HD Headlight Harness
HD Headlight Harness
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fe/full.aspx?Page=52
Has anyone used this type of harness?
Will i see a benefit? Might just create my own.
Has anyone used this type of harness?
Will i see a benefit? Might just create my own.
i did the DIY version of this for my fog lamps and my headlamps.
The factory wiring only triggers the relay now.
I did not light meter the delta on my truck, but the motorcycle when i did this when installing the OSRAM + bulbs ( sold as Silverstar Ultra in the US ) I got a lumen output increase when using 14 AWG wire as well as a 0.2 A draw decrease checked with a clamp meter.
Wish I had done the light meter on the truck for the fogs and headlamps as well.
Easy enough to build your own if you are good with assembling the parts.
You can go the cut and install method of the "HD wire harness" like autozone has ( these are really just extensions for the bulb connector ) or Rallylights.com has bulb connectors if you want to crimp and solder your own.
I used the old bulbs to cap the factory connectors.
I broke the bulb, dremmeled out the base and liquid electrical tapped where I dremmeled into the bulb connector. This installed into the unused connector will protect it from the elements, and it will not have a chance of getting up against ground. Make sure to meter the bulb connector pins to make sure it shows an open.
This brand, got me it does not give a wire size, could be an external 16 AWG wire used in this one, and be about the same as the factory wiring.
The powerstroke site seems to use the dfuser brand external headlamp harness, but I do not know much about this either.
The factory wiring only triggers the relay now.
I did not light meter the delta on my truck, but the motorcycle when i did this when installing the OSRAM + bulbs ( sold as Silverstar Ultra in the US ) I got a lumen output increase when using 14 AWG wire as well as a 0.2 A draw decrease checked with a clamp meter.
Wish I had done the light meter on the truck for the fogs and headlamps as well.
Easy enough to build your own if you are good with assembling the parts.
You can go the cut and install method of the "HD wire harness" like autozone has ( these are really just extensions for the bulb connector ) or Rallylights.com has bulb connectors if you want to crimp and solder your own.
I used the old bulbs to cap the factory connectors.
I broke the bulb, dremmeled out the base and liquid electrical tapped where I dremmeled into the bulb connector. This installed into the unused connector will protect it from the elements, and it will not have a chance of getting up against ground. Make sure to meter the bulb connector pins to make sure it shows an open.
This brand, got me it does not give a wire size, could be an external 16 AWG wire used in this one, and be about the same as the factory wiring.
The powerstroke site seems to use the dfuser brand external headlamp harness, but I do not know much about this either.
Did you hack your OEM one up? I would just create my own. And as for increase, are you asking over stock? Yes, maybe. You might lower the voltage drop loss a bit and gain a few lumens, but far too little for your eye to tell.
It is more than a few lumen, and the delta can be seen with your eyes.
I actually did this left stock to right ext harness on my truck and left to right on the GL1500. This is not an opinion but actual testing that I did.
What a web site to copy paste from ?
http://www.dfuser.com/Install%20Guid...bs%20facts.pdf
9007 metered example
From my actual testing, this is a very true statement
I actually did this left stock to right ext harness on my truck and left to right on the GL1500. This is not an opinion but actual testing that I did.
What a web site to copy paste from ?
http://www.dfuser.com/Install%20Guid...bs%20facts.pdf
9007 metered example
1. STOCK BULBS truck running inside shop:
Battery voltage 14.39
Voltage at lamp socket 12.68
Current 1 low beam 4.5A
Light brightness at 10ft 2830 LUX
2. Rewired lamp thru 30A relay, fused, and 12G wire directly to battery:
Battery voltage 14.39
Voltage at lamp socket 14.28
Current 4.5A
Light brightness at 10ft 3770 LUX
Factory Sylvania bulbs via external harness 33% % increase or 940.
3. Upgraded Sylvania 9007ST Silver Star lamps (Stock wiring setup):
Battery voltage 14.38
Voltage at lamp socket 12.69
Current 5.0A
Light brightness at 10ft 3100 LUX
4. Rewired lamp thru 30A relay, fused, and 12G wire directly to battery:
Battery voltage 14.39
Voltage at lamp socket 14.30
Current 5.0A
Light brightness at 10ft 4580 LUX
Sylvania Silver Star lamps 48% increase or 1480.
Battery voltage 14.39
Voltage at lamp socket 12.68
Current 1 low beam 4.5A
Light brightness at 10ft 2830 LUX
2. Rewired lamp thru 30A relay, fused, and 12G wire directly to battery:
Battery voltage 14.39
Voltage at lamp socket 14.28
Current 4.5A
Light brightness at 10ft 3770 LUX
Factory Sylvania bulbs via external harness 33% % increase or 940.
3. Upgraded Sylvania 9007ST Silver Star lamps (Stock wiring setup):
Battery voltage 14.38
Voltage at lamp socket 12.69
Current 5.0A
Light brightness at 10ft 3100 LUX
4. Rewired lamp thru 30A relay, fused, and 12G wire directly to battery:
Battery voltage 14.39
Voltage at lamp socket 14.30
Current 5.0A
Light brightness at 10ft 4580 LUX
Sylvania Silver Star lamps 48% increase or 1480.
The higher output of the SilverStar replacement lamps (or any other lamp upgrade for that matter) will really not be noticed until you improve the wiring.
SSCULLY, thanks for posting. Was that testing done on a Ford truck? I've come across this years ago thinking I had crappy voltage but I'm getting ~14.1v at my sockets. So I'd guess this is a case-by-case basis. Wouldn't hurt to check.
Thanks for the info guys! I am going to measure and see what voltage I am getting at the lights. I will probably create my own. Cheaper.
I currently have Philips X-treme Power bulbs which helped a lot in my lightning housings, but i still feel there is more left.
I currently have Philips X-treme Power bulbs which helped a lot in my lightning housings, but i still feel there is more left.
Viper, you should do a voltage drop loss test as well. That will help center down how much, if any, loss is present in the system. IMO, Ford did pretty decent with the OEM wiring. There can be a small increase but generally on the trucks I've modified, every single one was above 13.8vDC. Also keep in mind, with higher voltage, luminance will increase, but bulb lifetime will decrease. Usually not much on either end but doesn't hurt to keep in mind.
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don't forget voltage is not the only thing to make a light work.
Current means just as much to generating wattage as volts ( P=VI ).
Too many times this part is forgotten about by using a meter set to DCV and checking the end of an open wire that has no load on it.
If this was a definitive test, you could use 26 AWG wire, and get the same test results with the length the headlamps need, but you cannot run headlamps on 26 AWG wire.
A Clamp meter before and after would show if there is an issue with the size of the wire. A better test is a light meter, but this is one of those things that not every has.
Considering you went with Philips X-treme Power bulbs, you might find they work better if you upgrade the wiring.
I know I found this to be true on my ZG-1000, My GL 1500 and my '06 running Silverstar lamps in the fogs and in the headlamps.
They did not burn as bright on the factory wiring.
Look at the better AUX lamps, they run 2 circuits to the aux lamps.
My Hella grille upgrade on my '06 came with 2 relays and 2 circuits to the lamps, rather than a single wire that is connected to both lamps.
KC has sets of AUX lamps that use 5 pin relays, but they are not terminal 87 & 87A, but 2 terminal 87 ( non standard ) on the same relay, they only have the large wire to the relay, and 16 AWG to each individual lamp.
the example above ( the URL to the PDF on the testing information ) did not specify what the testing was done on.
This does not exclude you from having an issue due to the wire size.
Current means just as much to generating wattage as volts ( P=VI ).
Too many times this part is forgotten about by using a meter set to DCV and checking the end of an open wire that has no load on it.
If this was a definitive test, you could use 26 AWG wire, and get the same test results with the length the headlamps need, but you cannot run headlamps on 26 AWG wire.
A Clamp meter before and after would show if there is an issue with the size of the wire. A better test is a light meter, but this is one of those things that not every has.
Considering you went with Philips X-treme Power bulbs, you might find they work better if you upgrade the wiring.
I know I found this to be true on my ZG-1000, My GL 1500 and my '06 running Silverstar lamps in the fogs and in the headlamps.
They did not burn as bright on the factory wiring.
Look at the better AUX lamps, they run 2 circuits to the aux lamps.
My Hella grille upgrade on my '06 came with 2 relays and 2 circuits to the lamps, rather than a single wire that is connected to both lamps.
KC has sets of AUX lamps that use 5 pin relays, but they are not terminal 87 & 87A, but 2 terminal 87 ( non standard ) on the same relay, they only have the large wire to the relay, and 16 AWG to each individual lamp.
the example above ( the URL to the PDF on the testing information ) did not specify what the testing was done on.
This does not exclude you from having an issue due to the wire size.
Look at the better AUX lamps, they run 2 circuits to the aux lamps.
My Hella grille upgrade on my '06 came with 2 relays and 2 circuits to the lamps, rather than a single wire that is connected to both lamps.
KC has sets of AUX lamps that use 5 pin relays, but they are not terminal 87 & 87A, but 2 terminal 87 ( non standard ) on the same relay, they only have the large wire to the relay, and 16 AWG to each individual lamp.
i think I am just going to buy a kit to make it easier on myself. i just dont know which to get...
http://www.importvision.com/index.ph...ng%20Harnesses
or
http://www.puredieselpower.com/catal...ade-p-111.html
or
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOKYA-RELAY-...item1e672e454c
or
http://www.dfuser.com/catalog/harness.php
or the lmc one
all vary in price but im sure quality and wire size is different?
http://www.importvision.com/index.ph...ng%20Harnesses
or
http://www.puredieselpower.com/catal...ade-p-111.html
or
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOKYA-RELAY-...item1e672e454c
or
http://www.dfuser.com/catalog/harness.php
or the lmc one
all vary in price but im sure quality and wire size is different?
1. Import vision one, I cannot make out the relays, they could be standard. No note on wire size either
2. Is a dfuser one. the item is shown as DFUSER [CIS/WIR-9007] It is priced for purchae through a vendor, mfgrs usually post MSRP on their site to drive business through resellers and not under cut them.
3. NOKYA one from eBay uses an odd size relay, so if you had to replace one, it could be an issue finding it.
4. This is the mfgr site for the same as #2.
The DFuser one seems to be the best for AWG size and uses std relays
( Replacement Relays are available from NAPA Part# AR350, Pilot BK 7355760, or we have them in stock here)
That is my opinion on the topic.
2. Is a dfuser one. the item is shown as DFUSER [CIS/WIR-9007] It is priced for purchae through a vendor, mfgrs usually post MSRP on their site to drive business through resellers and not under cut them.
3. NOKYA one from eBay uses an odd size relay, so if you had to replace one, it could be an issue finding it.
4. This is the mfgr site for the same as #2.
The DFuser one seems to be the best for AWG size and uses std relays
( Replacement Relays are available from NAPA Part# AR350, Pilot BK 7355760, or we have them in stock here)
That is my opinion on the topic.


