AC compressor trouble: many questions

Old Jun 22, 2005 | 07:52 AM
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AC compressor trouble: many questions

From reading some of the threads in here about the AC compressor it sounds like only my clutch may be bad. Anyways for some time now it has been making some noise but I only discovered the source this week because I have an exhaust leak. At that time the compressor was only turning about 1/4 turn at a time. I hoped it would last to the weekend and I would replace it.
Unfortuanetly it locked up on me yesterday and the truck will not start with the belt around the AC, leaving me stranded.
I have several questions. First with it locked up is it still just a clutch replacement job?
Secondly, if I have to replace the compressor is this a job I can do? I am an average at home mechanic. And if I can replace the compressor do I have to depressurize it?
I've also read that when replacing the clutch its easier to remove the compressor. Are you able to take it completely out of the truck or just drop it down to where its easier to work on?

For those who have their compressor's replaced by the pro's how much did it cost? How much for a clutch job? Trying to weigh out whether its better to save money or my time.

I would appreciate any and all replies. Thanks guys!
 
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Old Jun 23, 2005 | 06:56 PM
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From: Georgia on my mind...
First with it locked up is it still just a clutch replacement job?
Depends. See if the pulley spins with the belt off by hand. Failing that, remove the center 8mm bolt, the flexplate, the snap ring that retains the pulley, and the pulley and see if the shaft on the compressor itself rotates freely. If so, you just need the clutch.
Secondly, if I have to replace the compressor is this a job I can do? I am an average at home mechanic. And if I can replace the compressor do I have to depressurize it?
Yes, the system must be evacuated to replace the compressor. You could tote it to an A/C shop and have them recover the refrigerant, you can replace the compressor yourself then tote it back to them to have the system swept and recharged. Don't go cracking lines open while there's refrigerant in the system, and don't recharge it without vacuuming the system down first (that's the "sweep" part) to remove moisture from the lines and components.
I've also read that when replacing the clutch its easier to remove the compressor. Are you able to take it completely out of the truck or just drop it down to where its easier to work on?
I'm highly recommend removing the compressor to replace the clutch assembly. It's easy to damage the field coil if it's not driven on squarely.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2005 | 03:34 AM
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I tried turning the pulley. It is totally locked up, cannot move it at all. So it looks to me like its probably just the clutch, correct?

If I remove the compressor to replace the clutch do I need the system evacuated? I've never touched a compressor before or any part of the AC or heater system. So I'm basically clueless on this job. I checked my Haynes manual and it only tells how to remove the compressor, nothing at all about replacing the clutch, so I may need some good instructions on how to do this.

Right now I cannot drive my truck at all, I'm driving my wife's car. But next week she needs the car so I must have my truck running. I'm thinking for a quick repair I'll get a shorter belt and bypass the AC.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2005 | 08:33 AM
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No, you don't need to discharge the A/C to remove the clutch. Matter of fact, disregard my previous post. Just take the center 8mm bolt off the front plate, pull the plate off a little and try turning the plate itself, see if it spins freely. If it does, then so does the compressor, and you'll only need a clutch.
 
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Old Jun 28, 2005 | 12:01 AM
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I say with a good circlip tool and mirror, replacing it in place is the way to go.Should take an hour or two.No gas problems. 8mm remove hub, then cirlip, slide off pulley/brearing and replace. Maybe a little pent oil on clip if rusted. I had to tap old pulley on side to slowly "rock" off by hand. New one slips right on. Replacing the coil will take longer, and is not needed. Check gap (between clutch plates) and add/remove shims a needed on 8 mm bolt. About 1/64" gap or so. Oh, use the A/C clutch to help hold pulley to loosen and tighten. Turn ignition on and A/C on , serp belt in place holds it fropm turning . Mark in Mantua Ohio
 
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Old Jun 28, 2005 | 03:44 AM
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Thanks guys for the advice. I ordered a shorter belt that should be in today. SO if it works I will be bypassing the ac for now. I simply don't have time to work on it, I just started a cycle of 20 working days in which I will be working 10-12 hours a day. There is no time right now, but as soon as I have a day off I'll be getting on this. I think I will attempt to do it myself. But before I do I will try Quintin's suggestion to make sure its the clutch. If its the compressor I'll probably have someone do it.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2005 | 03:34 AM
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Well I am finally attempting to fix this thing. I found out why its locked up, the bearins are all over the place and are wedged between the pulley and the shaft. I got the face plate off but now I'm having trouble getting the pulley off I think because of the bearings.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2005 | 10:52 PM
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Mine were busting up too, but no lockup (Told ya it was the bearing). Have u removed the circlip? Sprayed with oil and let soak. I think I rappped alternate sides of pulley while applying light prying force with screwdriver (flat blade between pulley and compressor body.The "rocking off" action must be equal as the gap (bearing to shaft) is tight. Go slow, don't break it. Let us know how it goes Mark
 
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Old Aug 12, 2005 | 03:44 AM
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The circlip came off with no problem. Didn't have time to work on it last night. I had to get truck back to running order so wife could have her car today. I might be able to work on it some over the weekend. I've been working 7 days a week so I only have a couple of hours each night to work on the truck.
I was trying the rocking motion before, hopefully it works better next try. Now that I know it works and I'm not working in vain.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2005 | 07:58 AM
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Old Aug 14, 2005 | 12:00 PM
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FWIW, I just changed my clutch/pulley on my Exp. Drove for a few hundred miles and noticed the new one was fried... Took it into a shop and had to have a new compressor installed!
Good thing is... in Casper WY, the guy only charged me $375 for the compressor, and $52/hr for 2.5 hrs work! I wish auto labor were that cheap here!
 
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Old Aug 15, 2005 | 02:23 AM
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Well I think I finally have everything off.....except for what remains of the bearing. Its stuck hard on the shaft, I may have to cut it off. I took off the coil because its tore up and about to fall apart. Does the coil come with the clutch? Now I have to go and order a new clutch because everywhere I've called they don't have one in stock.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2005 | 10:03 PM
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The field coil does come with the clutch. And call around!... I got quotes from as low as $88 (at Autozone I think) to $220 @ NAPA.... Paid $134 at the place that had one in stock.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2005 | 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 97Expyguy
The field coil does come with the clutch. And call around!... I got quotes from as low as $88 (at Autozone I think) to $220 @ NAPA.... Paid $134 at the place that had one in stock.
Thanks, I thought it did just thought I'd ask. I can get it at Autozone for I believe $90 but I'll have to order it. I called another place and they wanted about $100, have to order it there too. I still have to call NAPA and a local place. But now that its apart it's going to have to wait until I finish fixing the manifold.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2005 | 08:43 AM
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I just got an OEM clutch assembly/coil for $70 from a guy on eBay that has a store. If you can wait for delivery, you can save a few bucks.
 
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