Headers?
Headers?
Im running a 08 F150 XLT supercrew 4x4 with the 5.4l flex fuel.
all i have for performence right now is a flowmaster exhaust. Im 99% sure im putting an Edge CS evolution programer and a Volant intake on her. Im just wondering bout how much of a difference headers would make and what kind.
Should i stick with Flowmaster or is there better, cheaper performance options?
also any pros or con to a Volant intake system?
all i have for performence right now is a flowmaster exhaust. Im 99% sure im putting an Edge CS evolution programer and a Volant intake on her. Im just wondering bout how much of a difference headers would make and what kind.
Should i stick with Flowmaster or is there better, cheaper performance options?
also any pros or con to a Volant intake system?
Most here prefer Magnaflow and Borla over Flowmaster. Most Flowmasters aren't really any better than stock flow wise. They are just louder. Most don't go with air intake and just do the Gott's mod. There are instructions on here for it. You would be better off getting something that will allow you to get custom tunes. Canned tunes won't benefit you anywhere near as much. Headers, many seem to like the OBX longtubes along with magnaflow cats. Only thing cheaper than most Flowmasters, are glass packs most likely. I personally cannot wait to get rid of mine and get a Borla turbo XL.
You'll need a custom tune to account for the volant intake......as far as the headers go a custom tune will help that mod out too.....
Your edge cs canned tunes won't be of any help.....might as well sell it and go with sct device and contact mike@5star or go with a diablo....
Your edge cs canned tunes won't be of any help.....might as well sell it and go with sct device and contact mike@5star or go with a diablo....
broaderperformance.com/muffler_flow_tests.htm (Independently tested cfm flows of the more popular mufflers, glasspacks and resonators @ 15” wc:
2 ½” diameter straight pipe 521
2 ¼” diameter straight pipe 365
2” diameter straight pipe 283
2 ¼” diameter tailpipe 268
2 ¼” round glasspack- no louvers 274
2 ¼” round glasspack- with inward punched louvers 133
2 ¼” round glasspack- inward punched louvers/installed backwards 141
2 ½” inlet/outlet Dynomax SuperTurbo 268
2 1/4” inlet/outlet Thrush CVX 260
2 ½” inlet/outlet Flowmaster 2-chamber 249
2 ¼” inlet/2 ½”outlet Cherry Bomb turbo 249
2 ¼” inlet/outlet Flowmaster 3-chamber 229
2 ¼” inlet/2 ½”outlet Maremount Super C (OEM Replacement) 149
2 ¼” inlet/2” dual outlet Maremount 183
2 ¼” inlet/outlet California Turbo 229
2 ½” inlet/outlet Hooker Aerochamber 324
2 ½” inlet/outlet Hooker MaxFlow 521
2 ¼” inlet/outlet Maremount Cherrybomb Vortex 298
2 ½” inlet center/outlet offset Borla Turbo 373
I have listed here a muffler shootout test done by CAR CRAFT:
DynoMax Race Magnum 528.64 cfm
Thrush Magnum Glasspack 507.40 cfm
Summit Fully Welded 343.38 cfm
Flowtech Afterburner 342.20 cfm
DynoMax Super Turbo 333.94 cfm
Hooker Competition 232.46 cfm
Hooker Super Competition 320.96 cfm
Summit Turbo 331.16 cfm
Thrush Boss Turbo 297.36 cfm
While there are mufflers that will out flow a glass pack design, it also depends on the design. Does the glasspack use "louvers or perforations" - Louvers reduce the flow by as much as 50% but Allied resonators (that sell for $20-$40) each and available at any muffler shop) in independent test flowed 90%+ of a "race spec muffler". Others using other brands consistently showed similar results.
With regards to the CAI......
Testand Corporation conducted an ISO standards test on automotive air filters which can be viewed at this link: http://www.dieselbombers.com/chevrol...ting.html...in summary, it is all BS as far as performance gains. What many view as an issue (is the plastic intake tube with its noise canceling design) actually increases air pressure. It is the same hydraulic concept used by fire fighters creating water supply where psi is low. By having the air cross the path at a 90 degree angle, the pressure is increased proportionally. Fire fighters use what is called a “4-way valve” or “Blake Valve” at the hydrant where the water is cycled through the fire engine (pump) and sent back into the valve crossing the water flow at a 90 degree angle. In this case it also acts as a sound canceling device! At low speeds, this can reduce the flow a tad (which is what most “feel”), but in terms of peak hp/tq, a good high flow filter is all that is needed.
With regards to "Tuners"- . It was (and still is) very important that a person verifies that the “Tuner” is ASE certified in both ECM and Transmission programming and IMHO be have current certification by the OEM whose vehicle you want to modify. There are plenty of persons who advertise their programs to be the best and even offer custom tunes, but in all reality, very few actually have credentials in these areas- but that’s not to say that some of these “geniuses” haven’t really caused damage to a few vehicles- just jump over to flatratetech.com and read just some of the comments from the MSE techs!. Perhaps what is equally important is the parameters that can be adjusted are set by the OEM vehicle software…so there is really no “magic” in what they are doing anyway. The only reason for the “custom” program to support the CAI is because the design is poor resulting in false readings from the air intake sensors, etc….period! If you look at the dyno charts from many of these supposed HP/TQ increases, they are typically around 5%-7% at peak rpm ranges…….guess what, 5% is a standard deviation even amongst mfg dynos and if you go to this link http://www.fordracingparts.com/downl...ceTechTips.pdf the engineers at Ford racing have a article on just exactly how these “tuners” play games with the hp/tq ratings, how calibration can cause misleading dyno results, & some of the “tricks” that are used to gain supposed power increases . IMHO, if you live near any major city there are excellent tuning specialists with dynos who for the same price (if not less) will tune your vehicle taking into consideration your specific needs including environmental conditions, for your specific vehicle. IMHO, the best bang for the buck!
If you are comfortable and understand how to tune a vehicle, you can also do this yourself. There are several software programs available, that “Speak Common English” that will allow you to tune your vehicles ECM. One company is HP Tuners, they have a website….they offer two core programs, one for those who are doing dyno tuning and one for the home-garage mechanic (which is priced at about the same as most of the “canned tunes on the market) …this version limits the span of adjustments as a safeguard against doing something outside of the oem scope……basically, keeps you from doing something “too stupid by accident” (grin) and Sniper Delta Force Tuning Software. They also have adapters through affiliates for burning chips for pre-obd vehicles- but you must have an understanding of how/why you are adjusting fuel mixture and ignition timing.
2 ½” diameter straight pipe 521
2 ¼” diameter straight pipe 365
2” diameter straight pipe 283
2 ¼” diameter tailpipe 268
2 ¼” round glasspack- no louvers 274
2 ¼” round glasspack- with inward punched louvers 133
2 ¼” round glasspack- inward punched louvers/installed backwards 141
2 ½” inlet/outlet Dynomax SuperTurbo 268
2 1/4” inlet/outlet Thrush CVX 260
2 ½” inlet/outlet Flowmaster 2-chamber 249
2 ¼” inlet/2 ½”outlet Cherry Bomb turbo 249
2 ¼” inlet/outlet Flowmaster 3-chamber 229
2 ¼” inlet/2 ½”outlet Maremount Super C (OEM Replacement) 149
2 ¼” inlet/2” dual outlet Maremount 183
2 ¼” inlet/outlet California Turbo 229
2 ½” inlet/outlet Hooker Aerochamber 324
2 ½” inlet/outlet Hooker MaxFlow 521
2 ¼” inlet/outlet Maremount Cherrybomb Vortex 298
2 ½” inlet center/outlet offset Borla Turbo 373
I have listed here a muffler shootout test done by CAR CRAFT:
DynoMax Race Magnum 528.64 cfm
Thrush Magnum Glasspack 507.40 cfm
Summit Fully Welded 343.38 cfm
Flowtech Afterburner 342.20 cfm
DynoMax Super Turbo 333.94 cfm
Hooker Competition 232.46 cfm
Hooker Super Competition 320.96 cfm
Summit Turbo 331.16 cfm
Thrush Boss Turbo 297.36 cfm
While there are mufflers that will out flow a glass pack design, it also depends on the design. Does the glasspack use "louvers or perforations" - Louvers reduce the flow by as much as 50% but Allied resonators (that sell for $20-$40) each and available at any muffler shop) in independent test flowed 90%+ of a "race spec muffler". Others using other brands consistently showed similar results.
With regards to the CAI......
Testand Corporation conducted an ISO standards test on automotive air filters which can be viewed at this link: http://www.dieselbombers.com/chevrol...ting.html...in summary, it is all BS as far as performance gains. What many view as an issue (is the plastic intake tube with its noise canceling design) actually increases air pressure. It is the same hydraulic concept used by fire fighters creating water supply where psi is low. By having the air cross the path at a 90 degree angle, the pressure is increased proportionally. Fire fighters use what is called a “4-way valve” or “Blake Valve” at the hydrant where the water is cycled through the fire engine (pump) and sent back into the valve crossing the water flow at a 90 degree angle. In this case it also acts as a sound canceling device! At low speeds, this can reduce the flow a tad (which is what most “feel”), but in terms of peak hp/tq, a good high flow filter is all that is needed.
With regards to "Tuners"- . It was (and still is) very important that a person verifies that the “Tuner” is ASE certified in both ECM and Transmission programming and IMHO be have current certification by the OEM whose vehicle you want to modify. There are plenty of persons who advertise their programs to be the best and even offer custom tunes, but in all reality, very few actually have credentials in these areas- but that’s not to say that some of these “geniuses” haven’t really caused damage to a few vehicles- just jump over to flatratetech.com and read just some of the comments from the MSE techs!. Perhaps what is equally important is the parameters that can be adjusted are set by the OEM vehicle software…so there is really no “magic” in what they are doing anyway. The only reason for the “custom” program to support the CAI is because the design is poor resulting in false readings from the air intake sensors, etc….period! If you look at the dyno charts from many of these supposed HP/TQ increases, they are typically around 5%-7% at peak rpm ranges…….guess what, 5% is a standard deviation even amongst mfg dynos and if you go to this link http://www.fordracingparts.com/downl...ceTechTips.pdf the engineers at Ford racing have a article on just exactly how these “tuners” play games with the hp/tq ratings, how calibration can cause misleading dyno results, & some of the “tricks” that are used to gain supposed power increases . IMHO, if you live near any major city there are excellent tuning specialists with dynos who for the same price (if not less) will tune your vehicle taking into consideration your specific needs including environmental conditions, for your specific vehicle. IMHO, the best bang for the buck!
If you are comfortable and understand how to tune a vehicle, you can also do this yourself. There are several software programs available, that “Speak Common English” that will allow you to tune your vehicles ECM. One company is HP Tuners, they have a website….they offer two core programs, one for those who are doing dyno tuning and one for the home-garage mechanic (which is priced at about the same as most of the “canned tunes on the market) …this version limits the span of adjustments as a safeguard against doing something outside of the oem scope……basically, keeps you from doing something “too stupid by accident” (grin) and Sniper Delta Force Tuning Software. They also have adapters through affiliates for burning chips for pre-obd vehicles- but you must have an understanding of how/why you are adjusting fuel mixture and ignition timing.
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I love my AirAid!! I have had since my first F150, a 2004. Traded it in for my 2008 and works alot better with my 2008. The AirAid and the AirForce One are the two intakes that i know of that wont make a lean ratio. Mike Troyer told me this. As far as the gotts, a buddy of mine has done it to his truck and he seems to like it....pretty sure cuz it only cost like ten bucks! The vibration would drive me crazy! But yeah if you need a tuner...5startuning.com Mike Butler is one of the nicest guys i have spoken with! I have even left him a voicemail and within 5min, boom he calls me back! He only recommend LongTube Headers for our trucks due to the fact that our trucks do not like the high rpms....as he put it " They aren't a spinner!" Real nice guy!
As far as short tubes, Mike told me that on our trucks, ( 07 to 08) have a sweet manifold anyway, he said they wouldn't be worth your time due to the fact that they only benefit at high rpms and unless you change your shiftpoints (w a tuner ofcourse) your hp increase (maybe 5HP?) will be right before it shifts anyway, no fun! he said the longtubes will benefit at low rpms where our trucks prime power is! Call the guy! he will call longtubes a "Man Headers!"
My 03 5.4L was bone stock when I first got it and I added pacesetter LT's, no cats, 3" ORY pipe and a 18" maganflow and a custom 93 octane tune from MPT and noticed a nice difference in performance. Worth the money IMO,plus my truck sounds alot better.
Last edited by SJP1809; Jan 28, 2013 at 07:43 PM.
That setup deserves a video clip!








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