The truck has 12 quarts of new Motorcraft LV Transmission Fluid, New Motorcraft Transmission Filter, 75w140 rear end fluid, 6 quarts of Pennzoil Ultra and a MC Filter along with some wiper blades. Still had the original blades on from when the truck was new. Figured i might as well go back with the ford ones since they lasted so long. Cleaned all the map sensor's a few days ago . The ol truck should be happy for a while.

 

But it won't :/

Thanks though

 

Yep, need to do some measuring. This tractor is bigger than most riders, may even be too wide. It's 7 ft long.

 

With all the property you have between Burleson and East Texas, I'm surprised you don't have a trailer.....

I would love to have a medium-sized trailer myself, but would have to rent a spot to store the dang thing so it's just not worth it to me. I have a bunch of old gutter's I'd like to cut up and take over to recycling right now but I don't want to haul them in either of my two trucks since neither are daily drivers and the beds of both still have unblemished factory paint!

It's times like this that I miss my old '97 Ranger......

 

So I started messing with the brakes on the LTD today and am a little confused.

The last time I drove it, I could have sworn one of my calipers was hanging up, since the driver's side front wheel was REALLY hot and giving off a funny smell when I parked it. I jacked it up in front this morning and found that the wheel was now free. I fully expected that once I started the car and applied the brakes, the caliper would probably freeze-up again and I wouldn't be able to spin the wheel. However, after taking it for a 4-5 mile run down the road, the wheel still seems to spin free and I can't replicate the "soft" pedal" I had the last time I limped it home.

Any ideas, guys.....

 

I have a 16' two axle but it is loaded with trees and brush that needs to be hauled off. Plus the floor needs to be replaced. I need to buy a 6x12 single axel to haul the mule and small stuff.

 

I'd recommend a little further drive than 4-5 miles..

 

Contaminated brake fluid (moisture) will boil while driving with engine heat, boiling water expands, applies brakes locally, even to the point of a single wheel doing full lockup while driving if the brakes are strong enough.

Maybe it's a wheel bearing issue, causing the drum/rotor to get hot, then giving you soft pedal due to brake fade with heat



Jus t my .02$

 

^^^^^^
This...

 

Sounds good.....

Hopefully all that service didn't hit you too hard in the pocketbook

 

That sounds like a very plausible scenario given the fact that the brake fluid in the car is 28-year-old factory issue! I'll flush the system and then take it on a good 25-30 mile run to see if I can recreate the performance issue.....

 

His pocket book won't even notice it.

 

Got an owie on my finger....



And on my arm....

 

The first one happened while trying to remove a spring perch....the drive chisel slipped and so did my finger onto the top of the drive head while the hammer was coming down....

The second one happened while fabbing a bracket asking too much of a cut off saw....the metal bound then got richocheted off the back guard into my arm

 

88 -- your career as a hand model is officially over.....

The worst thing I usually get with my job is slivers from handling sheets of OSB -- but those little buggers hurt! Of course, I could always fall off a roof if I'm not careful -- hope I didn't just jinx myself.....