I had the AC temp control switch replaced a 2 months ago when the AC stopped blowing cold. This appeared to correct the problem of the AC not blowing cold.

Today, the exact same problem has started again. When you turn the **** from cold to warm and back, it doesn't feel like it is "catching". So, after wife turned it to warm earlier today, it now won't blow cold when turned back to cold.

Compressor, freon level, etc. all checked out fine before. So it is something related to the cold/warm temp selection components.

I am going to call the shop that did the work on Monday when they reopen, but looking for any advice from others who have seen the same thing.

 

is the a/c clutch engaging?

 

I am a new user of this web page and the main reason I"m here is I bought a 1997 F-150 to work out of and the only problem I have found is there is no heat when you work the temp controler.Did you have your problem solved.

 

I have just been going with the suggestion made by another member on how he was dealing with it. In order to change the temp, I turn off the AC, wait for the vacuum to release on the blend door mechanism, change to the new temp, then turn AC back on. This works perfectly although it is a hassle.

Saw a response on another similar post that dealer recomended the entire blend door assembly to be replaced at something over a grand. Whatever, I'll keep doing the off, change temp, on drill forever to avoid that bill.

 

FYI, the blend door is electrical not vacuum operated. It moves when the key is in run and the temperaturel **** is moved regardless of where the Mode Selector Switch is positioned, even in OFF. There are tests that can be run on the switch and the motor. If the switch, the motor and the circuits check out then it most likely is the door itself. To replace the door requires removal of the dash.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

I went to the dealership and talked to the a/c tech and on his sugestion I changed the actuator and it fixed my problem. He told me he was pulling about 2 to 3 dashes a month. Sounded like FORD has a huge problem that they are leaving to there customers. The engineneers:devil are the ones who need to be paying the bills on this problem. I'm on my 4th F-150 sence this body style was out, and this is the first ploblem I've had with the trucks. Love the fourm!!!!!

 

Just replaced the temperature control **** on my neighbors 98 XLT. Cost about $12.00 at the dealer. His would not adjust the temp. either.
Just popped out the AC control panel and R&R'd the switch. Took about 10 minutes.

 

JMC,

If the blend door is electronic then why is the temp **** vacuum? Does it go to a vac solenoid then change to an electronic signal?

 

The selector switch; Mac A/C, A/C, Panel, OFF, Panel/Floor, Floor and DEF is a combo electric vavuum switch, the temp control switch is a potentiometer (electric) and the fan speed is an electric switch.

JMC

 

I am specifically interested in the temp control switch. Because that is the one I am having difficulty with.

If it is electrical why does the resistance (In turning the actual switch) get easier when the switch is going bad?

I am not familiar with a potentiometer. Could you please explain how it works?

Thanks.

 

A potentiometer allows you to vary the potential in a circuit. The volume control on your radio is a "pot", and it increases or decreases the voltage to the speakers making it louder or softer. I would say that it is a "dimmer switch", but those are actually Rheostats.

Aren't you glad you asked.

 

Thanks flafonman!!

I understand how both a pot and a stat work. But what I don't understand is that when these switches start to fail they lose their resistance. (Easier to turn)

I have had many volume ***** go bad on various hi-fi equipment and the ***** resistance has never changed.

So I guess I am a little corn-fused.

 

It's not uncommon for a pot or stat to either get "real loose" or "hard to turn" near the end of its service life. They are electrical components, but still mechanical devices.

 

If there is no electrical current to the switch were would one go about finding the power source to this wire is there a fuse that could be blown or someting else.

 

I have read many threads and this one seems to be close to my problem. I went to replace the blend door. When I removed my acutuator which is under the dash it did not have the tell tale signs of black specs or chips as I pulled it away. So I pluged the actuator into the power connector and nothing. It would not rotate in either direction. I checked fuses and no issues. Any help appreciated.

Larry