The air in my truck just doesn't seem as cold as it should be, When it's hot out I can turn it on high and recirculate and never feel like I need to turn it down, then occasionaly after driving for a while it will get to the point where it doesn't feel like the air is blowing very cold at all.Took it to the dealer yesterday because it was the last day of my factory warranty and they say that everything checks out fine and that it is blowing 41 degree air. Any ideas on what may be wrong or how to get the dealer to fix it?

 

did your dealer check to see if you have any leaks in the condenser? I was with my buddy when he had the exact thing happen. took it to a dealer and they said it was ok. he went to a second dealer and they did it right. the mechanic put a therometer in the vent and checked to see what the temp was inside after about 10 mins. The mechanic then sprayed a dye only visible through uv goggles. The mechanic found a couple of small leaks on the condenser line. The leaks were only visible through the goggles. The leaking parts were replaced and the ac worked like new. Good luck, i would seek a second opinion.

 

according to the dealer the refrigerant pressure was fine, and they say the air coming out of the vents was 41 degrees.

 

I took my 05 in yesterday for the same complaint. They said they found a bad O ring on the compressor and replaced it. I can't tell any difference though. The truck cools, it just doesn't cool all that well.

I put a meat thermometer in my vent with AC on max and the lowest it will go with 90* plus outside air is 50*. This morning on the way to work it was blowing about 40*. It feels good as long as it doesn't get too hot outside.

Is this a bad design or what?

 

somewhere i read on here for the 04 and 05 models there is a FAN CLUTCH recall or tsb... that it is not big enough... i think they fixed it in the newer models.

 

I don't understand it, when it's 90 outside I can have my air on high, recirculating and it's still kinda warm in the cab, my wife's 4 cylinder camry I can turn the air on low and it will freeze me out. Maybe all the 04 and 05's are like this?

 

I have observed mnay complaints of insufficient AC cooling on these particular year's models.

Two things have been suggested: Insufficient charge from the factory (which has already been checked and verified okay on your truck) or a blend door that is not closing completely.

Several owners have posted that they installed a coolant shutoff valve to stop heater core flow and have "fixed" the symptom. I also recall that Ford published a TSB for my old, long-gone 93 Exploder to install a vacuum-operated shutoff valve that would block off heater core flow when the control was in MAX. Perhaps they need to recycle that solution...

Steve

 

There's a post in 2004 to present on this. Some have added a manual valve to shut off the coolant flow through the heater core. It lowers the air temperature at the vents by about 10 degrees. I haven't done this measurement.

I would like to come up with a mod to add a "heater control valve" to my 2008 F150.

I found a heater control valve part (motorcraft YG389) for f250-550 2003-2008 for $14. It's vacuum operated. Need to figure where to tee into vacuum on my 2008 f150.

But I think the newer F150 is all electric, so the vacuum valve part might not work out.

The next alternative is to find a 2 port electric heater control valve and wire it into the AC recirculate circuit. (or what ever else is available) Might need to add a relay since 12V DC solenoid valves tend to surge current when turned on.

Here's a link, its a looooong post!

https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=336684

Jerry

 

I just had the same problem with my 2005 Larriet. The AC just stopped blowing cold - the problem got worse over time. I have 55,000 miles so I sort of expect stuff to go bad after this long. I took it to the dealer yesterday. They diagnosed it as having a bad "accumulator" - whatever it is it costs $150.00. That's just the beginning though. To replace the part they had to remove the freon, do a "dye" test, change some sort of oil and charge labor. My aftermarket warrantee (thru Warrantech to 75k miles) covered the accumulator and nothing else.

Total cost of repair: $496.00

Result: Ice cold air.

Value: I live in Florida - Priceless

 

Did that fix it?

I am sweating like crazy.

 

Did that fix it? Yes and no.

I too had the merry go reound you're on where it cooks you and freezes the service tech. It is maddening to say the least - though I took care to treat the tech and service manager with the utmost respect - they are just people afterall. Anyway, I drove directly to the dealership yesterday to prove to them it was cooking me - despite the fix. I even had a freezer thermometer to prove it. This time they agreed with me. I just got it back this afternoon. The said there was a leak in the orifice hose. Apparently leaks cause intermittent operation - thus we both were "right" - but just "right" part of the time.

it appears to be fixed now. I ran the forums fixes past their tech, i.e., the heater hose valve - e-fans and blend doors. They said they'd heard of all that stuff. They nixed the valve as being possibly harmful. The e-fans are $600 plus installation. They did however check the blend door twice.

Like I said - hopefully - it is fixed now.

 

I have the same problem with my 06. I've found that hitting the "Auto" button and then adjusting the fan speed and temperature after each start-up works REALLY well.

I've only had this truck for 2 weeks but have definitely noticed the AC does not blow as cold as it should. I plan on taking it to the Ford dealer soon to have it looked out by a professional as my truck is still well within the warranty period.

 

I'm certainly not going to say that none of you have any problems with any part of your air con systems.

I am going to tell you though, that NO new vehicles, of any model, or any brand will "freeze you out" as it is often described, like that same vehicle made before about 2004. The answer is quite simple; The new coolant which is used is just not as efficient, as the stuff used before about 2004. Oh sure, it's not near so bad for the environment, but unfortunately, it's not near so good for keeping your car cool either.

Every car I had back in the day, would get so cold, that you had to back off on the air con. But last year, I bought a brand new Hyundai Accent, and it's the same way, as my brand new F150..... which is to say, if its hot outside... like 95 plus degrees, you pretty much have to run the air con full blast, for 10 or 15 minutes, just to make it comfortable, and you will be hard pressed to ever back off on it..... until about 8pm when the sun goes below the horizon.
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And speaking of technology going the wrong way.... Compared to the "good ol' cancer causing asbestos break pads"..... the new break pads suck too ! They build more heat, they don't last as long, they are more likely to squeal..... But now you will have to look elsewhere for your daily dose of cancer causing agents.

So anyway, that's what's up with your air cons,
Fish

 

R134a was put into use in the 1990's to replace R12. That's the same refrigerant they're still using today in automotive. Not sure what you mean by the 2004 to present reference.
It may be true that R12 cooled better but that hasn't went in a new vehicle since the early 90's.

 

It was 96 here today and my AC did well. It does take a few minutes to cool the big cab of a screw but after that time I have to back it down.