I got my radiator in today, hopefully the E-Fan is coming in tomorrow.

 

Actually, it sounds just right to me.

Your 225 hp was on the old 'gross' rating system. Everyone uses 'net' hp now. With the gross system, all the estimated parasitic and friction losses (such as what it takes to run your water pump, alternator, compress your valve springs, etc...) were added back in to the measured horsepower. I used to have the exact differential from the old Ford books memorized, but I can't recall the exact difference between gross and net on the 289. I think it was 50 - 55 hp. It was more on the larger engines.

So using the modern 'net' hp system, your brand new 289 4 barrel was putting out about 170 - 175 hp at the flywheel, and considerably less (maybe 120 - 135) at the rearwheels with an automatic. Thumpers 156 at the wheels is right on for an old nearly stock 302.

 

Alright, now I don't feel so bad. Justin at VMP Tuning was saying hes only seen them at max of 170 rwhp stock. I know its running a little rich, the valve seals are leaking, so I guess its not too bad.

 

The honest truth is stock small block 260-289-302 mustangs are not strong runners and were not really ever considered muscle cars. They need some help to wake them up, and with a stock cam they are just never going to move that well.

Even the 289 hi-po was only a low to mid 15 second car stone stock, and the hydraulic cammed 4 barrels are down almost 50 hp from that.

It wasn't until the Boss 302 and the '69 Mach 1 with a 351W that there was a reasonably quick non-Shelby small block stang.

 

MAN! your only 18 and have a bada$$ truck and that sweeeeeeeeeet car I need to do what you do for a living

 

An aggressive, but streetable (with a 4 speed) hydraulic cam will add about 40 preak rwhp on that car, without hurting low end power at all. That's a difference you can really feel. A high revving race type cam could gain approximately 60 hp over the stock bumpstick.

Replacing the heads would gain another 20 - 30 hp, depending on the heads and what your compression ratio ends up being.

The exhaust improvements might add another 15.

So with just a cam (and new lifters of course) and the headers/exhaust, you are looking at 55+ hp increase to 210 rwhp on a budget, assuming your valve train is up to the task. And your motor's bottom end, tranny, rear end and clutch should be able to take it without major upgrades.

To take it up to or over 250 rwhp you are looking at much more additional expense (crank, rods, pistons, heads, full rebuild etc...) and your old clutch, tranny and rear end get questionable especially if you are driving it hard.

 

What cam would you go with?

 

I don't have a specific recommendation as far as manufacturer, lift and cam duration.

So much depends on how high you want it to rev/make power.

I would say if a maker has 5 hydraulic cams available, with #1 being barely an upgrade over stock and 5 being a race cam or recommended for manual transmissions only, you probably want #4 (the 2nd most agressive hydraulic they offer).

I would say you want a cam that is discouraged (but not totally incompatible) from automatic transmission use on the street but will make max power around 5,500 rpm.

If you can find the duration specs for Ford's LeMans solid lifter cam, get something a little milder. Keep in mind if you go with 331, you can get way with a more aggressive cam (the extra displacment will need it and the extra cubes will give you low end power).

 

I actually just found this, what do you think about something like this? I might just keep it a 302, do a little work to this, and buy a piece to use for strictly drag racing so I don't mess this one up too bad.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku

 

I think Summit has good prices and I like the idea of a kit where all the parts are engineered to work together.

Also, the valves are not way oversized, and that is actually a plus for a street driver with standard pistons (you don't want a valve to hit a pistion with you new high lift cam).

The quoted power #'s are pretty high, and I am skeptical of them. They don't indicate what compression ratio they are running, and they may have only got those power #'s with higher comp pistons.

I don't know what combustion chamber volume, you have, so you may lose some compression ratio with those heads. Comp ratio makes a big difference on power.

I would want more info from Edelbrock on the cam specs and if they offer similar packages with other cams that might be better for you application. Basiclaly, I would call Edelbrock and talk to someone knowledgeable before I ordered.

 

No doubt about calling before ordering, I don't have that kind of cash to dump into it right now anyways. Also I don't believe the HP numbers either. I'm thinking more around 250rwhp, depending on the other pieces of the motor.

 

LMAO!

I'll just steal it, why pay you!?

 

What was i thinking, you're an internet friend, why would i even think of tryin to make a few bucks off of something you could be making business off of. I must be stupid!

 

Alright so I got the E-Fan in but I'm not quite sure its going to fit. We'll see.

 

Let's keep it 'generally' on topic... okay? Several posts removed per the OP's request.