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Louder exhaust on my 5.4

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Old Jan 2, 2015 | 06:09 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by thelariat02
I don't know the part number. But if you do a search on this forum you should be able to find it.

I went to a local exhaust shop to see what they would think to make my truck louder and they told me pretty much not a lot I could do because the four cats as you guys said and would recommend have just one on each side instead of two. I guess my buddies truck sounds somewhat better is because he only has two cats. Bad part is they would want 500 for each side to put new ones in. Are they hard to do? I'm 100% my dad would know how so I wouldn't have to spend a grand. Let me know!
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Old Jan 2, 2015 | 06:35 PM
  #17  
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Wow that's a lot. Check some where else.. If you can weld you should be able to install high flows.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2015 | 05:38 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by FX4man13
I see. The rasp i don't really care for. I mean the super 10 does the pop when i rev the engine if thats what your saying. But if i run two high flows coming into a Y pipe will iget that rumble i am looking for? I mean you seem to know whats the best according to tone. I just hope it isn't quieter than the super 10.
I got pretty good with creating tone over the years. TheLariat02 is correct, the chambered muffler pop sound will only increase. The only way I would suggest to minimize that and help keep the heavy thumping tone is to run a single 3" midpipe. Ultimately, you won't get a better clear, solid, heavy tone, from any chambered muffler in comparison to a direct flow muffler. If you can get somebody to do the hi-flow cats I would start with that. You can always change them muffler later for different tone, but those 4 OEM cats are holding back all of your thunder.

Originally Posted by FX4man13
Is there a part number for the high flows? I just want to get the correct one since I'm finding a lot of cats very similar to OEM. I might just stick with the high flows for now see how i like it and if not ill then have to consider either some dynomax bullets or the borla
The hi-flow cats folks prefer to go with are the #94106 ( without O2 sensor mount ) and #94136 ( with O2 sensor mount ). Determination for what you need is simple, if your rear cats have the sensors in them ( LEV Cali emissions truck ) it needs the 94136s. If the sensors are immediately after the rear cats, then you want the 94106s.

A CEL is a possibility as these converters don't have as durable of a catalyst as OEM heavy metal types, but they will perform good and sound loud. Just make sure your truck never runs very rich. With treating the CEL, you can do the Gotts O2 mod to foul the reading, or custom tuning can deactivate rear O2 monitoring ( Harmless for performance, they are just tattle tails for emissions ).

Summit Racing offers great service and fast shipping ( free on orders over $100.00 ) and price match anyone if you find them cheaper. I'm not affiliated with them, I just deal with them the most for that reason.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 01:20 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by DarrenWS6
I got pretty good with creating tone over the years. TheLariat02 is correct, the chambered muffler pop sound will only increase. The only way I would suggest to minimize that and help keep the heavy thumping tone is to run a single 3" midpipe. Ultimately, you won't get a better clear, solid, heavy tone, from any chambered muffler in comparison to a direct flow muffler. If you can get somebody to do the hi-flow cats I would start with that. You can always change them muffler later for different tone, but those 4 OEM cats are holding back all of your thunder.



The hi-flow cats folks prefer to go with are the #94106 ( without O2 sensor mount ) and #94136 ( with O2 sensor mount ). Determination for what you need is simple, if your rear cats have the sensors in them ( LEV Cali emissions truck ) it needs the 94136s. If the sensors are immediately after the rear cats, then you want the 94106s.

A CEL is a possibility as these converters don't have as durable of a catalyst as OEM heavy metal types, but they will perform good and sound loud. Just make sure your truck never runs very rich. With treating the CEL, you can do the Gotts O2 mod to foul the reading, or custom tuning can deactivate rear O2 monitoring ( Harmless for performance, they are just tattle tails for emissions ).

Summit Racing offers great service and fast shipping ( free on orders over $100.00 ) and price match anyone if you find them cheaper. I'm not affiliated with them, I just deal with them the most for that reason.
Ill have to take a look, I've heard of people speak of the gotts mod but i don't truly know what is it. Could you explain? I got a custom exhaust shop to put the cats in for 400. A lot cheaper than a grand but ill probably have it done in the spring. Once the high flows are in will it actually result in a better louder tone? More flow getting through would make it seem to be louder to me but you seem to have experienced it a lot. Would i be happy with the end product?
 
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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 01:59 PM
  #20  
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https://www.f150online.com/forums/ex...-mod-pics.html
Gotts O2 mod ^

And yes it will be louder. How much? I can't say exactly but should be pretty good.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 02:59 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by thelariat02
https://www.f150online.com/forums/ex...-mod-pics.html
Gotts O2 mod ^

And yes it will be louder. How much? I can't say exactly but should be pretty good.
Seems pretty straight forward. But of what I'm reading is it basically a 50/50 chance ill throw a code with the new cats? I mean it wouldn't be a big deal if the engine light comes up but eventually ill get irritated seeing it everyday. Thanks for all the info by the way really appreciate it! All the other forums are a bunch of guys making dumb jokes and are no help. Thanks again.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 03:12 PM
  #22  
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No problem. Always here to help. Ya you may or may not get a cel. Don't buy the non foulers till you actually get a cel.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 03:18 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by thelariat02
No problem. Always here to help. Ya you may or may not get a cel. Don't buy the non foulers till you actually get a cel.
Yeah thats what i figured if do after the install. Also have one more question for you, i have a leveling kit in my truck and I've replaced my cv boots three times already, just replaced the whole cv axle instead since i had warranty on them from NAPA. I have the truck sitting pretty much or almost leveled but the tires rub here and there. Is there a cv shaft out there with heavy duty boots made for the level so the boots don't rub together? I would crank my bars a little more to get rid of the tire rub but replacing cv shafts every 2 months isn't fun either..
 
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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 03:40 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by FX4man13

Yeah thats what i figured if do after the install. Also have one more question for you, i have a leveling kit in my truck and I've replaced my cv boots three times already, just replaced the whole cv axle instead since i had warranty on them from NAPA. I have the truck sitting pretty much or almost leveled but the tires rub here and there. Is there a cv shaft out there with heavy duty boots made for the level so the boots don't rub together? I would crank my bars a little more to get rid of the tire rub but replacing cv shafts every 2 months isn't fun either..
How high did you go? Anything over 2.5" from stock height will destroy your CVs and ball joints very fast. Aftermarket keys are pointless and allow you to go way to high..
Also I remember reading aftermarket CVs are actually at a different angles then stock thus making it worse for a leveled vehicle. Try to stick with motorcraft even if you have to get refurbished.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 03:48 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by thelariat02
How high did you go? Anything over 2.5" from stock height will destroy your CVs and ball joints very fast. Aftermarket keys are pointless and allow you to go way to high..
Also I remember reading aftermarket CVs are actually at a different angles then stock thus making it worse for a leveled vehicle. Try to stick with motorcraft even if you have to get refurbished.
At first i was a good inch and half higher than the back but it looked completely level then. But currently i have it only a half inch higher than the back and it seems fine just tires rub occasionally. All in and all i wish i just bought the full suspension lift.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 04:01 PM
  #26  
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Here are a couple old videos from my first truck, back in 2008. Wow, those are ancient videos for my channel!

Before removing rear cats:

After removal:

I would say a 15% - 20% sound increase.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 04:26 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by FX4man13

At first i was a good inch and half higher than the back but it looked completely level then. But currently i have it only a half inch higher than the back and it seems fine just tires rub occasionally. All in and all i wish i just bought the full suspension lift.
Ya you WAY over cranked them. Bring them even further down. Get it so the front is at the same height as the back. Then you should be done having problems.. Also don't forget to get an alignment.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 04:33 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by thelariat02
Ya you WAY over cranked them. Bring them even further down. Get it so the front is at the same height as the back. Then you should be done having problems.. Also don't forget to get an alignment.
Trust me i know..learned the hard way. I havnt had problems since i lowered them, the alignment has been done as well.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 04:34 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by DarrenWS6
Here are a couple old videos from my first truck, back in 2008. Wow, those are ancient videos for my channel!

Before removing rear cats: http://youtu.be/hA4b28XFLH4

After removal: http://youtu.be/f4ptCHa5m4U

I would say a 15% - 20% sound increase.
Oh yeah deffinetly made a difference!
 
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Old Jan 11, 2015 | 06:51 PM
  #30  
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i have a thrush welded, no cats si/do and plenty loud
 
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