Need SERIOUS HELP with my refrigerator, PLEASE
My refrigerator has stopped cooling completely. I know for a fact that the evaporator/condensor fan is not working. I am afraid that this might have caused my compressor to overheat and fail. Does anyone know how to test a refrigerator compressor to see if it works? I don't mind replacing the fan ($40-$60), but the compressor is around $200 and lots of hand labor in a tight area. If I have to spend 40-60 I will but at $250+ I will go buy a new one. The refrigerator in quesiton is a Maytag Performa. I'm hoping there are some Appliance Repair guys on here or someone who can point me in the right direction. Please help, my groceries are on ice right this minute.
Originally Posted by cskrmetti
My refrigerator has stopped cooling completely. I know for a fact that the evaporator/condensor fan is not working. I am afraid that this might have caused my compressor to overheat and fail. Does anyone know how to test a refrigerator compressor to see if it works? I don't mind replacing the fan ($40-$60), but the compressor is around $200 and lots of hand labor in a tight area. If I have to spend 40-60 I will but at $250+ I will go buy a new one. The refrigerator in quesiton is a Maytag Performa. I'm hoping there are some Appliance Repair guys on here or someone who can point me in the right direction. Please help, my groceries are on ice right this minute.
Forgot about the comp. test.
If you have a voltmeter, check for voltage at the comp. connector. If you have voltage, and it's NOT scorching hot, and NOT running, it's dead. If it's incredibly hot and voltage is present, let it cool and try it again.
If you have a manifold set, hook it up and check for low/high pressure readings. (Some systems don't have any service fittings installed at all)
SL
If you have a voltmeter, check for voltage at the comp. connector. If you have voltage, and it's NOT scorching hot, and NOT running, it's dead. If it's incredibly hot and voltage is present, let it cool and try it again.
If you have a manifold set, hook it up and check for low/high pressure readings. (Some systems don't have any service fittings installed at all)
SL
Originally Posted by cskrmetti
...Maytag Performa...
Yeah I just found out that the Performa Series are made in Mexico and are not really the same as other Maytags. I know that the compressor is getting power, I can hear it humming and it was getting warm until I unplugged the fridge. The fan motor died for some reason. When the fridge was plugged in the fan would not rotate. If I started the fan by hand, it would rotate very slowly for a minute before coming to a halt. The fan is not completely siezed up, but it definately is not working right. The fan costs $70 with shipping so I think it might be worth a try, rather than dropping $700+ on a new fridge.
Yes it is an EVAP fan not a condensor fan
Yes it is an EVAP fan not a condensor fan
Last edited by cskrmetti; Oct 21, 2006 at 12:55 PM.
Update.....
I manually turned the fan for a while and now it spins freely. I will still likely replace it because it will surely not hold up. So that works for now.
I tested the compressor for continuity, the start, run, and common all have continuity with each other. I tried to test the overload capacitor and got an OL reading. I also tried to test the relay and only got a continuity reading from two of the three. It seems that the run and start have a continuity of around 8-9 ohms whereas both came back with an Open Loop reading when tested against the common.
With that being said, a good reading from my compressor indicates that it is still good (I think). Apparently the relay and the overload capacitor need to be replaced.
Anyone care to chime in here. By the way, if it sounds like I know what I am talking about, don't worry. I have no idea.
I manually turned the fan for a while and now it spins freely. I will still likely replace it because it will surely not hold up. So that works for now.
I tested the compressor for continuity, the start, run, and common all have continuity with each other. I tried to test the overload capacitor and got an OL reading. I also tried to test the relay and only got a continuity reading from two of the three. It seems that the run and start have a continuity of around 8-9 ohms whereas both came back with an Open Loop reading when tested against the common.
With that being said, a good reading from my compressor indicates that it is still good (I think). Apparently the relay and the overload capacitor need to be replaced.
Anyone care to chime in here. By the way, if it sounds like I know what I am talking about, don't worry. I have no idea.
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Sounds like the bushings or brushes in the fan motor.....
Depending on the casing..... this can be created if the motor casing screws have loosened...... that would be a free fix if that is the case. but you have to dissassemble to realign the brushes......
For less than $70.... I'd see if an electronics store could rebuild the motor for it.....
Depending on the casing..... this can be created if the motor casing screws have loosened...... that would be a free fix if that is the case. but you have to dissassemble to realign the brushes......
For less than $70.... I'd see if an electronics store could rebuild the motor for it.....


