I have a 2006 King Ranch, 226,000. Had issues with the carpets getting damp but couldn't find a leak. It was only when I ran the ac, not sure if that makes a difference. Checked the drain tube coming out of the bottom, have no condensation coming from it when it should be while running the ac. Tan some air and a snake through it, not clogged.
-Issue now is after replacing the relay fuse because the compressor wouldn't kick on, it won't get cold.
Charged it with Freon. You can feel a slight temp drop but I live in Florida and that ain't saying much. It's warm at best.
While I've got the gauge on it,it will hold a charge and is in the green, but when the compressor comes on it only runs for a few seconds then hits the point where the compressor has to recharge. I have no idea where to start. I have fixed a lot of stuff on here thanks to you guys and hopefully this will help too. Please let me know if I need more details as this is my first post on here. Thanks again.

 

Compressor clutch short-cycling is almost always a sign that the system is low on refrigerant.

A low side only gauge is of limited diagnostic value. You really need a manifold gauge set to properly diagnose the system.

 

Would I need anything other than a manifold gauge? Because what your saying is making sense because I've got at least a can of refrigerant in there already and no cold air whatsoever.

 

One thing to know is that most of the cans of r134a sold today are self sealing and made to work with those devices sold with the low side gauge where the tap stays inside the can with a hole in the middle of the tap. If you tap the can and then try to use is with a manifold gauge set, the can seals itself and won't fill your system. So, I use the device with the one gauge on the low side pressure point and use my gauge set connected to the high side.

 

Assuming a single 12 oz, the most common size, can into an empty system, you're only got about a third of the system's required 34 oz refrigerant charge. That's enough to make the compressor short-cycle with only negligible, if any, cooling. Since it's unknown how much was in there to start with, it's also unknown how much is in there now.

BTW, never charge into the high-side port of a running system. Tends to make the can go *BOOM*. Just in case there was any confusion...

 

I gotcha. All starting to make sense now. I probably don't have enough in there I'm assuming.

 

The way the pros charge a system is this - they use a vacuum pump to completely evacuate the system. They then use a keg of refrigerant on a scale and charge it to the specified weight.

 

I just ran some dye through it just to make sure I didn't have any leaks. As of right now I haven't found one. However when I disconnected the gauge/hose from the low pressure port it was leaking out of the top. I could hear it and see the dye. I did not notice this before and I'm just gonna go ahead and state the obvious that it probably shouldn't be doing that I'd imagine? I thought maybe it may be stuck open but I couldn't get it to stop. Put the cap back on and no problem obviously. How bad of an issue is this?

 

I like to watch mechanic videos and one I watch "rainman ray" always replaces those schrader valve cores when he repairs an AC system because they are so prone to leakage.

 

Well it's fixed. I took the advice and watched some videos but ultimately what it ended up being was the orphice tube and my schrader valves. Tan dye through it, no leaks. Went to harbor freight bought the manifold gauges, and vacuum pump. After that was done replaced the valves and the tube, which by the way was disgusting, pretty sure it had some type of new organisms growing on it. Filled it up with Freon and basically $100 later I've gold ice cold ac. I appreciate all the advice and tips.