No Heat----With a Twist....
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
No Heat----With a Twist....
Okay.... 1999 F-150, a/c, manual transmission.........I also have no heat, but I also have a twist to the problem. It also seems that my selector switch won't switch from defrost no matter what selection I put it on. Any ideas?
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 776
Likes: 0
From: Guyton, GA USA
I would first remove the selector **** and check to see that the back of the **** where the shaft goes has not cracked. If that checks good, I would then check to make sure the vacuum line to the controls is not broken. The line runs along the fender, under the hood on the right side. It goes through the fire wall.
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
New info for y'all. The selector switch is working fine, it is ONLY the temp adjustment that isn't working. I checked the 2 hoses going thru the firewall and assuming that I checked the correct thing, they are both cool to the touch after 20+ minutes driving. This isn't right. I am at a loss. To add to the intrigue, the coolant level in the reservoir isn't changing at all whether the engine is hot or cold. It ALWAYS is at the same level. My engine temp after 20 min. driving is perfectly in the middle of the gauge.
Any ideas now?
Thanks in advance.
Robert
Any ideas now?
Thanks in advance.
Robert
Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
From: St. Louis
New info for y'all. The selector switch is working fine, it is ONLY the temp adjustment that isn't working. I checked the 2 hoses going thru the firewall and assuming that I checked the correct thing, they are both cool to the touch after 20+ minutes driving. This isn't right. I am at a loss. To add to the intrigue, the coolant level in the reservoir isn't changing at all whether the engine is hot or cold. It ALWAYS is at the same level. My engine temp after 20 min. driving is perfectly in the middle of the gauge.
Any ideas now?
Thanks in advance.
Robert
Any ideas now?
Thanks in advance.
Robert
Last edited by D Ryan; Dec 9, 2009 at 09:45 PM. Reason: add
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Hi D Ryan.... not sure on the miles on the pump. Far as I know it is the original so that would be 115,000 or so. I'm starting to think that I felt the wrong hoses, though. One of the 2 that I felt seems to run to the A/C while the other runs to the radiator. I can't find anything in the service manual that show/ tells me where the 2 hoses for the heater core are located at other than that they are on the right (passenger) side of the truck.
Trending Topics
Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
From: St. Louis
Hi D Ryan.... not sure on the miles on the pump. Far as I know it is the original so that would be 115,000 or so. I'm starting to think that I felt the wrong hoses, though. One of the 2 that I felt seems to run to the A/C while the other runs to the radiator. I can't find anything in the service manual that show/ tells me where the 2 hoses for the heater core are located at other than that they are on the right (passenger) side of the truck.
picture Hayes manual 3-10 ,13.3
Last edited by D Ryan; Dec 10, 2009 at 12:49 PM. Reason: add
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Well, I realized that I was checking the wrong hoses. I got the correct ones and after 30 minutes driving, they were close to the same temperature. They are "Warm" to the touch. No where near to hot to hold onto as I have read others say about their lines. Should they be REALLY hot or just warm after 30 minutes driving time.? I'm wondering if this points to a thermostat that is stuck open. Is there a way to test this? The only problem with this theory is that the engine temp guage in the dash sits right in the middle after 5-10 minutes driving time.
Also still confused by the fact that the radiator overflow level never changes whether the engine is hot or cold.
Also still confused by the fact that the radiator overflow level never changes whether the engine is hot or cold.
Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
From: St. Louis
Well, I realized that I was checking the wrong hoses. I got the correct ones and after 30 minutes driving, they were close to the same temperature. They are "Warm" to the touch. No where near to hot to hold onto as I have read others say about their lines. Should they be REALLY hot or just warm after 30 minutes driving time.? I'm wondering if this points to a thermostat that is stuck open. Is there a way to test this? The only problem with this theory is that the engine temp guage in the dash sits right in the middle after 5-10 minutes driving time.
Also still confused by the fact that the radiator overflow level never changes whether the engine is hot or cold.
Also still confused by the fact that the radiator overflow level never changes whether the engine is hot or cold.
Is your system full of anti-freeze?
to check:
Bring eng to operating temp
take raditor cap off and look (remember how full)
now have someone bring the rpms up while you watch the coolant in the rad.
if the coolant disapeers add some, until its full. (rember how much you added)
replace the raditor cap
have your buddy let off on the rpms
fill plastic jug to at least cold level.( remember this level)
Drive around see if heat is better.
To check for circulation with the t-stat closed:
with a cold eng temp , squeeze the top raditor hose, let off the squeeze but feel for a surge of coolant going through the hose. There should be none! If you feel movement of the coolant I would replace the t-stat.
Keep us informed
Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Northern Utah
Low heat in 2001 Screw.
I seem to be having a similar problem to that of Praetorian.
The cabin heater does not get hot, only about 30 deg F above ambient. This makes it quite cool when it is -11 F outside. Heater hoses are marginally hot when vehicle is warm (hard to hold on to, but not hot enough to burn the skin). Both input and output hoses are about the same temp.
The engine temperature gauge sits at about the middle. HVAC temperature control works. I cut the access hole described at Heatertreater.net to verify the mixer door is working. All is okay.
Coolant has been flushed and refilled, twice. This did not change the heater behavior. I even pulled the heater core input hose and forced clean water through the core. There seemed to be reasonable flow.
I noticed that there is a reducer on the heater core input hose. I've thought about drilling it out. Has anyone done this?
I am also pondering on replacing the heater core, just because I am about out of options.
A few questions.
1- Are there any other baffles/flappers that may have failed and be introducing cool ambient air down stream? I wouldn't think so.
2- How can I accurately measure the engine coolant temperature in order to validate that the thermostat is operating at the proper temp?
Eugene
eugene@eugeneb.net
The cabin heater does not get hot, only about 30 deg F above ambient. This makes it quite cool when it is -11 F outside. Heater hoses are marginally hot when vehicle is warm (hard to hold on to, but not hot enough to burn the skin). Both input and output hoses are about the same temp.
The engine temperature gauge sits at about the middle. HVAC temperature control works. I cut the access hole described at Heatertreater.net to verify the mixer door is working. All is okay.
Coolant has been flushed and refilled, twice. This did not change the heater behavior. I even pulled the heater core input hose and forced clean water through the core. There seemed to be reasonable flow.
I noticed that there is a reducer on the heater core input hose. I've thought about drilling it out. Has anyone done this?
I am also pondering on replacing the heater core, just because I am about out of options.
A few questions.
1- Are there any other baffles/flappers that may have failed and be introducing cool ambient air down stream? I wouldn't think so.
2- How can I accurately measure the engine coolant temperature in order to validate that the thermostat is operating at the proper temp?
Eugene
eugene@eugeneb.net
Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
From: St. Louis
I seem to be having a similar problem to that of Praetorian.
The cabin heater does not get hot, only about 30 deg F above ambient. This makes it quite cool when it is -11 F outside. Heater hoses are marginally hot when vehicle is warm (hard to hold on to, but not hot enough to burn the skin). Both input and output hoses are about the same temp.
The engine temperature gauge sits at about the middle. HVAC temperature control works. I cut the access hole described at Heatertreater.net to verify the mixer door is working. All is okay.
Coolant has been flushed and refilled, twice. This did not change the heater behavior. I even pulled the heater core input hose and forced clean water through the core. There seemed to be reasonable flow.
Sence you have the air box cut out you could bring the truck up to operating temp and feel the heater core, it should be very hot! I have heard that you can place your hand in the center and it will be cooler than the edges if cloged. You might try that.
I noticed that there is a reducer on the heater core input hose. I've thought about drilling it out. Has anyone done this?
I am also pondering on replacing the heater core, just because I am about out of options.
A few questions.
1- Are there any other baffles/flappers that may have failed and be introducing cool ambient air down stream? I wouldn't think so.
2- How can I accurately measure the engine coolant temperature in order to validate that the thermostat is operating at the proper temp?
Eugene
eugene@eugeneb.net
The cabin heater does not get hot, only about 30 deg F above ambient. This makes it quite cool when it is -11 F outside. Heater hoses are marginally hot when vehicle is warm (hard to hold on to, but not hot enough to burn the skin). Both input and output hoses are about the same temp.
The engine temperature gauge sits at about the middle. HVAC temperature control works. I cut the access hole described at Heatertreater.net to verify the mixer door is working. All is okay.
Coolant has been flushed and refilled, twice. This did not change the heater behavior. I even pulled the heater core input hose and forced clean water through the core. There seemed to be reasonable flow.
Sence you have the air box cut out you could bring the truck up to operating temp and feel the heater core, it should be very hot! I have heard that you can place your hand in the center and it will be cooler than the edges if cloged. You might try that.
I noticed that there is a reducer on the heater core input hose. I've thought about drilling it out. Has anyone done this?
I am also pondering on replacing the heater core, just because I am about out of options.
A few questions.
1- Are there any other baffles/flappers that may have failed and be introducing cool ambient air down stream? I wouldn't think so.
2- How can I accurately measure the engine coolant temperature in order to validate that the thermostat is operating at the proper temp?
Eugene
eugene@eugeneb.net
For measuring temp I use a capulary guage (cheepie) from harbor freight. I checked accuracy in a pot of boiling water.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=41017
I'm not a fan of any late modle guages.
You seemed to have covered everything, How many miles on the water pump? And t-stat Cold sucks at -11!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Last edited by D Ryan; Dec 14, 2009 at 07:44 PM. Reason: delete
Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Northern Utah
D Ryan,
Interesting information on the hand test. I did feel the heater core and it was relatively cool in the middle, but too hot to touch at the very edges.
The water pump is original. I have about 120 k miles on it. With the heater core getting hot, I would expect that the water pump is okay.
When I was flushing the coolant, I considered pulling the output hose and pushing water through it backwards. However, the output hose is a bugger to get to and I wimped out. I might have to make another attempt before spending a day pulling the dash to replace the heater core.
I will be replacing the thermostat this weekend. I don't suspect that this will solve the problem, but they are cheap and easy. It will eliminate one more thing and give me one known data point as I make this used truck my own.
I do have a multiple input thermocouple instrument, but I didn't know where to measure engine temp. I guess that I will just have to tape some on the hoses and insulate them from the ambient environment.
This truck is turning into more of a "project" than I need.
Thanks for the help.
Interesting information on the hand test. I did feel the heater core and it was relatively cool in the middle, but too hot to touch at the very edges.
The water pump is original. I have about 120 k miles on it. With the heater core getting hot, I would expect that the water pump is okay.
When I was flushing the coolant, I considered pulling the output hose and pushing water through it backwards. However, the output hose is a bugger to get to and I wimped out. I might have to make another attempt before spending a day pulling the dash to replace the heater core.
I will be replacing the thermostat this weekend. I don't suspect that this will solve the problem, but they are cheap and easy. It will eliminate one more thing and give me one known data point as I make this used truck my own.
I do have a multiple input thermocouple instrument, but I didn't know where to measure engine temp. I guess that I will just have to tape some on the hoses and insulate them from the ambient environment.
This truck is turning into more of a "project" than I need.
Thanks for the help.
Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
From: St. Louis
D Ryan,
Interesting information on the hand test. I did feel the heater core and it was relatively cool in the middle, but too hot to touch at the very edges.
The water pump is original. I have about 120 k miles on it. With the heater core getting hot, I would expect that the water pump is okay.
When I was flushing the coolant, I considered pulling the output hose and pushing water through it backwards. However, the output hose is a bugger to get to and I wimped out. I might have to make another attempt before spending a day pulling the dash to replace the heater core.
I will be replacing the thermostat this weekend. I don't suspect that this will solve the problem, but they are cheap and easy. It will eliminate one more thing and give me one known data point as I make this used truck my own.
I do have a multiple input thermocouple instrument, but I didn't know where to measure engine temp. I guess that I will just have to tape some on the hoses and insulate them from the ambient environment.
This truck is turning into more of a "project" than I need.
Thanks for the help.
Interesting information on the hand test. I did feel the heater core and it was relatively cool in the middle, but too hot to touch at the very edges.
The water pump is original. I have about 120 k miles on it. With the heater core getting hot, I would expect that the water pump is okay.
When I was flushing the coolant, I considered pulling the output hose and pushing water through it backwards. However, the output hose is a bugger to get to and I wimped out. I might have to make another attempt before spending a day pulling the dash to replace the heater core.
I will be replacing the thermostat this weekend. I don't suspect that this will solve the problem, but they are cheap and easy. It will eliminate one more thing and give me one known data point as I make this used truck my own.
I do have a multiple input thermocouple instrument, but I didn't know where to measure engine temp. I guess that I will just have to tape some on the hoses and insulate them from the ambient environment.
This truck is turning into more of a "project" than I need.
Thanks for the help.
The water pump might be ok, but if your going to replace the core its cheap insurance to replace the pump. Check out the picture in this post the f150 had 150k on it . The metal from that impeller had to go somewhere.
http://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=47398
Probely dont need the t-stat you have the heat its not geting disapated.
You could make a tee in the heater hose for a gauge pickup. I did that on a olds 3.1 a few years ago, works good.
Keep us informed
Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Northern Utah
Well, I replaced my heater core. When I cut it open, the input side was definitely plugged. There as a sludge material in the cavity and most of the small pipe openings were plugged. I guess that the previous owner did not have it serviced regularly.
One interesting note. The fin area of the original heater core was nearly twice as thick as the aluminum replacement purchased from NAPA. The original core had double sets of pipes running through the fins, the replacement was only one deep. The PartsPlus core was identical to the NAPA core. NAPA had at least one upgrade option, but they did not have it in stock, so I don't know if the high price option was any better.
Also, the replacement heater cores from NAPA and PartsPlus lacked sufficient foam tape to surround the core. The foam tape from the old core was too deteriorated to remove. I managed to scavenge enough off of the old one to fill the gaps. It would pay to buy some adhesive backed weather stripping if you end up a part like I had.
Nevertheless, the job is done and I now have heat in my cabin. The sludge worries me though. I may need to replace the engine radiator. I would hate to have my heater core get plugged up again.
One interesting note. The fin area of the original heater core was nearly twice as thick as the aluminum replacement purchased from NAPA. The original core had double sets of pipes running through the fins, the replacement was only one deep. The PartsPlus core was identical to the NAPA core. NAPA had at least one upgrade option, but they did not have it in stock, so I don't know if the high price option was any better.
Also, the replacement heater cores from NAPA and PartsPlus lacked sufficient foam tape to surround the core. The foam tape from the old core was too deteriorated to remove. I managed to scavenge enough off of the old one to fill the gaps. It would pay to buy some adhesive backed weather stripping if you end up a part like I had.
Nevertheless, the job is done and I now have heat in my cabin. The sludge worries me though. I may need to replace the engine radiator. I would hate to have my heater core get plugged up again.