I just ordered a a new faucet for the kitchen.

It should arrive by the time I get back. When it does I am going to try and install it myself.

Therefore, if you live within 250 miles of the "four states area" where Kansas, Missouri, Oklahoma, and Arkansas sort of meet, you may want to relocate. I'll give 48 hours notice.

There will be the potential for flooding, or any other disaster when someone who has no idea how to do such things attempts to do such things.

Check you homeowner's insurance policies.

May God be with me, and all of us when I attempt this.

Good night, and good luck.

 

piece of cake man....

 

I agree with Buck.

Let me add, get the flexible connector pipes to run between the new faucet and the old under sink cutoff valves. The new faucet may have the same drop and fit just fine, but have the flexible ones just in case. You can always take them back.

 

What?

DO you mean the hot and cold water lines running from the wall to the faucet?

Here's what it comes with:

http://www.krausproducts.com/pdf/kit...ucets/KPF-1612

(Clears throat) . . . uhmm, yeah, if they ain't long enough I'll go to the hardware store and get the appropriate length.

(Did I sound convincing?)

 

Looks like #16 in the parts diagram is the braided flexible tubing I referenced. Faucets come attached with a long section of copper pipe that goes through the top of the sink and is supposed to fit directly to the hot and cold inlet pipes at the cutoff valve. (Evidently I buy cheap crap that necessitates purchasing those braided extensions that come with your kit.)

You always sound convincing! I just can't decide if you are convincing others or yourself.
We expect a full report at the conclusion of the installation. Be sure to wear your Norge repairman pants.

 

Wait . . . what? I gotta get special pants?

 

I think your #16 parts are what was being talked about. The best kind have a braided stainless steel jacket, but probably anything new is good for 20 years or so.

I suspect the hardest job will be taking your old faucet out of the sink. It's very tight quarters up in there and can be extremely hard to get old hold-down nuts off the pipes. I recently replaced a bathroom faucet in our rental house and it was so old and corroded, I ended up breaking the cold water pipe into the faucet, which allowed me to rotate the whole mess above the sink. Then I bent the old faucet covering back (exposing the innards) and cut the hot water side off with a Dremel tool. (Sorry I don't have pictures). It took about a half hour to install the new faucet after the old one was removed. Several hours to get the old one out.

The old nuts were so corroded on the pipes that they simply would not turn. I used a deep well socket and a three foot breaker bar to break the pipe into the fixture itself. A basin wrench was useless - I ended up bending the "T" handle on mine trying to turn the nut.

Modern faucets have very "civilized" ways of attaching that look to be easy to remove in the future if necessary.

- Jack

 

The kind that show off your "crack". Gotta look professional.

- Jack

 

Part #16 is probably no longer than 6". I've never seen any faucet come with the flex lines from the water supply- what length would they use? You'll probably end up buying the flex lines. I'd suggest paying a little more and get the flood proof versions. If the line breaks they have a valve body at the cut off end of the line to cut the water off- it's like a surge valve. I'd also suggest replacing the water cut offs under the sink while yer at it. A trick shown to me by a plumber is to use oil on the compression ring...assuming you have copper pipes. Another thing I generally do that creates a lot of issues is over tightening everything.

 

A friend has tools designed for just such a job . . . something about a wrench or something, that is on a joint, or bent or something, that fits in a tight space and is designed for faucets, or something.

I have no idea. I'm told not to worry about the needed tools. So I won't.

I just want to try it myself. Hell, I've already painted two rooms, fixed two toilets (that was awesome), and replaced some thing that does something or other.


(I am totally inept at this stuff, but it's interesting to try)

 

Oh. Gotcha. I think I already own those.

 

Yes.....


If you have shut off valves below the sink that haven't been operated in awhile......they have a tendency not to shut off all the way or not to open after being shut......I've even broken some handles/***** off, opening and closing them.........

Not to scare you but just be prepared....

 

You must use the facet wrench (t handle) looks funn y but works well, unless your hands are small like burgerkinghabibi's then use the wrench

 

Thats make me moist,,, ahaaahahaaaaaa

 

Wait? I'm supposed to pay for this stuff? Why should I pay? The way I see it, it if has already been paid for repeatedly by middlemen, I should just take it? Right?

Oops, wait, my bad . . . .that's was PickupMan's way of thinking,not yours.

Never mind.