I'll try to post the pic. My header is in alignment with the head, however, the bolt passages between the header and the cat pipe collector are off by about 30 degrees. This is just the passenger side. Is this right? I'd think not, but I've never done these before. If they are fubar, I hope I can send them back. Unfortunatley, they've been scratched up trying to fit them in. Kinda like trying to fit a watermelon up a......nevermind. HELP!!!!

https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?gnum=1283

 

i always thought the flange was free, are you sure it is not just rusted on in that position,soak it with rustbuster or wd and wait a couple of hours and GENTLY tap on either side of the flange

 

Yup!! That's exactly what was wrong. It was rusted so well, I thought it was all one piece. I'm an idiot, sorry....LOL. I got at least one on before it got dark. Guess I'll get the other one tomorrow. Thanks!

 

hey,when you start again in the morning ,go back over what you did so that your sure you didnt make a mistake. did you put anti sieze on the egr tube,did you tighten down the bolts in a criss crossing pattern taking three rounds to tighten to specs(very important).are you taking out the inner skirt of the wheel well before you start,it helps alot. good luck and be patient,its worth it

 

Well....I haven't dealt with the drivers side. Yes I pulled the skirt, used anti-seeze goop on the bolts, ummm...didn't find anything on torquing bolts. My Haynes manual said to start at the back and work forward alternating between top and bottom, I did that. I did my best to torque in three steps, but I was not able to fit a torque wrench. I got them as tight as I dared....I have a tendency to break bolts, threads, studs, whatever. If you have the torque specs and know how I can get the proper wrench on the headers, let me know. I've done headers on my Mustang much the same way with no problems, so I'm not too worried. Thanks for the support, much appreciated.

 

1). 17 to 20 inch pounds.2). be a conturtionist (sic)haha a long extension with a flex at the socket helps and getting in close from above and below helps. p.s. i dont think the anti sieze on the bolts is what you want,lock tight in the medium strength will keep ,em from backing out and leaking plus start up when you,ve got em on but before you put the rest back on and let it warm up then cool, down a couple hours and retorgue (whew its late my spellings way off ) good luck p.s. i also think you may have to undo the motor mount on the drivers side to roll the engine over slightly to get the drivers side in,it,s been five years since i did mine and i try not to voleenter to help on big projects, so my memory may be hazy

 

so how did that other side go in today stang?

 

LOL....what other side? LOL. Ahhhhh....spent the morning trying to fit the header in. Started trying to undo the forward drive shaft, wouldn't budge. So I ran out to Home Depot and Sears and bought myself a compressor and IR impact gun. I ran the compressor for an hour to break in the motor, then was late for dinner at my friends house. By the time I got back I had to start packing my crap up to go to Michigan in the morning. So.....next weekend...I'll have it done. LOL. Thanks for asking though.

 

Hey TexforD!

Got it done today finally. I used the impact gun and got the drive shaft off in a flash. Getting all the bolts from header to head SUCKED. I have to just put the EGR tube and dipstick back on the block.

 

all right!! it,s a good thing we don,t have to change those out all the time(i love my job, i love my job).whats next?. i,ve got a problem with mine ,i,m working on. check my post in engine maybe you got a idea