Getting a new faucet for kitchen.

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Old Dec 15, 2010 | 09:07 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by buckdropper
Thats make me ....,,, ahaaahahaaaaaa
Dude. Not here. THis is a family, home improvement thread. Go do PMs with Habs for that.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2010 | 09:17 PM
  #17  
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From: In the fast lane from LA to Tokyo...
Originally Posted by buckdropper
Thats make me moist,,, ahaaahahaaaaaa
Easy Bucky....!

Kobi could just hire this one and.......
 
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Old Dec 15, 2010 | 09:18 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 88racing
Easy Bucky....!

Kobi could just hire this one and.......
Okay now i'm soping wet......
 
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Old Dec 15, 2010 | 09:35 PM
  #19  
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^ sweet jesus
 
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Old Dec 15, 2010 | 09:42 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by buckdropper
Thats make me moist,,, ahaaahahaaaaaa
oh boy, -I spotted.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2010 | 01:54 AM
  #21  
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Best of luck with your home improvement project Kobi. I'll be watching the news for any reports of mass flooding in the area. Hey my sister lives out that way, try not to flood her house!
 
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Old Dec 16, 2010 | 06:27 AM
  #22  
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Call me if you want - I'll come over and supervise. I've done kitchen faucets before.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2010 | 07:35 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by kobiashi
May God be with me, and all of us when I attempt this.
Surely, if a half wit like me can install a kitchen faucet, a gentleman of your standing should find it a simple task.

You ordered the optional faucet extender, right?

Originally Posted by Labnerd
Part #16 is probably no longer than 6". I've never seen any faucet come with the flex lines from the water supply- what length would they use?
We're seeing more and more faucets with 20" (or so) supplies pre-installed. Kohler uses metal braided supplies on many of their faucets now. Delta has some new DTS (dimond seal technology) system that has a pair of long (36" maybe) PEX supplies attached. I find the Delta to be a poor design, it's really a piece of junk. I believe that manufacturers are doing this to be certified lead free.



I mean, it's a kitchen faucet! What could go wrong?
 
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Old Dec 16, 2010 | 10:20 AM
  #24  
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Oh boy... this oughta be good... Almost as good as when you almost bought a chainsaw. But really, it shouldn't be too bad. Put one of those in at the boss' lake house. Not sure on the brand, but same design and it has a normal faucet too along with the sprayer.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2010 | 11:33 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by wittom
Surely, if a half wit like me can install a kitchen faucet, a gentleman of your standing should find it a simple task.
Dude, I can't hammer a nail in straight . . .

Originally Posted by wittom
I mean, it's a kitchen faucet! What could go wrong?
If there's the chance of a nuclear explosion resulting from kitchen faucet work, then that will likely happen.

As I said, I'm giving 48 hours notice. Enough for anyone to evacuate and the FAA to divert flights.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2010 | 11:35 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Zaairman
Oh boy... this oughta be good... Almost as good as when you almost bought a chainsaw.
Uh, dude, I did buy a chainsaw. The one that Mag suggested I get (from the options available). (How is that dude, by the way?)

Used it too. For a while at least.

That didn't turn out so great.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2010 | 12:31 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by kobiashi
A friend has tools designed for just such a job . . . something about a wrench or something, that is on a joint, or bent or something, that fits in a tight space and is designed for faucets, or something.

I have no idea. I'm told not to worry about the needed tools. So I won't.

...<snip>...
That's the "basin wrench" I was talking about. Because the nuts were frozen on so tightly, the T-handle simply got bent. I was not kidding when I said I used a deep well socket (1-1/8" as I recall) and a three foot breaker bar, which worked by breaking the brass supply pipe into the faucet assembly. The nut was still frozen on to the part that broke off.

No matter. I have every confidence you will succeed.

And, I agree totally with the advice about replacing the supply valves too. Get the kind that are 1/4 turn on/off "ball valves". They are much more "positive" than the older "multi-turn" style.

- Jack
 
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Old Dec 16, 2010 | 01:07 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by JackandJanet
That's the "basin wrench" I was talking about. Because the nuts were frozen on so tightly, the T-handle simply got bent. I was not kidding when I said I used a deep well socket (1-1/8" as I recall) and a three foot breaker bar, which worked by breaking the brass supply pipe into the faucet assembly. The nut was still frozen on to the part that broke off.

No matter. I have every confidence you will succeed.

And, I agree totally with the advice about replacing the supply valves too. Get the kind that are 1/4 turn on/off "ball valves". They are much more "positive" than the older "multi-turn" style.

- Jack
I agree with getting the ball valves also for replacements.....
 
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Old Dec 16, 2010 | 01:51 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Labnerd
Part #16 is probably no longer than 6". I've never seen any faucet come with the flex lines from the water supply- what length would they use? You'll probably end up buying the flex lines. I'd suggest paying a little more and get the flood proof versions. If the line breaks they have a valve body at the cut off end of the line to cut the water off- it's like a surge valve.
I remember there were two braided steel lines coming from the hot and cold water outlets/valves/whatever. They were plenty long (had a lot of slack in them so no matter what length the faucet manufacturer provides, I'm pretty sure these will reach. I bought this place from a husband and wife, both doctors, and they had the place essentially rebuilt in 97 when they bought it. I remember when I looked at the lines under the sink that the labels were still on those braided steel lines (ACE hardware is all I remember, I can call to get the part numbers from those labels if needed). Is there a way to tell if they are the "flood proof lines"?

Originally Posted by Labnerd
I'd also suggest replacing the water cut offs under the sink while yer at it. A trick shown to me by a plumber is to use oil on the compression ring...assuming you have copper pipes. Another thing I generally do that creates a lot of issues is over tightening everything.
Originally Posted by JackandJanet
And, I agree totally with the advice about replacing the supply valves too. Get the kind that are 1/4 turn on/off "ball valves". They are much more "positive" than the older "multi-turn" style.
- Jack
Okay, so, are y'all referring to the oval shaped handles attached to the water lines coming up out of the bottom of the sink? Or to the braided lines that run to the faucet? Or some "ball" mechanism in the faucet or lines? What?
 
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Old Dec 16, 2010 | 02:37 PM
  #30  
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From: Among javelinas and scorpions in Zoniestan
Originally Posted by kobiashi
.<snip>... Is there a way to tell if they are the "flood proof lines"?

Okay, so, are y'all referring to the oval shaped handles attached to the water lines coming up out of the bottom of the sink? Or to the braided lines that run to the faucet? Or some "ball" mechanism in the faucet or lines? What?
I doubt they're the flood proof kind. I think this is a new "feature". If you look for these kind at Home Depot or Lowes, you'll see how they are different. And, I'm not really sure they are made for sink installations? I know they have them for toilets and washing machines though. Basically, they shut off water if a sudden excessive flow is seen.

The faucet you are installing has replacements for those lines (part #16). I think you can use the existing lines if you want (especially if they're stainless steel braided) or you can use the lines that come with your faucet. Don't try to use both.

The oval shaped handles are a sign that you have multi-turn valves on your supply. If you have to turn them more than 1/4 turn, that's what they are and I'd replace them if you are doing all the other work anyway. The quarter turn valves have more of a teardrop shaped handle.

- Jack
 

Last edited by JackandJanet; Dec 16, 2010 at 02:41 PM.
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