Getting a new faucet for kitchen.
#16
#18
#21
#23
Originally Posted by kobiashi
May God be with me, and all of us when I attempt this.
You ordered the optional faucet extender, right?
Originally Posted by Labnerd
Part #16 is probably no longer than 6". I've never seen any faucet come with the flex lines from the water supply- what length would they use?
I mean, it's a kitchen faucet! What could go wrong?
#24
#25
If there's the chance of a nuclear explosion resulting from kitchen faucet work, then that will likely happen.
As I said, I'm giving 48 hours notice. Enough for anyone to evacuate and the FAA to divert flights.
#26
Used it too. For a while at least.
That didn't turn out so great.
#27
A friend has tools designed for just such a job . . . something about a wrench or something, that is on a joint, or bent or something, that fits in a tight space and is designed for faucets, or something.
I have no idea. I'm told not to worry about the needed tools. So I won't.
...<snip>...
I have no idea. I'm told not to worry about the needed tools. So I won't.
...<snip>...
No matter. I have every confidence you will succeed.
And, I agree totally with the advice about replacing the supply valves too. Get the kind that are 1/4 turn on/off "ball valves". They are much more "positive" than the older "multi-turn" style.
- Jack
#28
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That's the "basin wrench" I was talking about. Because the nuts were frozen on so tightly, the T-handle simply got bent. I was not kidding when I said I used a deep well socket (1-1/8" as I recall) and a three foot breaker bar, which worked by breaking the brass supply pipe into the faucet assembly. The nut was still frozen on to the part that broke off.
No matter. I have every confidence you will succeed.
And, I agree totally with the advice about replacing the supply valves too. Get the kind that are 1/4 turn on/off "ball valves". They are much more "positive" than the older "multi-turn" style.
- Jack
No matter. I have every confidence you will succeed.
And, I agree totally with the advice about replacing the supply valves too. Get the kind that are 1/4 turn on/off "ball valves". They are much more "positive" than the older "multi-turn" style.
- Jack
#29
Part #16 is probably no longer than 6". I've never seen any faucet come with the flex lines from the water supply- what length would they use? You'll probably end up buying the flex lines. I'd suggest paying a little more and get the flood proof versions. If the line breaks they have a valve body at the cut off end of the line to cut the water off- it's like a surge valve.
I'd also suggest replacing the water cut offs under the sink while yer at it. A trick shown to me by a plumber is to use oil on the compression ring...assuming you have copper pipes. Another thing I generally do that creates a lot of issues is over tightening everything.
#30
.<snip>... Is there a way to tell if they are the "flood proof lines"?
Okay, so, are y'all referring to the oval shaped handles attached to the water lines coming up out of the bottom of the sink? Or to the braided lines that run to the faucet? Or some "ball" mechanism in the faucet or lines? What?
Okay, so, are y'all referring to the oval shaped handles attached to the water lines coming up out of the bottom of the sink? Or to the braided lines that run to the faucet? Or some "ball" mechanism in the faucet or lines? What?
The faucet you are installing has replacements for those lines (part #16). I think you can use the existing lines if you want (especially if they're stainless steel braided) or you can use the lines that come with your faucet. Don't try to use both.
The oval shaped handles are a sign that you have multi-turn valves on your supply. If you have to turn them more than 1/4 turn, that's what they are and I'd replace them if you are doing all the other work anyway. The quarter turn valves have more of a teardrop shaped handle.
- Jack
Last edited by JackandJanet; 12-16-2010 at 02:41 PM.