Been looking at Dodges as well but I think my blood is too blue to cross the fence.

 

I'm with you, that was my last option (dodge) but I'm pretty sure I will end geting a ford.

 

ya don't go dodge, please i remeber my friend asking me why don't i drive a dodge "they are the best and most powerful" i turned to him and said, ya too bad they stopped making that SRT-10 that you wanted

 

I'm pretty sure the GCWR of 33,000 for the F450/550 is only an add on package. We could have ordered our 07s for that package (and we probably should have), but the standard is 26k. The F350 dually after 05 is 19k. The reason we didn't register our new F550 at 33k was that would require a Class A CDL in order to drive it since we pull trailers with the trucks. Anything 26,001 lbs and higher that pulls a trailer requires a Class A CDL. 26k and down we can get by with only a med card. I think we should have just owned up and finally forced everyone to get their CDL like we're supposed to have anyways. With the 35 and 40 ft draper heads we pull now puts us way over 26k gross. A year ago I scaled at the TX/LA border at a little over 27k which suprised me. This was a 99 F550 4x4 extended chasis service truck with a fiberglass body pulling a Case IH 36 flex draper on a custom built Mustang triaxle high speed trailer. A 12 row corn head or a 39' rigid draper would put us higher.


Anyhow, back to the subject. Your 99-04 F350 DRW with 4.10 gears should have a GCWR of around 17,500 or so if I remember correctly. It'll be less if its got 3.73 gears or if its a SRW.


As for things to look at, bring a set of coolant test strips to check the SCA level in the coolant. If its too low it wasn't maintained, if its real high then they either continually over filled it, or quick dumped some in which most likely means prior neglect. If the SCA levels aren't maintained then the coolant eats away at the block. After that check the oil and coolant for any signs of mixing. Check the oil pan very carefully for rust. They like to rust out and its a $1000 job to change it since the engine has to come out. Also check the diff covers for rust as well, my rear one just rusted out. Pull the air filter and check its condition. Also look down the intake tube for any signs of dirt. Pull the intake line off the turbo and check the fins. Make sure they don't look sand blasted or have the leading edges rounded off. Also check for any runout in the fins. It should spin freely. A little end play is ok, but it should not be excessive. Other than that its the normal ball joint, ujoint, wheel bearing, etc check outs. More than likely you'll need to pull the calipers off after you get it and regrease the slide pins. This has to be done on a regular basis or they freeze up and it won't stop very well.


One last thing I almost forgot about is find out if its ever had a chip on it. If it has find out EXACTLY what chip it had. The 01-03 7.3L trucks had PMRs (powdered metal rods) and these did not respond very well to badly written chips. If it had an older chip like the old TS chips with the Fuel7 program, or an old Western Diesel chip DO NOT BUY THE TRUCK. Those were known for wiping out motors with forged rods, PMRs even worse. Also make sure it has never run nitrous, water/meth, or propane. PMRs really hate those as well if you're not super careful. Basically try and make sure its was a bone stock truck all its life and you'll be in much better shape. If it did have a chip and was a newer chip from a good company then I wouldn't worry too much. PSD code writing has come a long ways from about 5-6 years ago.

 

Wow, thanks for all this info. If I see something in a nearby dealer I will have to take the truck to my house to check everything you mention. I know I can do it because last mont I test drove a F150 and took it home. If is another dealer that is not close enought I guess I will need to go somewere else to check everything so I don't feel the presure from the sales person.

I've seen a few at autotrader but for a 2002 they are asking around 26 to 28k and kbb has the value way less than that. I know dealer ask more so they have space for negotiation but I guess they won't go lower enought I guess for a fair price.

I guess I might be able to get a nice deal this days because of the gas prices been so hight. Their sales reports shouldn't be good this days.

Powerstokr thanks a lot for all the inspection points. I will print this to have it available when buying the truck.

 

I see some of my handiwork staring back at me.

That engine compartment is missing a part or two though..

The 6.7L's are actually a bored and stroked 5.9 with a new turbo design.

 

Hmmm? I took that pic at the PA farm show last fall.

Adrianspeeder

 

That's what it is then.

That's a pre-production truck.

 

I have a late 99 350 drw with 4.10s It is a great truck, but the post about rust is right on the money!! Mine is rusting out all over even though it has been babied. I would never promote dodge, but mine gets 14mpg and my brother's 05 dodge dually gets 23mpg.

I never cared to look under it, but my bro claims that he opted for an Allison when he ordered the truck!! I didn't think it was an option on dodge, but if he was right then it would be a great combo.

Also, both trucks have Dana diffs, so no problem there. Really, though could you live with yourself driving a DODGE!!!