Help! Chimney Leak

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #16  
Old 02-15-2008, 02:53 PM
buckdropper's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: south western NYS Latitude: 42.34 N, Longitude: 78.46 W
Posts: 918
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by bluejay432000
I am 99% sure it has to be in the bricks or/ and the mortar. Could still be the cap, but water testing has pretty well eliminated the roof and the base of the chimney. Buck, you say a clear sealer, you mean like Thompson's Deck Sealer?

Yes sir but for concrete, its a clear sealer and you can spray it on or brush it on.
 
  #17  
Old 02-15-2008, 02:54 PM
Bluejay's Avatar
Global Moderator &
Senior Member

Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Burleson/Athens/Brownsboro, TX
Posts: 26,016
Received 68 Likes on 64 Posts
Originally Posted by buckdropper
Yes sir but for concrete, its a clear sealer and you can spray it on or brush it on.
Ok, thanks. That may be an answer. Sure would hate to do the retucking.
 
__________________
Jim
  #18  
Old 02-15-2008, 02:58 PM
buckdropper's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: south western NYS Latitude: 42.34 N, Longitude: 78.46 W
Posts: 918
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
here you are good luck.

DESCRIPTION
DECO 30 Penetrating Brick and Stucco Sealer is a clear formulated sealer designed for the demanding
environmental requirements for waterproofing and preserving brick and stucco. DECO 30 has no solvents
and 0% VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds). It eliminates the use of all solvent based products.
USE WARRANTY
Provides maximum performance for waterproofing
and preserving exposed brick, mortar and stucco.
DECO 30 is warranted to perform as specified
for 3 years from date of application.
0% VOC
Non-toxic Non-caustic Non-flammable
Harmless to humans, plants and animals
Worker safety
Reduces spalling of mortar joints
Reduces efflorescence
Non - slippery
Reduces water transmission
Reduces bacteria growth and mildew
Cost effective
Clear liquid, non - yellowing
Dries in two hours or less
Only one application required
Air or airless sprayer applied
No mixing required
5 gallon packaging
No maintenance required
Can be painted or coated over
B E N E F I T S
T E C H N I C A L D A T A
DECO 30
BRICK And STUCCO SEALER
“NEW OR EXISTING CONSTRUCTION”
 
  #19  
Old 02-15-2008, 02:59 PM
Bluejay's Avatar
Global Moderator &
Senior Member

Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Burleson/Athens/Brownsboro, TX
Posts: 26,016
Received 68 Likes on 64 Posts
Originally Posted by buckdropper
DESCRIPTION
DECO 30 Penetrating Brick and Stucco Sealer is a clear formulated sealer designed for the demanding
environmental requirements for waterproofing and preserving brick and stucco. DECO 30 has no solvents
and 0% VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds). It eliminates the use of all solvent based products.
USE WARRANTY
Provides maximum performance for waterproofing
and preserving exposed brick, mortar and stucco.
DECO 30 is warranted to perform as specified
for 3 years from date of application.
0% VOC
Non-toxic Non-caustic Non-flammable
Harmless to humans, plants and animals
Worker safety
Reduces spalling of mortar joints
Reduces efflorescence
Non - slippery
Reduces water transmission
Reduces bacteria growth and mildew
Cost effective
Clear liquid, non - yellowing
Dries in two hours or less
Only one application required
Air or airless sprayer applied
No mixing required
5 gallon packaging
No maintenance required
Can be painted or coated over
B E N E F I T S
T E C H N I C A L D A T A
DECO 30
BRICK And STUCCO SEALER
“NEW OR EXISTING CONSTRUCTION”
Thanks a lot! That sounds like something to try!
 
__________________
Jim
  #20  
Old 02-15-2008, 05:26 PM
Ftruck05's Avatar
Suspended
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Algonquin Il
Posts: 1,200
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
On a house that is 21 years old I dont think you should have to tuckpoint the chimney. I have been doing masonry for a while and have seen alot of hack jobs. The first question is do you have a tin cap on top of the chimney/flu pipe? I know you said the cap was repoured, did they check out the condition of the flu pipes and damper??? Most likely you have a couple of cracked mortar joints that need some pointing, you dont have to do everything just the bad joints. Do you have an attic, can you crawl up there and check it out?
 
  #21  
Old 02-15-2008, 05:43 PM
Bluejay's Avatar
Global Moderator &
Senior Member

Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Burleson/Athens/Brownsboro, TX
Posts: 26,016
Received 68 Likes on 64 Posts
Originally Posted by Ftruck05
On a house that is 21 years old I dont think you should have to tuckpoint the chimney. I have been doing masonry for a while and have seen alot of hack jobs. The first question is do you have a tin cap on top of the chimney/flu pipe? I know you said the cap was repoured, did they check out the condition of the flu pipes and damper??? Most likely you have a couple of cracked mortar joints that need some pointing, you dont have to do everything just the bad joints. Do you have an attic, can you crawl up there and check it out?
There is an attic, it's two story though and there is no way I can get in there. Has to be a small guy to get there. There is a tin cap over the flue. Pipes and damper are good. The drip occurs not in the fire place but immeddiately in front of it. lands on the ceiling about 2" in front of the chimney.
 
__________________
Jim
  #22  
Old 02-15-2008, 06:06 PM
Ftruck05's Avatar
Suspended
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Algonquin Il
Posts: 1,200
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by bluejay432000
There is an attic, it's two story though and there is no way I can get in there. Has to be a small guy to get there. There is a tin cap over the flue. Pipes and damper are good. The drip occurs not in the fire place but immeddiately in front of it. lands on the ceiling about 2" in front of the chimney.

This is interesting. Another question, does the brick have holes and does the chimney have any rowlock or soldier courses? A rowlock would be a course of brick laid with the end or head sticking out and the soldier is a course where the brick is standing up. If so did they cut 45's on the corners or did they leave the holes exposed?
 
  #23  
Old 02-15-2008, 08:45 PM
Bluejay's Avatar
Global Moderator &
Senior Member

Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Burleson/Athens/Brownsboro, TX
Posts: 26,016
Received 68 Likes on 64 Posts
Originally Posted by Ftruck05
This is interesting. Another question, does the brick have holes and does the chimney have any rowlock or soldier courses? A rowlock would be a course of brick laid with the end or head sticking out and the soldier is a course where the brick is standing up. If so did they cut 45's on the corners or did they leave the holes exposed?
No holes showing but there is something fancy done at the top where the top two ar three rows stick out farther. I will have to check that tomorrow, the ends my stick out. Here is the only pic of the chimney I could find, can't tell much about it.


The brick is called Chicago.
 

Last edited by Bluejay; 02-16-2008 at 11:45 AM.
  #24  
Old 02-15-2008, 08:46 PM
Bluejay's Avatar
Global Moderator &
Senior Member

Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Burleson/Athens/Brownsboro, TX
Posts: 26,016
Received 68 Likes on 64 Posts
delete
 



Quick Reply: Help! Chimney Leak



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:31 AM.