Hello,
I have some general questions on how (if it's a good idea) to add some refrigerant to AC system.
I have '97 SC and even though the AC works it looks like it doesn't cool as good as it was last year. I am planning on buying some R-134a and an adapter. I've went through the manual but still want to make sure that I'll be doing this correctly.
I would appreciate if some one cold point me in the right direction…
The first thing is where is the low-pressure inlet where I'm supposed to connect the adapter. I found the dryer right under the main fuse box on the right side of the vehicle. The dryer has an inlet on its side. Is this it? Or I am missing something…
Second, do I need to have R-134a with or without oil?
Thanks much in advance,
Alex.

 

IMHO, it's not worth taking the chance @ doing $1200 in damage. I'd go to a shop and have it done properly.

 

The bigest problem with these Diy cans is you have no idea what the pressure readings are doing when you use one. If it isn't low then it raises the pressures too high. If it is low how do you know when to stop filling? Please use guages or let someone with proper equipment service it.

 

Not being meen but you need to get it serviced right i my self am a HVAC pipefitter, work on all types of refridgeration stuff, i dont think you can even buy 134 without a license, i know gauges and hoses and other stuff you need a license and also those lil cans are dangerous open one up when its hot out and copoutoa blow yourself up , other than that its very easy to charge a system , but take it in it will save you in the long run

 

Another thing that hasn't been mentioned is that if your AC system is in fact loosing Refrigerant then it has a leak.

So, not only do you want to take it in to refill it properly but you also want to find and repair the leak. I'm not sure what 134 cost these days, it's been a few years since I worked with it but I can't imagine it's cheap.

SO take it in and have it looked at. Plus, it could be something else wrong with your system.

 

The only true way to charge a unit to specs is to weigh the charge in. That means finding the leak, evacuating, repairing, pulling a vacuum and then weighing the charge in.

 

Go to Wal Mart and buy the hose and 134 in a kit. Buy the can that includes the oil. Forget the can with the leak detector unless you have the correct light to see it.
Don't worry about an overcharge. The system will stop taking the 134.

I know all those that posted before me will disagree but, that's okay, we just did a Ford Ranger about three weeks ago. It was a coversion from R12 to 134.

The R12 is the stuff you need a license to buy.

Unscrew the caps and you will find two different sizes. The hose in the kit will only fit on one and it snaps on like an air hose.

 

Just because something appears to work in the short term, doesn't mean it's the proper solution.

Get it done properly by service station.

(the voice of experience)

 

Add 134A until the system won't take any more.....................................you are kidding, aren't you.

 

Hi,
I was not going to post the update... just don't want to argue with all good people here… but after checking the number of viewed people I think I need to post what I think about it.
First of, I appreciate all replies and believe that in general you're right…you should be careful and if you have a problem you should check the system at the place you can trust.
Next, probably the post will create a huge wave of mess so I didn't mean it
However I believe that nothing is forever and the coolant must leak through all the rubber connectors of the AC system so in a couple of years you can notice that the system works a little bit worthier than it was before…
SO???
I talked to a friend of mine who services AC and I searched the Internet for a week and then I decided to give it a try…
Notes:
1. Please read a label on the kit BEFORE you start because it explains the situations when you should not proceed.
2. If you don't have definite signs that the oil leaks you should not add coolant with oil
3. You must check/measure the pressure on both (low and high) ends of the system
4. You cannot overcharge the system because the compressor has a valve that prevents overcharging. The excess will be blown away, sort of thing…
Procedure:
5. I bought the kit with a nice big gauge that can measure the pressure on low and high end, has a connector to the low end and an adapter to the high end. Murray's, around $25. Don't buy a cheap kit (Autozone, $18, I didn't trust the gauge). Bought a couple of R134, $6 each.
6. The low end is located on the dryer, which is located on the passenger side of the vehicle. The post is located on the side of the aluminum cylinder. The high end is located on the same side by the radiator. Frankly, I don't remember but you would not miss it. Besides, the adapters fit only the port they are made for.
7. Start the vehicle, put the vent on max, put the AC on max.
8. Wait for 5 min until the dryer and low (thick) line will be cold. Attach the gauge to the connector and measure the pressure. The correct pressure range is on the kit but anyway the pressure should be 30-40 psi.
9. Measure the pressure on the high end. Should get somewhere 200-220 psi.
10. If your values are lower than add one can of R134 and then check the pressures again
11. Repeat if needed.
I did both cars mine and wife's. AC works just fine…
Alex.

 

put a high volume fan up to the radiator opening(condensor coil) to simulate truck moving at an appriecable(sic) speed then check readings(bet they are different now)

 

Hey,
Don't do it to me I cannot fall asleep
What are you trying to say?

 

the condensor coil release,s heat(freon moves heat from one point to another,the cold air is just a waste product) if air is not passing over the coils at an apprieciable rate then the heat is not released and your readings will be wrong and can lead to overcharging of the unit(thats one reason you put the fan on high,to move air across the evaperator coils so they absorb the heat,it holds true with the condensing coils)trust me i do this for a living

 

Take it from another A/C man....the fan should always be on high while charging.


Rocks

 

Air across the condensor coil and blower fan speeds are the variables that make weighing in the charge necessary. I work for a commercial refrigeration company in Florida and charging small reach in freezers and coolers is done by weighing the charge in........it works every time without fail. Why do you think Ford prints the R134A capacity in lbs on a label placed under the hood. Charging by high side or low side pressure might get it working but it is certainly not the best way.