way. You think my switch isn't the right one? Is there any way to get the internal schematic of the switch to see what the connections are when activated? Man this is driving me crazy.
I'm not sure what to tell you...
Yes, I only have two wires going to the rear... and there were only two wires coming off of the motor itself.
7 wires come off of my switch's pig tail.
Two go to the rear and are spliced to pin #1 and pin #7 on the switch. The other wires all tie into the adjustable pedals switch (grounds and illumination power/ground) except for the POWER (pin #2) which goes down and ties into circuit #400 which is the delayed one for the windows.
Not sure if that helps anymore... I'm confused... Maybe your switch is different?
RP
Yes, I only have two wires going to the rear... and there were only two wires coming off of the motor itself.
7 wires come off of my switch's pig tail.
Two go to the rear and are spliced to pin #1 and pin #7 on the switch. The other wires all tie into the adjustable pedals switch (grounds and illumination power/ground) except for the POWER (pin #2) which goes down and ties into circuit #400 which is the delayed one for the windows.
Not sure if that helps anymore... I'm confused... Maybe your switch is different?
RP
It sounds like RP's window just reverses the polarity to make the motor run different directions. It sounds ultimately a little more complicated than running a power and ground off a motor and using two other wires to send the forward/backward signals.
dufunnel, check your ground on the switch and motor that might be causing your problem. It could be a bad/wrong switch too. I've never worked with a reversable switch so I'm kinda pulling ideas out my butt.
I've had light switches that do "stages" get goofy if the ground isn't hooked up at the switch.
dufunnel, check your ground on the switch and motor that might be causing your problem. It could be a bad/wrong switch too. I've never worked with a reversable switch so I'm kinda pulling ideas out my butt.
I've had light switches that do "stages" get goofy if the ground isn't hooked up at the switch.
I'll try that. I had one of the grounds hooked up but not all three. I didn't have enough jumpers to try that out. Guess I'll have to try some crimp connectors to check the operation.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Won't work without all grounds attached.Your "fancy" switch is really supporting multiple circuits. Position "A" on your switch is a circuit dedicated to the OPEN function and position "B" is dedicated to the CLOSE function. Unless you complete the circuit the window won't operate. You may have had the close function wired, but not the open; so the window would not open and was already closed making it appear that it wasn't operating at all.
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That's kind of what I gathered after thinking about it further. I wondered why all the grounds on the switch. I figured they would be common. Oh well, we'll try this again this weekend.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Originally posted by dufunnel
No, I haven't had the time to mess with it anymore. Probably won't until late November now, as I am in the process of packing and moving.
No, I haven't had the time to mess with it anymore. Probably won't until late November now, as I am in the process of packing and moving.
RP
Originally posted by RockPick
Best of luck with the move dufunnel. I don't envy you as I had to do it just about 2 months ago. I don't think I'm ever going to leave this house now. HA! Well, unless someone comes in and moves it all for me.
RP
Best of luck with the move dufunnel. I don't envy you as I had to do it just about 2 months ago. I don't think I'm ever going to leave this house now. HA! Well, unless someone comes in and moves it all for me.
RP
Glad it's all over with. Have fun dufunnel.
So, where did you guys get your power sliders, and how much? also, where did you mount the switch? Just cut a hole, and put it in the factory spot? I eventually want to add this to my truck along with adjustable pedals... assuming it can be done. I haven't done any research...
I got lucky and found mine on ebay. It was one off of the Factory Line (so I was told) and it DID NOT come with the switch kit etc... In turn, I got it CHEAP (relatively speaking).
For the switch, I went out and found a late model Ford Contour at my local junkyard and pulled the switch and harness out of the passenger side door... hence, this is the same switch that Ford uses (with a different wire color schematic - which was, obviously, no problem).
My switch is mounted in the stock location right next to the pedals switch. I attempted to cut out the hole for the switch myself but ended up with it 'slightly' crooked so, I pulled that entire piece off my dash and replaced it with the one that had both cut outs.
There's a thread floating around in the KR forum that documents all the details and such... I'll see if I can find it for you.
RP
For the switch, I went out and found a late model Ford Contour at my local junkyard and pulled the switch and harness out of the passenger side door... hence, this is the same switch that Ford uses (with a different wire color schematic - which was, obviously, no problem).
My switch is mounted in the stock location right next to the pedals switch. I attempted to cut out the hole for the switch myself but ended up with it 'slightly' crooked so, I pulled that entire piece off my dash and replaced it with the one that had both cut outs.
There's a thread floating around in the KR forum that documents all the details and such... I'll see if I can find it for you.
RP


